Hello all,

I have a 1977 f150 4x4 (4 speed) on 33's


I want to tow this truck to the desert behind my ford 30 foot class A rv, the rv has the triton v10..

Can I flat tow my truck behind an rv? Has anyone here done it? I can make a simple towbar and what not.

I'm just worried about how heavy the truck is, my hitch on my rv is very very stout. The trip will be about 8 hours of driving.

Any input?

 

I don't really have any experience towing a vehicle long distance, but I've always been told to remove the driveshaft so there's not a risk of burning up the transfer case and tranny. But it seems like you're more worried about the extra weight behind the RV? Here's a simple solution: Attach truck to RV with towbar. Get your buddy to sit in the truck and drive the truck, to help push the RV Just tell him to pay close attention to the brake lights

 

The key to towing is to minimize rolling resistance. Tires, driveline components, etc. are all working against your RV. A trailer can mitigate many these factors but if that's not an option, look into disconnecting all driveshafts and skinnier, lower tires/rims. Fortunately, gas is cheap right now but there's still the wear and tear on your RV to consider.

 

Flat towing will not damage your truck. If it had an automatic, then it definitely would.
What I would double check is the towing capacity of the RV. It is not as much about the engine's pulling capacity as what the frame of the RV can handle. They already have a lot of weight from the RV body, so there is not much capacity left for the trailer. My parents had an RV and the towed weight maximum was ridiculously low and that was the manufacturer's answer.

 

With the transfer case on in neutral the truck itself can be safely towed. The transmission will not be spinning. Keys would be an adequate tow bar and the capacity of the RV. That is a lot of weight and most tow bars seem made for lighter vehicles.

Also, as mentioned, RV frames near the rear can be pretty light and a full size PU is heavy and no brakes. Agree consult the RV manufacturer. Personally I would prefer to put it on a trailer... especially with the big tires. If things get squirrely the trailer will handle better. An intermediate step would be a tow dolly with brakes. I would prefer that over flat towing.

 

I towed my 2 wheel drive with auto, 9 hours when I bought it. I took the driveline off and it towed great.

 

What transfer case do you have? Some transfer cases shouldn't be flat towed long distances and at highway speed without first removing driveshafts.

 

Figure out your RV towing capacity. Does it have a trans cooler?
Get a better hitch, like a class 4 or 5 frame mounted receiver hitch for the RV, if it has the towing capacity in the 1st place.
Make sure your home built "simple" tow bar is up to the job.
X2 on a trailer with elec brakes is way simpler and safer.

A Cautionary Issue on Towing
Improperly flat-towing (pulling a vehicle not under its own power) any vehicle with the NP435 transmission can cause the very prompt destruction of third gear bore and its mainshaft journal due to insufficient oiling.

If you must flat-tow, and have a transfer case, you may set it in full neutral and place the NP435 in any gear to prevent main shaft spin. However, note that many transfer cases themselves do not allow for flat towing.

Preferably, you may wish to disconnect the rear drive shaft.
We have seen and heard of a few incidents of this over the years, the worst of which producing a complete friction welding of third gear to its mainshaft.

This is one of the only quirks of the 435, and easily avoidable.