I too use the pcs tcm1000. Other than driving around town or some type of road coarse racing I don't see the advantage of the manual buttons. Your shift issue seems to be in your tune. That controller should be dead nutz on the shifts. That or you may have trash in your valve body causing it to hang. If you can send me a copy of your tunes. Humphrey169@gmail.com. if you don't mind

 

The issue has a lot to do with my loose converter. I'm staging at 3000 RPM. So it slams 4000 very very quickly. I need to get converter lock right out of the hole and then everything should be fine. I think i have that now, i just need to go test it. I was locking up on the 1-2 shift, but if i hit 1-2 and converter lock at like 15 mph it would fall off the turbo. So i was trying to find the sweet spot to stay on the turbo and not stall the turbo, but i kept ending up tapping the limiter.

So next thing is to try locking 1st and then shift 2nd at like 25 or 30 mph.

 

Could you lock first at say 80%tps then unlock at the 1-2shift lock mid 2nd then stay locked for the rest? The unlock at 2nd might get up back on top the turbo but may be too slow in the long run. What fluid are you running in the tranny? I run John Deere hyguard because it's thicker and lowers the stall. I' down to a 2600.

 

im using Shaeffer's fluid. That's what Brian wants in his transmissions, so that's what it gets. I havent seen a way to do what you're talking about in the PCS, but if i can get it to stay on the turbo after locking in 1st, it wont have stall issues with the 1-2 shift. The reason for the stall issues before was TC lock and the 2nd gear shift drops the RPMS so much at one time and i need it done relatively quickly since im leaving at 3000 RPM. So it would drag the RPMs way down. Dennis is suggesting that i lock the TC at 3-5 mph. I was a bit afraid to break the trans the first time, so i tried to lock at 15mph and that was too high. It ended up running just like it was before. So next time I'll command lockup at 5mph and pray for the transmission. The transmission is supposed to be a full billet everything BTS, but i bought it 3rd hand, so i have no verification that it really is billet everything. Lol

 

How does Brian deal with the warranty on something like that? That'd be my worry!

 

i dont know, but im guessing the same as any other company when you're racing. I cant expect much from him if it does break since I didnt buy it from him and i am beating the hell out of it. Lol

 

When I bought mine from suncoast it was a no warranty deal competiton tranny. Plus they said at 1000hp I should be checking clutches every 6 to 7 passes. I burnt 2nd gear on the very first hook. Cheaper to buy a book or to and learn how to work on it then send it back all the time

 

My BTS trans has been in a triple turbo sled pulling truck for like 10 hooks, then a different guy's 600hp daily driver for a few years and now my truck for the last year. I made about 50 passes in it last year at the track, spent some time in Mexico, and i put 4000 miles of very hard street driving on it so far. I cant complain one bit about Brian's transmissions. This thing has seen hell and is still here. Lol

 

Great thread!!! How is the truck doing currently?

 

The truck is still alive and well. I haven't been racing much since my last update, but I have put quite a few street miles on it and ironed out a few more little bugs. I've been saving money for a house and shop and the NHRDA is gone, so racing has been on the back burner. What racing I have done was mostly 1/8th mile, so it hasn't gone any faster yet.

My A1000 fuel pump failed on me a year or two ago. Marty's told me they had started running into issues with them, so they set me up with a Fuelab pump. When installed that, I wired the pump up with a Hobbs switch so that it runs at low speed all the time until I get over 20psi of boost, then the hobbs switch triggers a relay for the pump to go to high speed. So far that's working well.

I put billet aluminum rear hubs on it with Wilwood brakes as well. IIRC that dropped around 115lbs off the back of the truck. I don't remember if that was done last time I updated the thread.

I got past some wiring gremlins on it as well. The headlight switch had failed and I ended up finding a short to ground behind the radio as the root cause. Not sure how it took 14 years of me owning it for that to happen as that radio wiring was done by the previous owner. I also had some strange charging issues and melting of fan wiring, so I totally rebuilt the fans with new motors, controller, etc. I also got with Mike Singer at Singer Alternators to get a 270 amp alternator that will keep up. All is well now and the charging system holds anywhere from 14.5-14.9v regardless of what I have running.

I have started sourcing parts to put AC and heat in it again and parts to swap to grey interior. I have the dash, everything behind it, hvac box, etc. I just need time to do all of it. I think this one is going to go back to full street duty at some point and I'll build a race car down the road.

Here's a few pics to from the last race it was in and some other random stuff since this thread was updated last.

 

Glad to hear it's alive and well. Pretty cool converting it back to a street truck. Thank you for the update. Those breaks look really nice. Interesting deal on the fuel pump also. I run Marty's Walbro kit on my truck, and so far it's been good besides a ground issue. Just now getting around to the clutch. Need to go back to my thread and look at your recommendation again lol.

 

lol

Those pics in the snow
kids texted me when it started
Not very often you guys get any of that!

 

What sort of power level are you working with again? What are you going to do with it? Big one to consider, do you want to be able to rev it up and drop or slip the clutch out for burnouts or sled pulls or anything like that? Or will you drive it fairly normal? Meaning take off normal and only really give it a lot of power once the clutch is fully engaged..

The snow day was something. I took it for a good drive that day. A lot of 4 wheel drive rolling burnouts were done. 😆

 

Hey, when at the track are you running 4wd or no?

 

Power is probably between 500 to 550. Would like to do a little of everything besides sled pulls. Been looking at this one. It leaves room for more power. It is my daily also. Thank you for your input again lol.South Bend Clutch 94-98 Power Stroke - 650hp (SFDD3250-5) (riffraffdiesel.com)