rats chewed through some wiring on my 2006 f350. there's a connector that looks like it has 5 wires going into it. this wiring harness lays directly on top of the wheel well in behind the battery on the passenger side of the truck. the attached picture is looking in the direction from across the valve cover over the glow plug module toward the inner fender well. It is also directly below the check valve (i think its called that but not sure) that controls the shift on the fly 4 wheel drive switch. See picture with white check valve. Taking a look at the pictures of my chewed up wires after peeling back the electrical tape covering, can anybody tell me what this controls and what required replacment connector I would need to order is called? Thanks in advance.
Zeus in AZ

I had problems attaching the pictures from my phone. If anybody could send me an email address that I could send them (3 pics) to and help upload them to this thread, I would appreciate it. Thanks in advance!

 

If it's the wires I think you talking about one of them is the
loop for the 2nd (lower) generator/ALT control.

Here is a good how to post photos to FTE >>> https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...he-forums.html

 

Sean,
Thanks for the reply. The 2nd alternator loop sounds possible. What I found strange was that the other side of the connector was "blind" meaning that wire did not continue on past the other connector half opposite the chewed wires. It did look like it might be some type of shorting plug as there is a wire coming out and Looping back into the connector. If I can get the pics posted from my office computer at work tomorrow, I will. My problem with the pics is that I can't pull them up from my phone's picture folder using the forums attachment "paperclip". It only gives the option to download from a computer file or from a photo hosting site url. It does not recognize them in my phone and I don't have a home computer and my laptop was stolen and not yet replaced. My phone is the only way I currently have to access the Internet away from my job. Hopefully, I can email the pics from my IPhone to my office and post them from there. I will give it a shot in the morning. Thanks again.

Zeus

 

There is a smart phone app. Can't say if it's any good on not. I's
not something I use.


But is sounds like you are looking at that plug.

 

*

*

Here is a few pictures of the chewed wires after peeling back the tape wrapping.

*

*

One picture is of the component that works with the shift on the fly switch. If this little white component goes south, and you're running the AC, when you switch to 4x4, the AC temp control goes from cool to hot and the blower changes to blow heat out of the defrost vents instead of cab dash vents) Don't ask how I know this LOL... I included this picture because the damaged connector is located directly below it on the top of the wheel well tucked as far in as it could be.

*

*

The other two pictures are just views looking across the right valve cover and over the glow plug module toward the fender at the chewed connector. It looks like it will be tough to splice this back together as there is not much left on the plug side of the break in the wires.

*

 

 

Later tonight I'll post you the diagram for that section.

 

Well, I spiced the two green/red wires together and isolated/insulated the other wires with heat shrink to simulate the connector plug. All is working well with the charging system once again. However, I still have an ocassional no start condition that began after swapping out my oil cooler and egr cooler with a Semi-Bullet Proof EGR package from Bullet Proof Diesel. A friend from the Vehicle Maitenance shop at a large copper mine did the work for me. He is a Ford Certified diesel mechanic and one of the areas well known "go to guys" who specializes in all the ford diesel engines. It was after getting the truck back from him and driving it for about 50 miles that the no start prob would occur once I shut the motor off. When he put his Snap On computer (which he claimed cost him $12k), he demonstrated to me the full range of tests preformed. All voltages were well within the desired specs with the exception of the ICP sensor and reccomended that I change it as well as the pigtail harness and then we would retest. It was during "a no start episode" that cranking motor killed batteries and I pulled them out to take to the shop and charge. My son was helping to re-install them when he noticed the chewed up wires and beginnings of a packrat nest being built. Now that that problem has been addressed and a new connector ordered to replace my jury rigged fix, the charging system is back to keeping the batteries charged. I still have the "no-start" issue after I drive the truck for an hour or so and turn it off. While it is running, it runs great! Full power, no hesitation etc. After I turn it off and try to restart without success, I can pull off the ICP plug and the truck will start. My mechanic tells me that my ICP sensor test bad and does not have the required 1/4 volt in the off position and its just running off memory. I plan to replace the sensor with a O'Reilly's auto parts aftermart sensor (the nearest Ford dealer is 60 miles away). I am confused on the parts they say are available and wonder if anyone's used them?? There is a substantial difference in cost and warranty duration. Their part # ICP-203 has a one year warranty and costs $169. The other is part # ICP-201 and looks the same but has a different name (fuel pressure sensor as opposed to Injection Control pressure sensor). The cost of the ICP-201 is only $39 and has 3 month warranty. Which is the one needed for my application to replace the ICP mounted on the front if the left valve cover? I have also been told that my no start could be from a clogged ICR screen or bad ICR. I'm not sure where its at but, I'm sure Murphy's Law will make it tough to get to.

Does anyone have any thoughts on the O'Reilly parts ICP-203 vs ICP-201?? Thanks in advance. Zeus

 

For the icp sensor I wouldn't try the aftermarket kind. You can get a Motorcraft OEM icp sensor on ebay for a very good price. http://m.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-OEM-Ford-F250-F350-F450-F550-6-0L-Diesel-ICP-Injector-Control-Sensor-/251572137235?nav=SEARCH

 

normally I would agree about the original equipment parts.however, waiting for something to come in the mail is not an option as I need my vehicle to get to work tomorrow morning.O'Reilly has the part in stock today. I just picked up the part and now just trying to find a wrench or socket big enough to remove it and give it a whirl. of course Murphy's Law says I've got the size above and below lol! anyhow in regards to the dDifference in part #s, turns out the ICP - 203 is for a 2003 and 2004 6.0 liter and the other one is for 2005 and up 6.0 engines. hopefully it works out I'll know in a few minutes! Zeus

 

Pull the ICP off and just run it that way. It will let you dive it and the
PCM will assume a default mode for the ICP. As for ordering the part
that should give you the needed time to get a real one and not a fake knock-off
made in China. For the best price for a real Ford/Motorcraft part I would give
Ed at FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts
a call and let him know you need it fast.

If it still acts up once the sensor and pigtail are replaced then you may want to
do an air test after you get it fully warmed up and see if there is a leak or not.
But that is if the problem comes back after the new sensor is in.

 

IIRC that sensor uses a 21mm deep socket. a 12" extension and you can go right between the hard A/C line there and remove it with ease.

 

Yeah, you were close. This one was 24mm and I got it out no problem. The new one from O'Reillys used a 1-1/16" or 27mm deepwell. Once it was replaced, the engine started right up and ran great during a 40-50 mile road test. The I cut off the ignition and tried to restart and it would not :-(
I unplugged the ICP and it started right up. Looking at the plug, it looks like its seen better days so I will replace it tomorrow when the one I ordered is delivered. I did get another ICP open code so hopefully the new pigtail will take care if it. At least it will get me to work. I just hope I won't have to pull all the turbo piping and stuff to get to the ICR if it doesn't fix it. My biggest fear is hoping I don't have a bad high pressure oil pump. I guess we'll just have to wait and see. Just in case the O'Reily part is bad again I will order a Ford part from a phx dealer in the morning. Thank Guys for the help and Ideas they are appreciated. Zeus

 

Okay, as a Ford dealer technician my two cents is the proper size for the ICP sensor is 24mm (or 15/16") on late 2004 and up engines, and 1-1/16" for 2003 to early 2004 engines. That said, the correct part number from Ford for the late engines is 4C3Z-9F838-A and for 2003 (and early 2004) engines is 3C3Z-9F838-EA. By your description, it sounds like you were given a sensor that fits the physical description of one intended for an early engine.

 

Did you end up finding out what this connector was called? I have the exact same issue.