Yes but I am not sure what you are trying to say with that statement.

 

EGR tube on my engine is supposed to be one piece right? Found mine in two pieces when I removed the EGR valve. There was a sleeve so to say at the separation where the upper part of the tube was slid onto. My first and several attempts at pulling vac on the valve appeared to feel like the diaphragm was stuck so I removed the EGR valve to play with it on the bench. Got the diaphragm moving but not holding. Not sure if vacuum is not holding because of bad connections. Heading out to play with that now. Thanks again for your time.

 

EGR tube is one piece. They frequently break where it turns into an "accordion"

 

Not what I wanted to hear, but thanks for the reply. It was a clean seperation at the lower end of the "accordian" There for I questioned it. It is real ugly at the connection to the exhaust manifold. I determined that the egr valve was bad. It must have been stuck previously. It took quite a few pumps to get it moving, then it finally moved, but would not hold. I think it is original, truck has about 197,000 on it. Even if it tested good I was leery of putting it back on.

 

A little update. I replaced the egr valve but not the tube yet. I think I can cobble a "temporary" repair on that tube until this spring or summer when I am hoping to replace the exhaust mainfolds. Now when I had the EGR valve off I started the truck several times. Went ahead and installed the new egr valve. Unknowingly left the key on so the next morning dead as a door nail. Threw a charge on it and got no start. Had a new distributor on standby so I decided to install it. A little premature but the previous PIP code made me do it. Installed in same position as previous one. No start. Checked for spark at No. 1 and none. Started the trouble shooting with this tutorial Part 1 -Ignition Coil Test -No Spark No Start Tests (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L) So far it is looking like I have a bad ICM or PIP sensor. Ignition coil is getting 12 volts but not switching signal. This leads to possible culprit as PIP or ICM. Do not believe it is the PIP sensor as I installed the new distributor (Carquest) at this time. Have to pick up some components from Radio Shack tomorrow to finalize testing to determine if it is the PIP or ICM. I will be pulling the PCM also to take a peak at its' condition. Found a Motorcraft ICM at O'reillys. They had one listed for my truck but it didn't match the part number on mine. Gave him the numbers and he didn't show that part number existing. He pulled up another make ICM and cross referenced to the Ford number I gave him which led him to my Motorcraft ICM. He then looked that up and found that ICM which was not listed on their website but they can order it. Turned out that this one is about 30 bucks cheaper than what they had listed for my truck on their website. Will keep you posted.

 

Many part manuals have the wrong ICM listed for these trucks. Be aware they may send the wrong one. What number did they order?

 

I haven't ordered it yet Randy. Tomorrow or the next day I will pull my ICM and post the part number along with the one they said matches. We are getting some severe winter weather today and tomorrow so I won't be working on the truck. Will follow up asap. Thanks.

 

Note your 96 truck takes the Black ICM. If they try to sell you a gray one it is the wrong one as most look-ups are wrong as pointed out above.

You can ask the parts place for a ICM that fits a 1995 Mastang with a 5.0L engine and they will give you the right one.

Did you unplug the PCM Computer and see if the spark returned?

 

Yes I unplugged the PCM looked the connection over connected it back up, without tightening the screw, tried to start it, no pump kicked on. Tightened the screw, got pump, no start. Thanks for that info Subford on using the 95 Mustang. Just to clarify that was a 5.0L? Would be the same as my 5.8L?

 

Motorcraft DY1077 - Ignition Control Unit | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Here it is. I believe this is the one he pulled up for me cross referencing the part # on the ICM for my truck. Can even find it a bit more less expensive on Ebay. Will keep you posted. Thanks.

 

According to my sources that is the correct ICM.

 

Yes for the 1994 and newer all of the engines from the 4.9L (300) to the 7.5L (460) all take the same remote mounter Black ICM. That includes the 5.8L & the 5.0L.



Did you leave the PCM computer unplugged when testing for spark or did you just loosen the screw?

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PCM was plugged in screwed down tight whole time I was testing for spark. I only unplugged it after not getting switching signal to coil using a test light according to the tutorial I posted. Thanks for the pictures.

 

You should leave the PCM Computer completely unplugged until you have spark.

 

Have you watched this video yet?

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