1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Welding 101

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 01-27-2016, 09:29 AM
F-1's Avatar
F-1
F-1 is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Delray Beach, FL
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Welding 101

Can anyone suggest a suitable budget conscious welding machine for small sheet metal body work on '48 F1?

I see them 120v and 220v machines..Mig/Flux??

I also see pricey acetylene models..overkill?

I'm a first time DIY welder and have come to the realization that after weeks of prep work ( Youtube Auto body college) there are some lower fender areas that need new sheet metal.

Also..all of my fenders, truck bed, hood, running boards & doors are off the truck. I keep wondering which finish paint approach makes the most sense..
finish paint while they're

off the truck or after installation.
Painting after installation minimizes damage to the finish but prevents full coverage..what do you guys think. Thanks
 
  #2  
Old 01-27-2016, 09:37 AM
EffieTrucker's Avatar
EffieTrucker
EffieTrucker is offline
Phantom of the Phorum

Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Eastern Kentucky
Posts: 4,750
Received 859 Likes on 458 Posts
I think Ax makes some recommendations in his tutorial thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-practice.html

I'm a VERY amateur welder. After my old mig was stolen, I bought an Eastwood Mig 135, and leased a bottle of Argon. I've been pretty happy with it so far. (1.5 years)
 
  #3  
Old 01-27-2016, 09:48 AM
Connecticut Calvin's Avatar
Connecticut Calvin
Connecticut Calvin is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Simsbury, Connecticut
Posts: 774
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
For what it's worth I did all of my welding with a Northern Flux Core Mig and everything worked just fine. My wife bought it for my for Christmas in 2014. I think he paid maybe $120 or so. I see Northern no longer sells their own branded welders. But honestly this one below is pretty much identical to my own and it has great reviews. I'd buy it without hesitation. Perfectly suitable for your needs.

Ironton Flux Core 125 Flux-Core Welder - 115V, 125 Amps | MIG Flux Core Welders| Northern Tool + Equipment

Edit: I missed the end part of your inquiry. Sorry. I painted all of my removable sheet metal off the truck. I used blue painters tape on each piece so I didn't scratch any one panel when I reinstalled them. By removing the sheet metal it gives you the freedom of adjusting each piece for absolute coverage. You don't have that freedom when they're mounted. I don't know how a big shop would do it but it sure worked for me.
 
  #4  
Old 01-27-2016, 09:52 AM
52 Merc's Avatar
52 Merc
52 Merc is online now
Hotshot
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Burbank, WA
Posts: 13,909
Received 2,440 Likes on 1,390 Posts
Step up and get a small 110 unit that uses gas. Don't waste your time with the flux stuff. The weld quality will be inferior, and as a novice you'll be more frustrated with it than learning to do it right.

For painting, you can get a better job if you paint your parts in pieces. But if you don't have good help assembling, as noted, you do run into the issue of potential damage putting it together. Personally, I like doing it apart.
 
  #5  
Old 01-27-2016, 10:17 AM
c91x's Avatar
c91x
c91x is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 387
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Whats your budget?
 
  #6  
Old 01-27-2016, 10:26 AM
Jolly Roger Joe's Avatar
Jolly Roger Joe
Jolly Roger Joe is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Rockingham, VA
Posts: 6,599
Received 27 Likes on 23 Posts
If you want to buy a good new MIG, I would (and did) go with AXracer's recommendation for the Eastwood MIG 135. They ran a sale and I got it for $250. Their site shows it on sale now for $280, but they drop that lower on occasion.

MIG Welder | MIG Welders | MIG Welding ? Eastwood MIG 135 Welder
 
  #7  
Old 01-27-2016, 10:55 AM
gerrymoe's Avatar
gerrymoe
gerrymoe is offline
Laughing Gas
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Madera Ranchos
Posts: 765
Received 61 Likes on 41 Posts
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...incolnElectric

I know this unit is not in the budget minded person, but I have to say once you get started in this hobby you will find out the benefits of this unit. I have had a 155 Lincoln for 20 years now and absolutely am sold on it. I would recommend the Lincoln or the Miller equivalent.

The link won't take you to the actual mig without hitting a few more buttons. I tried not savy enough. Click on the link than enter K 2473-2 in the search window, than click on the 180c mig description the first one
 

Last edited by gerrymoe; 01-27-2016 at 04:33 PM. Reason: Can't get the link to work
  #8  
Old 01-27-2016, 11:24 AM
newguy399's Avatar
newguy399
newguy399 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: tinley park
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hey ax,
Have u ever used the thermal arc 181 multi process welder or the tweco 141 multi process..looking to upgrade in a month or 2. I think I want the benefits of the Tig to do stainless welding.
Thanks dan
 
  #9  
Old 01-27-2016, 11:49 AM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer
AXracer is offline
Hotshot
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 15,844
Received 53 Likes on 34 Posts
No hands on with either of these machines, but reading thru the specs, neither would be on my "buy" list. IMHO combo machines are not particularly good at more than 1 process (MIG in the case of these machines) and switching over is such a PITA that you are not likely to do it more than a couple times. Any shielding gas MIG machine is capable of welding stainless with a switch of shielding gas and wire.
again IMHO if you want both MIG and TIG capability you would be far better served with two dedicated machines such as the Eastwood 135 MIG and their TIG 200 for about the same money as the one combo machine with the needed accessories and have far greater capability (such as welding aluminum) without all the switch over hassle, altho once you get proficient with TIG you are likely to use it for all your welding and let the MIG sit in the corner.
 
  #10  
Old 01-27-2016, 11:50 AM
c91x's Avatar
c91x
c91x is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 387
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I think it comes down to what you need/want

If you ever plan on doing anything other than sheet metal or 1/8" look for a 220v machine

If all you want is to stick some sheet metal together and never use it again get a cheap chinese welder. Harbor freight, that northern tool welder

$500 gets you a Hobart 140 which is a good machine but still only 110v

Eastwoods quality has dropped over the last few years from what I've read on one of the welding forums. I do remember reading it was a copy of the lincoln 135

Newguy339 All of your multiprocess welders use lift arc since they don't have the room for High frequency arc. The ones i've seen don't even come with a foot pedal. They also never have features that are valuable to tig welding.
 
  #11  
Old 01-27-2016, 12:43 PM
49f3dls's Avatar
49f3dls
49f3dls is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Southern SC.
Posts: 2,203
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
I followed what Ax said in his tutorial. When I sold the F3 the buyer was surprised as much metal had been replaced when I told him all I did. I am NOT saying I am a good welder but following the tutorials the AX man posted and taking your time to redo it if it gets messed up works well. At least it did for me. Have fun
 
  #12  
Old 01-27-2016, 02:18 PM
Larryjr03's Avatar
Larryjr03
Larryjr03 is offline
Tuned
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 280
Received 9 Likes on 6 Posts
Originally Posted by F-1
Can anyone suggest a suitable budget conscious welding machine for small sheet metal body work on '48 F1?

I see them 120v and 220v machines..Mig/Flux??

I also see pricey acetylene models..overkill?

I'm a first time DIY welder and have come to the realization that after weeks of prep work ( Youtube Auto body college) there are some lower fender areas that need new sheet metal.

Also..all of my fenders, truck bed, hood, running boards & doors are off the truck. I keep wondering which finish paint approach makes the most sense..
finish paint while they're

off the truck or after installation.
Painting after installation minimizes damage to the finish but prevents full coverage..what do you guys think. Thanks
EASTWOOD mig 135. Get Argon bottle, avoid using Flux Core Weld Wire.
 
  #13  
Old 01-27-2016, 03:30 PM
newguy399's Avatar
newguy399
newguy399 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: tinley park
Posts: 337
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks guys I already have the bottle and Lincoln 100 HD. I will look at the eastwood stuff again, thanks ax as always u make good points
 
  #14  
Old 01-27-2016, 03:42 PM
c91x's Avatar
c91x
c91x is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Arizona
Posts: 387
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Originally Posted by newguy399
Thanks guys I already have the bottle and Lincoln 100 HD. I will look at the eastwood stuff again, thanks ax as always u make good points
Do yourself a favor and read the reviews and comparisons between the eastwood, longevity, AHP. I highly doubt you'll buy the Eastwood after that.

Also if you never plan to weld aluminum you can look for DC only machines and they are much cheaper
 
  #15  
Old 01-27-2016, 04:09 PM
Beechkid's Avatar
Beechkid
Beechkid is offline
Moderator
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Southern California
Posts: 5,776
Received 208 Likes on 160 Posts
IMHO, 1st, take a welding class at a local college.......learn temperatures, etc by starting with oxy/acet, then after you understand welding principles, then move on to a wire feed welder....IMHO, I would look at Miller.
 


Quick Reply: Welding 101



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:15 PM.