My 92 f150 5.0 runs like kitting but about 3 months ago its has a intermittent problem it starts to acting like it is missing at idle and its shift real hard when it is acting up, it does it for a while then problem stops some times and then it is very hard to start and sometimes it starts fine, then about several weeks ago it die and took for ever to get it started again it want to die and missing real bad, I had to floor the gas peddle it would starts and then die but I was able to make home, come back few days later it started fine and rune fine for a day now it don't want to start don't matter what I do, it just cranked. I checked the fuel at the relief got about 50psi of pressure, pulled the plugs and checked for spark, have spark at all plugs when I turn the ignition on the fuel pump comes on but then cuts off like it suppose too after 1 to 2 seconds, I have good pressure on the fuel rail and spark. Check engine light is on when I turn on, but goes away when I start to turn over engine, I have tried starting fluid by the opening on the throttle body, still won't starts. I check the TPS it reads from .09v to 3.9V all do way open and a 5v input. also I unplug the the SPOUT jumper and it did no change anything.
Can anyone please help me I need this truck to get fire wood and I just about out... Socoro...por favor.

 

you should pull the codes

 

Advance do not have a code reader for this year truck, any suggestion?

 

they have told me that too but I have also seen them sell it. It is the only one that looks like this -
get it there, another place or amazon/ebay. You can also pull codes without that. In the "test" area about halfway down this page, turn key on and when you jumper pin 2 (SIG RTN) to self test input (STI), after about 10 or 15 seconds, the check engine light will flash, you count the flashes and those are the codes.

 

is this one ok to use?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/V1-5-OBD-II-OBD2-CAN-BUS-USB-Auto-Car-Diagnostic-Interface-Scanner-New-VG-IC1K-/161690173556?tfrom=161903915788&tpos=top&ttype=coupon&talgo=undefined

 

no, that is for ODB2, you have ODB1

 

Is the one you post from Amazon is that will work on this truck?

 

yes, the one that he posted a link to will work on your truck.
you can also pull codes without a reader quite easily ...Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test

 

Thanks Will Work it first thing in the Morning

 

I pull the code and I think it was 116 636 114

I did had the battery disconnected overnight


ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.


Transmission Manual Lever Position Sensor circuit out of self test.


ACT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.


I also pull the plug it was not too bad flooded but the sparks seams week

 

Why did you do that?
That means you lost the codes in CM that would have told you what was wrong.

The 114 and the 116 just mean that the engine was cold. You need to warm the engine before running the EEC self-test.

The Transmission Manual Lever Position Sensor circuit out of self test may be a problem and it may be bad but it is not related to the engine running problem.

 

The battery was dead and the truck is too far from the house to run a power cable

 

How can I tell if I am getting enough spark to the plug. if the pickup coil was bad it would not have any spark right?

 

How can I tell if I am getting enough spark and if the pickup coil is bad it would have any spark?

 

Well you do not have a pickup coil they were used in older trucks in the 1970's & 1980's.
No coil just an off and on switch in the distributor called a PIP sensor mounted on a stator.

The PIP sensor will not cause a week spark. A week spark would be caused by a low battery (low voltage to the Ignition system), bad Ignition coil or a bad ICM. You can also have bad secondary wiring or parts (cap & rotor) in the Ignition system.

You can use a spark checker to tell if the spark is week.