1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

86 F250 dying at idle

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  #61  
Old 06-26-2016, 08:37 PM
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Ctubutis, thank you again for helping out. I'm gonna trace that wire down and test it.

I was hoping by swapping harnesses, I'd fix the issue. No such luck.

The computer should be correct for the truck. It's an advance auto purchase though. I've tried swapping computers on it with no change in issues.
 
  #62  
Old 06-27-2016, 12:25 PM
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Old 06-30-2016, 08:55 PM
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Got to do some testing on the truck today.

Got 11.9 volts on the IDM wire at the plug going into the ICM.

Tested resistance of the IDM wire at the plug going to the computer and the ICM plug. Got 20.6K ohms.

Drove the truck about 3 miles down the road and back. The truck drove fine, but smelled like it was running extremely rich and idled a little rough.

Read codes again, and the only code it threw was 41 KOER, system pass on both KOEO and CM.

I'm a little new to testing electronics, so I'm including a picture of what I had the tester set to to read resistance to make sure I had it right.

Thanks to all!
 
  #64  
Old 07-01-2016, 01:23 AM
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I assume you have a single wire on your new Oxygen sensor? Make sure you have a good ground to where ever your O2 sensor is connected to engine and body grounds. O2 sensor only outputs when engine is at full operating temp.
 
  #65  
Old 07-10-2016, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by redbayredneck
Update again: Timing mark goes counterclockwise with the spout connector in place and moves as you rev the motor.

Truck is only throwing one code now: 41 KOE(always showing lean), showing system pass on KOEO and CM.

I think my timing might be off, I've heard it's possible for the timing marks to slip on the crank pulley. Is this really possible?
If you are still getting the Code 41, then replace your oxygen sensor, this will affect your idle if your ECA thinks the engine is lean all the time. When you replace this, add a ground strap from the rear side of the exhaust “Y” pipe bolt to the body ground. This will improve the very small voltage coming from the sensor to the ECA/Computer.

The reason they added the ground wire to the later model sensors was due to the bad ground path, due to gaskets, rust & corrosion. Less than $10 for a strap, or make your own (If you make your own, use solder at all crimp connections.)

Have you replace your plugs and wires?
 
  #66  
Old 07-11-2016, 10:05 PM
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I've replaced the plugs and wires.

Been driving the truck around a little and to work and back (5 miles one way) while running injector cleaner trying to see if that helps.

Truck has died on me twice, both times was while my foot was in the clutch and the truck was down to an idle. The first time was at a stop sign, the second time I was coasting to turn into my dirt road.

The truck does not throw the code 41 if I let the truck get to full operating temperature before pulling codes. But it does smell like it's still running rich sometimes.

I think what's causing the truck to die is it flooding out when returning to idle, but I'm not sure.

I've replaced the high pressure fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, and the fuel pump relay. (All done whenough the motor swap was done)

Still using original injectors, which is why I'm running cleaner through the system, and original low-pressure in-tank fuel pump.
 
  #67  
Old 07-11-2016, 10:07 PM
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I'll look into the ground wire idea, just to be safe.
 
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