So as mentioned in a previous thread I had a mess of basically two trucks in one. 81 drivetrain 86 body. I6 carbed, NP435, BW1350 Ford 9in rear...

The trans that came with the truck was busted so got a new trans and got it put in by a shop, clutch too because we are stupid, tore it up trying to put it in with no lift and barely enough jacks.

So i got it back yesterday and they said that the trans would not go in gear. I thought 'this was exactly what happened with the other trans' (it was stuck in 3rd) but this one is in neutral. Its the clutch linkage. the rod that transfers the twisting motion from the pedal to the fork is sheared almost in two.
I think its twisted so much that its not engaging the clutch fully. Are there replacements for this or would i be better off twisting it back and welding the hell out of it?
(the threads are showing because its being removed)

 

The shop did not see this when they did the job?
I think I would look for a good one, new or used would be ok.
To get the twist right might be hard.
Dave ----

 

Don't you hate it when you pay someone to do a job only to find you would have done it better yourself?

I don't see how anyone replacing a transmission would have missed what you show in those photos, but I think you found your problem. As for a resolve, you may be able to twist and weld that bellcrank back together, but it would be better and easier to replace it. Probably a salvage yard item, but you may find a new one.

On not being able to place the transmission in gear, is this with the engine running and the clutch pedal depressed? Does it slip into gear with the engine not running? If so, it's likely because of a failure of the clutch to disengage, likely caused by that broken and twisted bellcrank. Also looks like the pivot bolt is not fully seated. Possible there are other linkage related problems as well. There is only so much you can show in a single picture.

 

bolt isn't seated because its being removed.
I told the shop that the trans needed to be installed correctly, and that was it. I didn't tell them to do anything further Because 75$/hr labor. the trans goes into first really good when the engines off and the clutch is pressed, but it grinds if the engines on. (also there is barely any pedal at all and the pedal doesn't return)
how in the hell do i get to those two top bolts on the bracket that holds the bellcrank on the frame? I appreciate the Quickness of the response!

 

Replacing or repairing the cross-shaft will fix both these problems, (you will still need to adjust the pedal freeplay). Welded properly, the tube would be fine, if it's not rusted out.

Was the pedal extra hard to push before you replaced the clutch? It's strange that the tube tore like that.

 

I saw that pivot bolt also but thought he would have seen that so I said nothing.


Yes do check the rest of the clutch linkage from the pedals right down to the fork. My 81 F100 when pulling it apart I found where the rods go into the flat steel the rods & flat steel holes are no longer round. I also found the pivot ***** not round also so if I was to replace the plastic bushings, there were none when I took it apart, the new ones would of broke and fell out.


I hope my parts truck has good parts and if not I will weld up the holes & rods, drill new holes and grind the rod back round. The pivot ***** I would buy new if I could other wise weld & grind too.


As for the frame pivot think once you have the motor pivot & cross bar removed you should be able to get to the bolts from under the truck. On mine the body was pulled so easy to get to.
Dave ----
Dave ----

 

Title should be '81-'82 F150 4x4....

Because Ford installed hydraulic clutches in all pickups starting with the 1983 model year.

Gary has a writeup from before he saw the light with his ZF swap.
Pivots are available.

 

It's an 81 drivetrain with an 86 body. Two separate VINs. Got the bell crank out , twisted right and welded together
I have a good pedal now, but I have another 1000 problems. The starter act as if the battery is dead, but we had it jumped from my ranger. I guess it'd be the solenoid. But I also have a mess of a wiring harness with a couple of wires arcing. It is holy hell. Two different trucks.

 

Pics of said mess.
Does anyone sell harnesses? ( low cost )
This thing is a toy, so not wanting to spend much more than what I've already put in..... seems an oxymoron. ...
Sorry for the upside down pics, uploading from the phone

 

OUCH!
Yes me thinks its time for the EVTM to fix the wiring.
Good luck
Dave ----

 

iPhones will do that...

I don't see how an EVTM is going to help when you have two completely different years.

And I was lead to believe it was near impossible to put an '86 pedal assembly in an '81, so I would have thought the inverse impossible as well.
But I've never tried it, so I'm learning something too!

It looks like an interesting project.

 

Well get one for each year, look over books and truck to see what you have year wise and go from there.


Would have been easy to just take everything from the 86 and move it over 81 then again could say everything from 81 to the 86 body and just deal with the clutch setup?
Dave ----

 

Bought it like this. Have no idea how it happened. They made it work, i think, but there are wires everywhere, and I can't really figure out the wiring diagram in the haynes manual. But I do think the starter may be going on it. Also how is the starter grounded?

 

Starter should be grounded thru the body of the starter to the bell housing/motor.
Batt neg side to motor and motor to body.
On my 4.9 the cable goes from batt to frame cross member and then to 1 of the starter bolts.
Dave ----

 

On the I-6 the battery ground cable connects directly to one of the starter bolts.

The schematic in the Haynes manual is next to worthless.
Get the Ford factory manuals. (EVTM & repair shop manual -body, chassis, electrical)