In the coming months when the weather in Oregon dries up a bit I'll be going into the valve train of my motor. The vehicle it's in is an '81 Ford E-150. Over the course of the last few months it has developed a ticking noise that I recognise from my old SBC solid lifter days. The motor was a rebuilt crate motor from about 10 years ago and as I recall the rocker arms are held in place with nut and stud, rather than the bolts I'm used to on SBC's. Early on with this motor there was a squeak eminating from No. 6,but a change of rocker arm took care of that.
Luckily I've got a TSM for this application and I'm hoping that it'll serve me well despite the information contained therein being over 30 years old. As I get down to it I'm intending on posting photos and such showing my progress for any others that may get into this and I hope for those of this forum that are well versed with the Ford valve train will bear with my ignorance and my earlier references to SBC's

 

If you're getting in there, it may be time to swap the rockers with the Chevy 6 rockers. It actually gains about 5-10hp in the mid range(even on a 1bbl carb). There's my Chevy reference.
I actually got my power steering pump & bracketry from an 81 E150...in Albany. I lived there half my life.

 

That a great tip Dale, Thanks! I'd like to keep this critter as stock as I can.... motor wise and from a mechanic shop chief (formerly working at Wilson Motors Ford, he thinks I'm looking at mushroomed top pushrods. Still down to 37* in the mornings here so I'll keep running her 'till May most likely... Unless I can finalize my Jeep.

 

I really doubt it's a mushroomed pushrod. More likely a lifter. If it is a pushrod issue. It's more likely a bent push rod or a plugged up one that isn't getting oil to the rockers.

Another thing to check is the rocker stud itself. They are just pressed in. I have seen a couple that a stud started to work it's way out.

 

The same shop chief reccomended that I ran Risilone through it and drive it for a few days (22 miles eash day), then change the oil and filter. Accomplishing this and there was no difference. It was then he thought I should look at the pushrods. Once I get into this I'll be taking photos and such. Thanks for your insights, nevrenufhp and fordman, this is my first time tearing into a 300.

 

Check into a shop manual procedure where, with the engine in the necessary positions, you use a lever type tool on the rocker to compress the oil out of the lifter then you measure the gap between the rocker and valve stem. There is a Max/Min clearance allowed. If not in spec, there were .060 longer and shorter push rods to correct. Your engine should have tapered rocker studs and nuts with inside taper and they were tightened to a torque and no adjustment. Earlier 240/300 engines used straight studs and locking nuts to position their lifter plungers. You would set these with engine running like SBC.

 

Thanks IICAP, I have the TSM (printed by Ford) for this van. It's just the doing of this procedure that I'm unfamiliar with. I've been into Chevys and my Jeep but not a 300 before. Lacking the $125 + /- clams for that tappet bleed down wrench tool, I think I'm going to have to get creative. Maybe remove the distributor and bump start the motor to force drain the pumped up oil?

 

I'm going to second the bent pushrod hypothesis.

 

As the jeep is coming to fruition, I'm hot to get to the bottom of this annoying noise. I'm going to put fresh batteries in the camera. post progress and summarize an epilogue when I finish.