1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Vacuum advance & PCV valve project

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  #31  
Old 02-10-2016, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 1972-34ton


Not my machine, but I hope this helps.
Hockey stick? I'd say a fat 'U' with a 90 degree bend, and two different ends.

Does anyone have this particular P/N?



Interesting reading on Hoses:

How Well Do You Know Hoses?

By Sam Bell | February 2010 | Motor
Download Motor PDF from this



Notice the center, fat port behind the carb. This is the PCV entrance 'under' the carb, into the heated spacer (if you have one). Pure vacuum here, so make sure there are no leaks into it.
The hockey stick shaped hose is used with a 90° PCV valve.

Yup, that's my engine compartment.

Here is a more updated and improved with Edelbrock's E-Street EFI on the same engine.... Note that I had to reverse the PCV system where the valve is on the driver's side..:

 
  #32  
Old 02-10-2016, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by irishredcoat
Sorry HIO, I tend to jump around, lol. Ok, I left the vacuum advance where it was per your recommendation, I was wondering about the PCV hose going to the carb. I added a pic, I put it on the top nipple, is that correct? There is a larger nipple just below, it has the two hose clamps on it, what is that for and should it be capped? Thanks for taking the time to help me with this HIO, you and the others are teaching me so much!!
With the all thermostatic choke parts missing the carb is sucking air into one of the twin holes that are side by side just forward of the rear carb mounting bolt. It's the unthreaded one. If your going find a choke assembly you can just plug, a golf Tee works good. I'm sure you can make a little round wood dowel of some sort.
It's hard to see if it's plugged now or not
Orich
 
  #33  
Old 02-11-2016, 10:11 AM
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Local Autozone /pepboys has generic PCV hoses and elbows in the Help section .
Made my PCV for under $10
 
  #34  
Old 02-12-2016, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by irishredcoat


Ok, so put it on the lower nipple? the hose I have wont fit it, it does however fit the PCV valve perfectly. I read that having it connected to the carb could foul a cylinders plugs, i dont know, thats too advance for me right now.
The PO ( previous owner) obviously hog poged this together to sell it. Looks like the intake manifold/carb spacer and the carb are off different vehicles. That's why there is a PCV hose nipple on the carb and the spacer. That carb is missing ALL the choke stuff. Even the linkage up to the choke flap and the flap itself. Plus 2X Orich. In your pic you see those two holes right next to each other on the side of the carb where the choke assembly would be? They are on the raised boss. The upper one is threaded to help retain the choke assembly and the lower one is not threaded and should be a vacuum leak. You prolly here a hissing or whistling noise when it's running. With it idling plug that hole with your finger and see how much better it runs. Do you have a local PNP (pick N pull) junk yard? Get yourself a used carb to score that stuff. Now on the PCV system. Your local parts store will have a rubber cap to replace that Mickey Mouse hose,bolt,and clamp set up. So you have the PCV hooked up to it's vacuum source OK. What did you do for the other side of the system? The PCV air supply side. Above you mentioned knocking out one of the knock outs in the base of the air cleaner and just shoving a hose in there. NOT cool. The engine will now suck in unfiltered air. Here's a little known fact that that same PNP can help. Back in the 70's there was a 90 degree bolt on hose nipple on the back of the Ford smog pumps. Same hose size as a PCV system. Same EXACT part that was supplied with many Chrome open element air cleaners back in the day. It's part number was D4TZ9C475A but nobody has any on my locators. Get one at that PNP. Bolt one of those to your air cleaner bace and hook up the PCV air supply to it. From the other valve cover to that nipple.
 
  #35  
Old 02-12-2016, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
The PO ( previous owner) obviously hog poged this together to sell it. Looks like the intake manifold/carb spacer and the carb are off different vehicles. That's why there is a PCV hose nipple on the carb and the spacer. That carb is missing ALL the choke stuff. Even the linkage up to the choke flap and the flap itself. Plus 2X Orich. In your pic you see those two holes right next to each other on the side of the carb where the choke assembly would be? They are on the raised boss. The upper one is threaded to help retain the choke assembly and the lower one is not threaded and should be a vacuum leak. You prolly here a hissing or whistling noise when it's running. With it idling plug that hole with your finger and see how much better it runs. Do you have a local PNP (pick N pull) junk yard? Get yourself a used carb to score that stuff. Now on the PCV system. Your local parts store will have a rubber cap to replace that Mickey Mouse hose,bolt,and clamp set up. So you have the PCV hooked up to it's vacuum source OK. What did you do for the other side of the system? The PCV air supply side. Above you mentioned knocking out one of the knock outs in the base of the air cleaner and just shoving a hose in there. NOT cool. The engine will now suck in unfiltered air. Here's a little known fact that that same PNP can help. Back in the 70's there was a 90 degree bolt on hose nipple on the back of the Ford smog pumps. Same hose size as a PCV system. Same EXACT part that was supplied with many Chrome open element air cleaners back in the day. It's part number was D4TZ9C475A but nobody has any on my locators. Get one at that PNP. Bolt one of those to your air cleaner bace and hook up the PCV air supply to it. From the other valve cover to that nipple.
Ok, HIO had a link on one of his posts for the part your describing Air Cleaner Breather Tube Fitting
I will order that, as far as the carb goes, I called the mechanic I used a couple months ago and he said his guys wouldnt have removed it, I am sure someone didnt come up and steal it, I am going over to his garage today to ask him to just return the part, hopefully this guy has some honor. I will plug the hole for now until I get the parts back or salvage some, I will need help with putting it back together and any adjustments so advice is greatly appreciated. The air cleaner hose is a tight fit but I can see your point, so as soon as I can I will assemble it correctly. I see that you were helping me on another issue I am working on, my connection to my coil and the odd voltage reads, I will update that one too later. My truck is a nice truck, it just got mickey moused by someone who thought he was building a hot rod, I want to get her running right and then I will start upgrading, but first things first. Ok, I will report back
 
  #36  
Old 02-12-2016, 11:40 AM
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Many guys remove the choke butterfly & shaft when there for all out street/strip racing so the PO may have done it. Since he was a kind of a hot rodder.
Orich
 
  #37  
Old 02-19-2016, 01:15 PM
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So i took her out last Saturday to go Barstow and she will only do 70ish on flat highway, I only have a 3 speed but IU thought it should at least get up to 90, she does good on hills about 65, and downhill she got up to about 80ish. Is this normal? I suppose she is made for hauling so speed is not an emphasis, just curious if there is something I could do to get a little more go.
 
  #38  
Old 02-19-2016, 03:14 PM
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Don't "outrun your headlights" so to speak. Is the rest of the truck (brakes, steering linkage, suspension, shocks, tires) good to go @ 90 ? Maybe, I dunno.

What gear ratio you runnin' in the axle and/or what RPM does the tach say at 70 mph.
 
  #39  
Old 02-19-2016, 06:03 PM
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I'd check the carb linkage, work it by hand and see if your getting full throttle when it's opened up the butterflys all the way when you have it floored.

Orich
 
  #40  
Old 02-19-2016, 07:46 PM
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Keep in mind your truck is as aerodynamic is a barn and drag increases exponentially.
 
  #41  
Old 02-19-2016, 07:49 PM
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You shouldn't insult barns like that!

Rich brings up a good point, make sure the carb butterflies go perfectly vertical, no more no less when pedal is floored.
 
  #42  
Old 02-20-2016, 02:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
You shouldn't insult barns like that!

Rich brings up a good point, make sure the carb butterflies go perfectly vertical, no more no less when pedal is floored.
2X Orich and Ted. A couple days ago when I built a new throttle link from gas pedal bellcrank to the raised carb I put an old alternator on the gas pedal pushed to the floor. Up against the back side of the brake pedal. Opened up the carb all the way and adjusted that new throttle link to fit perfect.
 
  #43  
Old 02-22-2016, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by orich
I'd check the carb linkage, work it by hand and see if your getting full throttle when it's opened up the butterflys all the way when you have it floored.

Orich
OK, so I manually work the throttle at the carb or push the pedal in the cab? I will look for butterflys straight up, I will take some pics too.
 
  #44  
Old 02-22-2016, 01:40 PM
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Holley Tune, Part 1

This is a good overview on carb setup and tuning.
 
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