as I said above, I have given up and had to have my truck towed to a shop that specialized in Ford trucks. the shop was great and fair and treated me well.
so the final cause of my crank but no start was the wires to the IPR were shorted out against each other as he said the insulation gets brittle and with the heat had disintegrated the insulation. they install a new IPR harness from another good used harness he had. but the truck still would not start, faulted to to low or high pressure readings. the then installed a test solenoid to see if the shorting had caused the coil in the solenoid to short. and it did, the test coil worked and the engine started with good and proper oil pressure readings. I got out for less than $250. I am happy and pleased that although they were booked out over a month, the tested and found a solution easily and quickly. FYI fault codes were as follows: P1280-IPC circuit, P1211-ICP <OR> than expected.
so If I had the proper reader at the time, at least I would have save myself a lot of time and pain researching and testing. I now as of today have the Torque system on my phone and the BSFX reader arrived from Amazon today. so next time I am prepared.
and again THANK YOU TO ALL WHO RESPONDED FOR MY HELP.

 

Glad to hear it's running again! And, $250 isn't too bad either. Sounds like that is a pretty decent shop.

 

Thanks for getting back and reporting what was wrong.

 

I was impressed by this shop, and I will be putting in a report on Angie's list about them. I will be returning when I have the money to have them fix the fuel leak under my filter/injection pump area, it not real bad but enough that it smells of diesel and leave a small puddle under my engine area. I have check to make sure it is not my filter drain, its not. been told the pump and filter housing need to be removed and replace all the rubber lines that run under them. I assume they are return lines, as I do not have a hard starting issue like loss of prime like my old 6.9 used to do.

 

Where are you located?

 

Your truck doesn't have an injection pump. That's a simple two-stage fuel pump, and yes, it's prone to leaking. The lines are also common leak points, as is the fuel filter sensor in the fuel bowl. You don't need to remove the pump or the bowl to replace the lines, but removing the bowl, or at least unbolting it so you can move it around, helps. Best way to pinpoint the leak is to get it totally dry in there, then spread baby powder or baking soda in the valley, then run the engine a bit. The white stuff will stain directly under where the leak is.

 

20 Miles North of Eureka Ca. on the coast just 80 miles short of the Oregon border. in the heart of the Redwoods.

 

thanks, for the above. and a few years ago this would have been very helpful, but with my currant disabilities, I am unable to do this any longer. I will have to have some one else do it. and that just kills me. as my brain is able, but my body no longer is able. I need a body transplant, or at least a spine.

 

your welcome, I know someone else could have this issue and may help them. the shop I went to said this is a common issue with the wire insulation cracking off and shorting out.

 

well I need to update what was said earlier about the BAFX reader and the 97 F250 HD 7.3L trucks. I ordered the blue tooth adapter and downloaded the Torque tool for my cell phone. and watched it search all the protocols, and the J1850 PWM 41.6 is what is used to communicate on the OBDII plug. well it does not. further research from http://obdclearinghouse.com/document...997fordobd.pdf, that the EEC-IV PROTOCOL96-97 WITH OBDII PORT is the correct protocol, now I need to find a tool that reads this. I am only out $29. from amazon so I will just keep it, I think it will work on my Highlander. will see. I like the application.

 

Did you get Torque Pro, or just plain Torque? IIRC, there's a difference, and only Torque Pro works. The thread on the "Nation" I mentioned above has more detail about that.

 

A no I did not, as they said use the free one first to see if it works and the upgrade for some more parameters it will do. its only $4.99 for the upgrade. and I am in it this far, I will pay for the upgrade and find out. and advise. thank you.

 

I use a BAFX Bluetooth adapter on my 1995 F250 7.3. The one I have is older and has a blue label instead of black.

I use Torque Pro with mine. It works good once I figured out the right combination to get it going.

With mine I turn the truck key to run. Then open Torque Pro which is setup to start the Bluetooth on my Android phone. After a few seconds it gives me a pairing request which I put in 1234. Then I go back to Torque Pro and in another few seconds it shows that it is connected. I then open the page I created with my gauges setup.



Here is a shot of my Torque pro going down the interstate at 70 MPH.

I have also used the BAFX adapter with Car Gauge Pro to run an injector buzz test on this truck and another 95 7.3. I have to fumble with the Car Gauge Pro to get it going because I don't use it as often.

When I first started using the Bluetooth adapters I had a lot of trouble because I had a different Vtech Bluetooth adapter and I think the Torque program was getting confused which adapter to use. I think if you even use a Bluetooth headset then your phone can get confused as to which Bluetooth to use.

Kevin

 

^^^^ I sure wouldn't want to see the results of a monitoring program connected to a bluetooth headseat on my head....

 

thank you, I just downloaded the pro version and it did say it does support more vehicles than the lite version, but did not say just which ones. will go try it in a few. I did do some fixed for what you were talking about getting confused by which blue tooth to use. you can go into the settings and tell it which device to use. I will let you guys know later today how it works.