Machine work is not complete yet but looking at $2500-$3000 for: cleaning, magnafluxing, boring and honing, one cylinder has to be sleeved, crank polish, block and head surfacing, cam bearing install, rod resizing, checking main and cam line bore, head work, and complete rotating assembly balanced. Some of that my not have to be done so final price may be lower. Like I said I'm trying to make sure this rebuild is as good or better than stock.

Parts to rebuild engine including: coated pistons, new valves, injector cups, complete gasket kit, bearings, water pump, low pressure oil pump and all the little items= $3200.

Upgraded parts or parts not necessary for stock rebuilds but for longevity and reliability include: welded jets and bolts, riffraff intake plenums, hpop lines, new lifters, new injector hold down bolts, better push rods= $1200

I'm also doing up pipes and 4in exhaust at this time which is another $650.

Then I figured in another $1000 for misc items, like a new belt, hoses, coolant, a couple oil changes, new block heater, lost bolts, and beer. I like to err on the side of caution.

So 3000+3200+1200+650+1000= $9050

Now, you could most definitely rebuild one cheaper than this but I want to make sure everything is done right and nothing is overlooked or done on the cheap. I don't want to have to worry about the engine for the next 200k miles except for normal service.

 

I was noticing the cryo'd forged rods for $500 are used - where new ones would pop $3000 just for that. Used looks good to me, as long as they're straight. I want the welded jets, but I think I'll stick with stock push rods and valve springs - I'm going no higher in power than I have now.

Oh... Cody talked me into keeping my current sticks. I'm calmed down a bit, thanks to everybody's encouraging words here.

 

Bottom Line, I'd rather take out a loan for 10k, and build an engine that will outlive me, than remortgage my house for a new truck.

 

Very good point.

 

Following up on the Blackstone, the analysis may show normal or high normal ranges for bearing wear. It's more likely you have an issue with a piston or ring package that wouldn't necessarily show up on the Blackstone. I would do the analysis regardless unless of course you're ready to move on with a fresh motor.

 

I'd do the springs Rich, even if you go stock new. Remember they have lots of miles. But that's me. And at that point it's probably cheaper to up grade them. Keeping the sticks is what I'd do to. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

I should clarify - new stock springs and pushrods. I know a lot of people are big fans of 910 competition springs (which need to be shimmed) and fancy pushrods - but I'm not going over 35 PSI boost and pushrods are a "fuse" of sorts when things go wrong with the valve. I'll take a bent pushrod over total valve crash any day... not that it would be a risk any time soon on a remanned motor.

 

...............

 

I don't think you can go wrong taking the route Cody suggested if required once you determine the vib cause. Hopefully it is only a harmonic balancer or other less expensive fix. I understand the scarcity of time though and it runs out on us continuously. If we could only slow it down to get more of it when it suits us.

 

I added a video to the first post in this thread.

While Stinky doesn't do much in the driveway (by way of making obnoxious noises and shakes), I made a recording. Idling isn't bad - but driving brings out the worst in him. I have a video of before the shaking began:



And this is the idle after the violent shaking began on the road.



I don't know how much can be picked up and conveyed by way of camera microphone, YouTube, and computer sound systems... but this is not a good demonstration of the problem. I posted it only because I could faintly hear some of the knocks that grow very loud when driving. I should also mention the EGTs skyrocket on the passenger side if I get on it, while the EGTs on the driver side stay normal. I would never see that if I didn't have dual EGT gauges.

 

The 910's do not need to be shimmed. Stock springs are 71-79lbs on the seat at the factory installed height of 1.833". The 910's provide 99lbs at the same height. For $80, I would put them in.

 

I have many, many respected sources telling me the 910s need to be shimmed because they are a slightly different height than stock. I have absolutely zero experience to say why your respected input is different from the other sources. I don't suppose somebody has a spec sheet on those? I may need to call Clay and ask about this because it could be one of those internet lore things.

 

I can say based some research and specs direct from comp:

Base install height: 1.850" Maximum Coil Bind Height: 1.280" Inside / Outside diameter: 1.354" / 0.940 Spring Rate: 415 lbs

Install height : lbs 1.900" : 72 lbs 1.850" : 92 lbs 1.800" : 113 lbs 1.750" : 134 lbs 1.700" : 155 lbs 1.650" : 175 lbs 1.600" : 196 lbs

That said, what I haven't done is measure both side by side. But I don't have an issue as in my case, I will dim them a little on install. Stock pushrods aren't needed for normal rpm ranges.

 

With factory installed heights and 910's seat pressure would be about 81lbs from that chart. You would have to have an installed height of 1.77" to get 99lbs. That is why I think it is usually recommended to use .015" shims. The other issue is all springs vary a lot, as I have measured factory springs and I haven't ever seen high 70's.

 

That makes perfect sense to me... I'm gettin' all smart-n-stuff. That explains the discrepancy in the information I've seen on this.

Now the big question: By all rights, wouldn't shimming the stock springs on an aging truck be a viable youth elixir?