I know, another EGR delete thread. But I'm looking for a kit and I can't think of who it's by. A guy that I know does several delete kits in his own shop for people on the side. He swears by the Sinister Diesel kit.

I told him that I had heard of another kit that seemed like it was better than the Sinister kit. Like really good clamps and flanges on the pipe, etc. The video that I saw highlighting the kit was on Youtube and I searched for it on here too but can't find it. Anyone know?

 

IPR Gen 2 delete

 

That's the one. Thanks. All I could find earlier pretty much was Sinister; nothing against them of course. I don't know why in the world I searched for hours for a video and part kits and as soon as you replied is when I found the video on Youtube.

I don't have any connection with the company or the reviewer but here is the video.

 

Yes indeed. The IPR kit is amazingly well done. We have it on our site if you are interested.

IPR EGR Delete Kit GEN2

After my non-IPR version leaked, I became an IPR believer!

BTW, while you are in there, consider changing out the bellows in your y pipe or just getting a different y pipe. That pipe likes to crack after an EGR delete if you stick with the factory bellows. Mine lasted about 18,000 miles before it did. 15,000 - 20,000 miles is pretty common.

http://www.ficmrepair.com/index.cfm/...rod/prd322.htm

Hope this helps!

 

I saw that IPR has a "Gen 3" kit now, but the description reads the same as the Gen 2 kit. Does anyone know what they changed?

 

I was wondering that myself. From what it looks like, there are 2 fittings on top of the piece to accommodate maybe an external coolant filter?

 

That was my take on it as well.
But, I think I'd be more comfortable using the full flow coolant filter in the heater lines so that blockage, should it occur, will prevent flow in the heater circuit and not the oil cooler circuit.
Even IPR states that their "preferred" method is full flow in the heater circuit where a small amount of coolant will bypass the filter when the heater is on and none will bypass it without the heater on.
I would not want to put anything that could become clogged inline with the oil cooler, if that is indeed what the Gen 3 kit does (basically running the coolant that would have gone through the EGR cooler through the filter. I would also much rather have hose connections not be in a PITA to reach location in the valley.
It would be interesting to hear IPRs thoughts on this.

 

Agreed, but that was all I could think of it may be for.

 

I sent this email to IPR:

"The description on your Gen3 EGR delete kit reads just like your Gen2 kit. What did you change? It looks like you added nipples for connecting one of your coolant filter kits. Is this true? Won't this put the hose connections in a hard to reach place? If the filter were to clog wouldn't this restrict flow through the oil cooler. I am strongly considering one of your EGR delete kits and coolant filter kits for my farm truck in the near future, but would like this info to help decide which set up I want. Thanks for your time."

We'll see what they say...

 

Nice, thanks for doing that.

 

I've read some stuff that the IPR doesn't allow for the same movement facilitated by the hose of the normal EGR or similar delete kits allow for and the vibrations can lead to cracks in the IPR welds

 

Right, like this?

 

I got the following response from IPR:

"You are correct. The nipples allow for a true in line 100% coolant filtration at the oil cooler exit port which will give you the most efficient filtration. The plumbing is much cleaner and simpler using the GEN3.
Your oil temps will rise slowly when the filter starts clogging up, you will see a gradual increase in temps and you will have time to service it. I personally like this setup due to the fact that you can actually see when it's time to clean your filter rather than to needlessly take apart your filter just to inspect for contamination. This setup is ideal for anyone who is monitoring their oil temperatures."

 

X2 😎

The IPR Gen2 kit is what I went with. Like Ed suggested, spends the extra $40 and get the new up pipe......you can order it as an add on to the kit.

 

Plus you can save $25 if you select one of the scuffed up models. So the overall cost is only $15 more for the new up pipe.