I was wondering about the bevel where it seals , if blow by would be dark in color and giving more fuel , sorry had to throw that one at cha

 

Subscribing.

Wish I had more than the "subscribe" for you Rusty!

 

How's this battle going

Good idea on an accessory belt can't hurt to check it

I saw the anomaly on your graph you talked about that's weird
Was all these graphs taken while driving or in parked driveway you know I'm old school load calc still seams way to high

That bullet next to the inject in case you need to put the truck down LOL

 

You mention the change in crank speed at the BBQ place it sped up and that seams odd for a load issue but kinda makes sense for a leak in the HPO system that the HPOP wouldn't have as much back pressure with a leak maybe that leak blew the oweing further out at that moment just guessing

Does crank speed sound normal again and smooth

Looks like some of your values were taken at 1500 RPM
If it was me I would take them again at the 2500 RPM so you can compare to that spec sheet


Did Ed say anything about atlas 40 changing load
One senereo in my mind to figure load is Rpm vs an inject pulse width or the amount of fuel needed to maintain said RPM but it just a half **** guess

 

I have some other stuff going on today but I hope to check the brakes our later. I did the spec sheet in the driveway in park. I was shooting for 2,500rpm for all of them but I don't have a high idle set op for that so it was just depressing the pedal. They should have all been pretty close.

The turbo clean up helped a little but I think that was a sepeate issue. I drove it to work most of the week and as I mentioned before it's sometimes worse than others which kinda screws up my thinking. I plan to check the harness Per4mance mentioned earlier and the connectors at the PCM as well as pull the belt and see what it does. With no power steering or water pump that will be a short ride! Probably won't leave my short driveway. If it's still messing up its off to the shop.

 

I read this thread multiple times and the numbers just look like theres a pretty good load on it at Idle and the rest numbers that are out of spec are just compensating for that load so taking the belt off should eliminate everything Except the HPOP and any internal engine problems


a Bad A/C compress comes to mind


Whatever is creating the load seams to let up the higher the Idle


Any blowby in the crankcase

 

and of coarse atlas 40 puts a twist to looking at the values but im guessing its not hurting anything


You didn't mention any metal shavings in the injectors when you tore them down so guessing the hpop spins ok


I hope you get this figured out cause a shop could get expensive fast with the amount of numbers out of whack

 

Glad your back Benny hope all is well, I think your on to something with Ac Compress and or pulleys , man Eric with out being in your shoes it a tough one any way to get a vid so we can hear some changes, hopefully before the Bullet hits the front fender

 

Hope thers some good news today

 

I wish there was but I didn't get to it at all this weekend.

 

I know how that goes

My truck needs another oil cooler and the usual round of front end crap

Right in the middle of house remodel

 

Brakes are fixed! Rear pads and only one rotor. Calipers looked ok. Glad that's off the list anyway.

 

Well, enough of this driving a wimpy truck. Camping season is here and I've missed a couple of trips already. I got an an appointment at a local shop for a diag. Lots of satisfied customers and plenty of diesel stuff in their parking lot. The girl at the counter says they can do an uncompensated cylinder balance test. That might show something. So far my list of stuff I've done looks like this (and what I've posted already with the PID's):

I got Ed to do my FICM w Atlas40, main was dropping to 45-46v occasionally.
Drove the truck with the exhaust disconnected.
Cleaned and inspected the EBP, tube, and harness.
Drove the truck with the belt off. (New belt did fix the squeak on shut down )
PCM has had multiple re-learns.
Passes a bubble test.
I've checked the fuel pressure with two different gauges.
New fuel filters.
New EGR valve.
I've pulled the turbo and cleaned it.
Replaced the map hose, cleaned the nipple.
I've driven it with the air filter off.
I've pulled the PCM connectors and cleaned/inspected them.
I've pulled the banjo bolts and checked for trash.

Went over several tests with FORScan today.
Found the injector buzz test (passed) thanks RWatson for pointing out what that was!)
Ran all the user initiated tests and found fails on many Cruise Control circuits. (P0565 through P0569), and another weird one. My TCM fails the Overdrive Cancel Switch once each time I restart the truck. It doesn't fail if I run the test again unless I restart the truck. Maybe that's a clue?

In addition to that, my ARPM PID (RPM desired) stays at "0" all the time. MFDES (Mass Fuel Desired) bounces around 14.000mg at idle and changes with the throttle position. RPM seems to read normally.

Just to be complete, in addition to that, I have codes for 3 glow Plugs (1,2,7), a B1352 ignition key in circuit fault, a P1832 4wd solenoid circuit fail, a P1876 2wd circuit open or shorted to ground, and an occasional B1483 brake on/off switch circuit fail that I think may be causing my Cruise Control Faults (yup, I do have adjustable pedals). A quick look under there didn't turn up any rubbing spots. The pedals seldom get moved.

So my question is, how to approach the dialog with the shop? Risk overloading them with a butt load of "what I've allready done" or just tell them it starts and idles very good but drives like it's dragging an anchor and fuel mileage is running 9mpg? I'm thinking option "B" and see what they come up with.

 

How about the throttle pedal sensor and assembly (I don't remember what it's called) that's under the dash, I had one go bad on my 02 and it ran kinda crapy. Just a thought.....

 

I agree rusty tell them is a MPG DOG and see what they come up with