Thanks for the follow up, look forward to your lifter change job.

 

As to the question about lifter noise with the delo 20-50. Yes. Not near as long in duration and did not seem as loud.
A friend and old car buff suggested changing the lifters figuring it would be pretty easy in this engine (he is a Chevy guy) or take that recently rebuilt 240 out of my project truck and stick it in my daily driver and either make repairs on this engine or find a 302 for the "fun" truck - I might know where one is for a reasonable cost. He thinks we could do the swap out in a weekend.

 

I'm not really into spending your money for you, but would be nice to know if the lifters resolved the problem. Have you had the valve cover off and had a chance to see what kind of sludge or build up there might be on everything? I have not had a lifter apart in probably 45 yrs and if memory serves me ( I know I'm slipping) there would be a spring and a check ball. I just keep thinking about gum and varnish in them all. What ever you do, lifters or swap, it'll be nice follow your saga. Thanks for keeping us all informed

 

Now this begs the question. What do I need to order to replace my lifters?

 

Lifters, valve cover gasket, side plate gasket all from Napa, a manual or find the info on adjusting the rockers to position the innereds/plunger of the lifter to it's optimal position and a WHOLE LOTTA PATIENCE. There is usually a build up on the lower part of the lifter body that doesn't travel up and down in the lifter bore. Using a small vise grip to grab the lifter at the top ridge just above the clip that holds the lifter together is best way for me to work the lifter up and down trying to get that build up off. Some carb cleaner sprayed around the lifter may get down and loosen some of that build up if just the visegrip wont get them out. If you do the job, try get a cam lube to put put on lifter bottoms. The motor oil needs to be one with that Zinc additive in or you may wear the cam lobes or lifter bottoms.

Because I'm writing this, it has just occurred to me. WE NEVER asked you if you ever adjusted the lifters? Yes, the early 240-300's had straight rocker studs with lock style nuts and you need to position the lifter innereds/plunger . Later engines used studs with a taper and a nut the had a inner taper and you just tightened the nut all the way till it stopped. If there was reason to you could use a .060 longer or shorter pushrod get the plunger where it belongs.

Well guess that's more food for thought. Nothing wrong with trying to adjust what you have, you'll have to do it with the new lifters. There's more to say on doing it or the procedure is in manuals.

 

IICAP, no adjustments made. Have not touched this engine, except to replace valve cover gasket, spark plugs, carb and I think the fuel pump. Probably tackle this project this weekend so I can get it in the garage. Since I got rid of my Mustang, this truck and my Harley are my main rides. Wife won't give up her 2016 Explorer to me - says she has no desire to try to drive the 69 without power steering. When the 71, with the auto trans, power steering and power disc brakes is road worthy again, she will drive it if she has to (:

 

If you have any interest at all in a 300 for that '71 instead of a 302 I could make you a deal on a short block and some other goodies.

 

Would it improper to simply:
1. pull the valve cover;
2. remove the adjuster and rocker harms;
3. remove the push rod cover;
4. attempt to pull the existing lifters with a magnet;
5. if successful, coat replacement lifters with appropriate lubricant;
6. drop in new lifters;
reverse process from there. Initially tightening the adjusters to finger tight and the torqueing to spec.

 

Did you try adjusting the lifters in there now? Your gonna have to adjust the new ones when you put them in. They're not just plug and play.

In order of your list
1-OK
2-You get a 2X4 and drill 12 holes a little bigger than a push rod, unless you have a push rod, rocker, ball, lifter tray already. . Mark the first hole #1. Then as you remove the first push rod it goes into #1 hole and you put the rocker and pivot ball over the push rod. You want all going back where they came from. You'll want to clean all and inspect for wear.
3-OK
4-Good luck, maybe the lifter gods will be with you.
5-OK- Some let lifters soak in motor oil, even over night
6-A-OK
6-B- There is a procedure for adjusting the lifter plunger depth you have to do. You don't torque anything on these earlier engines. They have a locking nut that stays where you put it. You can tighten to much and the valves might stay open. You can do a engine running final adjustment, a bit messy with oil, you might want clips that set on rocker to prevent oil from spraying all over
6-C- Do you have a manual that will cover this? If not I'll try to explain to you.

 

I have the factory manuals for engine and frame. Have read up some on it via the internet, but not spent a l of time with the manual on this issue. Will take a look at tonight. I verified my advanced auto stocks those lifters in the even I do attempt this project.
This find this thread on the topic of adjusting the lifters.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...r-install.html

 

Yes and you see I commented. You can do that with the lifters dry, BUT, you have to be sure you tighten the one turn after there is zero clearance between the rocker and valve stem. Do without the side plate on.

If you take a new, dry lifter and push down on the plunger till it bottoms, then let go, the plunger will spring back up to the retaining clip. The plunger needs to be against the clip at zero clearance between the rocker and valve stem. Then when you tighten the adjusting nut down 1 full turn you will move the plunger down to the correct position it needs to be. Remember 2 engine positions, one with #1 at TDC and you can adjust certain rockers and then with #6 at TDC you can adjust the other rockers. If you take the push rod and and roll it back and forth with your thumb and index finger, it will roll effortlessly, as you tighten the nut and you get to zero clearance, the will be some resistance to rolling the push rod. Just after realizing the resistance is when you tighten 1 full turn of the nut.

Lets go back to your existing engine and why you want to adjust the existing lifters. After all these years of age and wear, the cam lobe(s) may have worn some, the bottom of the lifter may have worn, the push rod ends, the push rod cup, half ball and mating surface, face against the valve stem on the rocker, the valve stem. All caused by use, poor oil change habits, the use of latter day oils that don't have additives for flat tappet (lifter) engines. The only thing compensating for this wear, is wear between the valve face and seat which will allow the valve stem to come higher up in the head. So now you have a lifter with a plunger that is up against the clip and as the wear continues, you lose zero clearance a tick or clack begins. As the engine warms up and all this metal expands the noise will/may go away, until wear is enough that even expansion does not cover the slop.

So now adjusting what you have. Try to get a set of clips to cover the oil holes in rocker to prevent oil spraying all over. I think heard once some one tried spring type clothes pins, not sure on that. Bad enough is the oil will run to rear of head and spill off and onto engine and ground, consider this.
With engine completely warmed up, remove valve cover. Using 3/8th ratchet and deep socket, I think 5/8ths. Start at #1 rocker, loosen the nut 1/4 turn at a time till you hear the lifter clack. Let it clack 15-20 seconds, the plunger is up against the clip, now tighten down the nut JUST till the clack is gone. That would be close to or at zero clearance. Now turn the nut down 1/4 turn, the engine will shake real bad, for you are holding the valve open. After say 30 seconds or so the engine will smooth off again. Now do this 3 more times and you will have tighten the nut 1 full turn from zero clearance and the lifter/ valve is adjusted properly. Do it to every rocker.

Not much more to say, those are the procedures. Just note that ALL the push rods allowing oil up to the rockers. Do it just so you know you can and maybe you don't need to relace the lifters

 

I've never given a rocker nut a full turn, maybe 1/2 and a 1/4 turn is usually okay. Most new hydraulic lifters only need .020-.050" preload.

Before you remove the rockers I suggest removing the side cover and checking for a bent pushrod. If all the pushrods are okay, close the side then crack the valve cover and check/tighten the rocker nuts in sequence. Can't hurt before you start replacing the lifters.

 

Sounding like I need to find me a correction for my issue sooner rather than later. The clatter is louder for a short while then subsides. Also, I noticed last night while running errands, the lifter tick-tick would return after warmed up for short periods of time. However, the early sound is definitely more of a clatter.

 

A number of us suggested how we would set lifter pre-load. What was the final procedure you chose? Without totally rewriting about adjustment procedures again. "I" would do the "warmed up, engine idling" adjustment once more. I will make a concession here about how many 1/4 turns down on adjuster nut. I said Four as per the service manual. I concede to Three, 1/4 turns. Loosen adjuster nut until clack, tighten 1/4 turn wait for engine to smooth off and one more 1/4 turn wait for engine to smooth then a final 1/4 turn and make sure engine returns to smooth idle.

Does your truck have a Oil Pressure Gauge. What is pressure at hot idle?

IF, readjustment resolves problem and after a week or two you get noise again, you may have a lifter bottom or cam lobe wearing.