New Wheels and questions about fitment
#1
New Wheels and questions about fitment
Hi Guys,
I am selling my 2015 Platinum rims on my Excursion as I am not too comfortable with running spacers. I know hub-centric is the way to go for my new rims, but I am told not many manufactures make them. I would like to stick to a similar style of rims as the OEM ones which I found:
KMC XD795 Hoss Gloss Black Machined Wheels XD79529087812N - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
According to the website, these rims are not hub-centric like most aftermarket rims. Hub bore is 125.5, -12 offset, and a 4.53 backspacing. I will be running 275/65/20 tires
XD79529087812N 20" x 9" 8x170.00 -12 4.53 GLOSS BLACK W/ MACHINED FACE 125.5 3200 lbs $305 464K131-2
Several questions for you guys:
From internet searches, I understand 4.93 inches (125.22 mm) is the hub bore size of my 05 Excursion. Since the new wheel will be 125.5 with a difference of .3 mm, could this wheel be considered hub-centric? I assume I will know when I use either my stock lugs or acorn style lugs. But given the minor difference in hub bore size, wont' the hub rest on the wheel like the factory oem wheels?
With the -12 offset and 4.53 backspacing, and tire size of 275/65/20 will I experience any rubbing of the leaf springs?
Will this combo stick out from the fenders?
I appreciate any help as I plan to purchase these rims this weekend.
Thank you!
#2
Hi Guys,
I am selling my 2015 Platinum rims on my Excursion as I am not too comfortable with running spacers. I know hub-centric is the way to go for my new rims, but I am told not many manufactures make them. I would like to stick to a similar style of rims as the OEM ones which I found:
KMC XD795 Hoss Gloss Black Machined Wheels XD79529087812N - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
According to the website, these rims are not hub-centric like most aftermarket rims. Hub bore is 125.5, -12 offset, and a 4.53 backspacing. I will be running 275/65/20 tires
XD79529087812N 20" x 9" 8x170.00 -12 4.53 GLOSS BLACK W/ MACHINED FACE 125.5 3200 lbs $305 464K131-2
Several questions for you guys:
From internet searches, I understand 4.93 inches (125.22 mm) is the hub bore size of my 05 Excursion. Since the new wheel will be 125.5 with a difference of .3 mm, could this wheel be considered hub-centric?
Measure the inside of your factory OEM wheels.
$1200.00 plus tires?
#3
#4
Yes they are pricey, however on eBay, perhaps being optimistic, looking at completed (sold) listings, the 2015 OEM wheels with tires sell for 1800-2400. I hope to sell somewhere in between there. Plus I could sell my spacers, I haven't pulled the wheel off to see, but I plan to sell as a package. The wheels came with the truck so I didn't lose any money per se.
Out the door the package with XD wheels and tires is about 2300. I don't think that's a bad trade-off to getting wheels that "fit" the truck without spacers. I'd end up with a better tire with a 50k warranty and again a wheel not utilizing a spacer. I know Fred makes great ones, but would not like to go that route.
Thanks for the input! That really helps. The 275/65/20 tire diameter says they are about 34.1 inches. What tire size are you running?
#5
I'm replacing those with some 35x12.5 as the 295's are somewhat hard to find. They should fit no problem.
I forgot to mention...I have a 4" lift
#7
Hi Guys,
I am selling my 2015 Platinum rims on my Excursion as I am not too comfortable with running spacers. I know hub-centric is the way to go for my new rims, but I am told not many manufactures make them. I would like to stick to a similar style of rims as the OEM ones which I found:
KMC XD795 Hoss Gloss Black Machined Wheels XD79529087812N - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
According to the website, these rims are not hub-centric like most aftermarket rims. Hub bore is 125.5, -12 offset, and a 4.53 backspacing. I will be running 275/65/20 tires
XD79529087812N 20" x 9" 8x170.00 -12 4.53 GLOSS BLACK W/ MACHINED FACE 125.5 3200 lbs $305 464K131-2
Several questions for you guys:
From internet searches, I understand 4.93 inches (125.22 mm) is the hub bore size of my 05 Excursion. Since the new wheel will be 125.5 with a difference of .3 mm, could this wheel be considered hub-centric? I assume I will know when I use either my stock lugs or acorn style lugs. But given the minor difference in hub bore size, wont' the hub rest on the wheel like the factory oem wheels?
With the -12 offset and 4.53 backspacing, and tire size of 275/65/20 will I experience any rubbing of the leaf springs?
Will this combo stick out from the fenders?
I appreciate any help as I plan to purchase these rims this weekend.
Thank you!
Whose spacers are on the EX now? Are they hubcentric? Steel or aluminum?
Many folks have had excellent service from the very good hubcentric spacers from Fred, both steel and aluminum. You just have to make sure that they are installed correctly.
What is you concern with them? Will you be towing heavy?
I tow very heavy regularly (almost all of my EX's miles are towing these days) and back when I was looking to upgrade to bigger rims/tires our heavy towing (11,000 lb TT) lead me to search out a set of the OEM '04 18" rims rather than later model ones that would need the spacers.
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#8
Whose spacers are on the EX now? Are they hubcentric? Steel or aluminum?
Many folks have had excellent service from the very good hubcentric spacers from Fred, both steel and aluminum. You just have to make sure that they are installed correctly.
What is you concern with them? Will you be towing heavy?
I tow very heavy regularly (almost all of my EX's miles are towing these days) and back when I was looking to upgrade to bigger rims/tires our heavy towing (11,000 lb TT) lead me to search out a set of the OEM '04 18" rims rather than later model ones that would need the spacers.
Many folks have had excellent service from the very good hubcentric spacers from Fred, both steel and aluminum. You just have to make sure that they are installed correctly.
What is you concern with them? Will you be towing heavy?
I tow very heavy regularly (almost all of my EX's miles are towing these days) and back when I was looking to upgrade to bigger rims/tires our heavy towing (11,000 lb TT) lead me to search out a set of the OEM '04 18" rims rather than later model ones that would need the spacers.
I am not quite sure if they are steel as my truck is the shop getting bulletproofed. I love the look of the OEM rims now, but still do not prefer using adapters.
I hear Fred does make great adapters which are hub-centric and people haven't had any issues, other than install related (e.g. not ensureing wheel makes complete contact with adapter). Besides my preference not to run adapters, the tire shop I use to service my tires/rotations will not work on my truck with adapters. Not a big deal, but I rarely have the time to do these simple tire rotations and/or getting them balanced every 5k miles. I get all my tires from for 3 of my vehicles so I prefer to have them do it.
I tow only about 5500-7k TT and carry 8 people. Not much compared to yours. When it comes down to it, it's either pay 700 dollars for quality Fred Goeske adapters or come out even by buying new rims/tires and selling my OEM's. But then again the issue of lug centric vs hub centric comes into play with aftermarket wheels. I think I am overthinking everything.
#9
To answer the question about the .3 mm gap.
No, the flange is not carrying any of the load like a hub centric wheel would if there is any gap. The gap could .3mm or 3 feet doesn't matter. in fact if there was no gap and you used tapered nuts the likely hood of failure would be considerably higher since the 2 methods of alignment would be at odds with each other.
Lug centric rims are acctable to use if you understand what the issues are and do some periodic maintence or at least insist the tire shop does the proper maintence when you get new tires. Hub centric is theoretically stronger but the real advantage is that they are harder to screw up by lack of maintence or improper installation.
The 2 biggest issues with either style are.
1. Proper torque and peridiodically retorquing
2. A clean corrosion, paint or powder coat free matting surface between the face of the hub and the mounting surface of the wheel.
No, the flange is not carrying any of the load like a hub centric wheel would if there is any gap. The gap could .3mm or 3 feet doesn't matter. in fact if there was no gap and you used tapered nuts the likely hood of failure would be considerably higher since the 2 methods of alignment would be at odds with each other.
Lug centric rims are acctable to use if you understand what the issues are and do some periodic maintence or at least insist the tire shop does the proper maintence when you get new tires. Hub centric is theoretically stronger but the real advantage is that they are harder to screw up by lack of maintence or improper installation.
The 2 biggest issues with either style are.
1. Proper torque and peridiodically retorquing
2. A clean corrosion, paint or powder coat free matting surface between the face of the hub and the mounting surface of the wheel.
#10
To answer the question about the .3 mm gap.
No, the flange is not carrying any of the load like a hub centric wheel would if there is any gap. The gap could .3mm or 3 feet doesn't matter. in fact if there was no gap and you used tapered nuts the likely hood of failure would be considerably higher since the 2 methods of alignment would be at odds with each other.
Lug centric rims are acctable to use if you understand what the issues are and do some periodic maintence or at least insist the tire shop does the proper maintence when you get new tires. Hub centric is theoretically stronger but the real advantage is that they are harder to screw up by lack of maintence or improper installation.
The 2 biggest issues with either style are.
1. Proper torque and peridiodically retorquing
2. A clean corrosion, paint or powder coat free matting surface between the face of the hub and the mounting surface of the wheel.
No, the flange is not carrying any of the load like a hub centric wheel would if there is any gap. The gap could .3mm or 3 feet doesn't matter. in fact if there was no gap and you used tapered nuts the likely hood of failure would be considerably higher since the 2 methods of alignment would be at odds with each other.
Lug centric rims are acctable to use if you understand what the issues are and do some periodic maintence or at least insist the tire shop does the proper maintence when you get new tires. Hub centric is theoretically stronger but the real advantage is that they are harder to screw up by lack of maintence or improper installation.
The 2 biggest issues with either style are.
1. Proper torque and peridiodically retorquing
2. A clean corrosion, paint or powder coat free matting surface between the face of the hub and the mounting surface of the wheel.
I have found lots of lug centric options out there, but with how heavy the Ex is, I am leery of this option...
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