By the way...Thank you Alloro and Skauber for your help thus far!!!

 

Quick question...How easy should the tensioners move?? I can not get the upper tesioners to move by squeezing them either...But I do not know if this is normal??

Should I just go ahead and drop the $ on a full timing set with all the chains, sprockets, the oil pump & water pump while I'm into it this far....

Hate to lose my Freon and pull the intake but I also do not want to do this much work just to have to tear into it again in the near future!!

Also does anyone know what cam holding tool I will need for this guy?? I found a few for the 4.6 DOHC engine but does not list the navigator with the 5.4L DOHC....

Its the OTC 6498 kit...

 

The tensioners get compressed in a vise, so don't feel too bad about not being able to squeeze them by hand.

This far into it...I'd change everything I could. Tip, before removing the old chains, make sure all of the timing marks line up like they should during the reinstall procedure. With the chains off you cannot rotate the crank or camshafts without doing damage to the valves.

Here are the timing set procedures.

 

Thanks again Alloro!! The timing procedure you gave me are for the single overhead cam vrs the Dual overhead cam like I have..You dont have the one for DOHC do you? Thanks...

And I agree Im going to just go ahead and change all the parts I can while Im in there!!
I just was not looking forward to removing the intake, egr tube, etc.. And removing the A/C lines, recharging Freon, etc...But What the Heck! I better just do it right...Might as well change them spark plugs while I'm at it...She does have 180,000 miles on her....Going to drop the oil pan and fish the remaining broken guide pieces out of it too....I did get a new MOTORCRAFT oil filter (it had a cheep off-brand on it) also got motorcraft 5W-20 oil & Air filter today for it ( the air filter that was in it looked TERRIBLE!! Totally clogged up...whoever had this thing did not take care of it!!! Looks real nice inside and out, but they did not do regular maintenance on the engine, that's for sure!! But all that FUN will have to wait until next weekend!! Back to work tomorrow... Have to pay for all this crap!!

 

I believe the timing procedure is very similar to the "regular" SOHC engine, just that you time the upper chains first, then the main chains. You should grab a factory service manual when doing a job like this, it will be very helpful:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/171688203055?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

They don't show the DOHCs in the timing chain section, only in the camshaft section. So first install the small chain between the pair of cams on each side as shown in the PDF below, then follow the timing procedures in the "2003 5-4 Timing Chains" PDF I previously posted.

 

Absolutely, as they are so easy to do with the intake off that you would being kicking yourself later for not changing them. Get a boot and spring kit for your 8 COPs as well. If they have 180K on them there's a good chance they're going to tear on you and cause misfires.

 

OK. I picked up a Haynes book for the vehicle...Not the most informative..But was all my local Auto-zone / napa auto stores had in stock...I wanted a Chilton! But no body had one in town...So the Haynes will have to get the job done!! Worth the $ regardless I guess....

Got a Question for ya!! I can get a timing set from my local Auto-Zone or Napa for $500.00 with only a 90 day warranty...
Or I can get one on eBay for $200.00 with a 1-year unlimited mile Warranty!!!

I think I'm going to go for the eBay option unless anyone can steer me toward the local auto parts store direction for the $500.00

Thanks again,

Danny

 

First, Haynes is a waste of money. It's not very detailed, the factory service manual is much much more detailed in every aspect.

Then, I will recommend that you use OEM parts. It's pretty critical parts for the engine, not only is it a lot of work to replace it, if they fail due to dodgy china-quality standards then it will destroy the engine. Not really worth the risk....

 

What's the vehicle?
Did you price the parts at rockauto.com yet?

 

Your right Skauber...I did return the Haynes and picked up a Chilton..I might look into buying a PDF OEM manual online for it?? But the chilton seems to be much better than the Haynes and I think will be good enough to get this job done...

Funny thing is I have called multiple parts houses. And none of them offer any kind of warranty over 90 days on the parts....

I did call the ford parts dept and talked to the parts manager about OEM parts...Total for the parts was $465.00 But he said unless I got the parts installed by the ford house service dept. they would not warranty the parts??? And I just thought that was some bull crap....So Im still on the fence about which way Im going to go?? Thanks...

 

2003 Lincoln Navigator 5.4L 32 valve DOHC

I did just that! Prices are not bad. Even for the best "Cloyes" brand they want $360.00 for the kit...I just dont know which way I want to go yet?? Mainly because I dont know If Im going to keep this thing or not?? I might just fix it and re-sell it?? If so, I will just throw a cheep set in it to move it down the line!! But If I keep it I will drop the $ on the motorcraft parts? But It does have 180,000 miles on it!! Just dont know if I want to gamble on it going to 300,000 with no engine issues especially since whoever owned it before took such **** poor care of it mechanically??

Decisions, Decisions!!! Its not a daily driver so Im in no rush to make a hasty choice!! Just need to make my mind up if I want to re-sell it or Keep it???

 

I would not hesitate to use the Cloyes over the MotorCraft, the quality is the same or better, plus they'll honor their warranty.

 

Hey guys, Well I went ahead and got the cloyes timing kit!! I also paid the money and got the OTC 6498 ford cam tool. new spark plugs, new valve cover gaskets, new timing cover gaskets and crank seal.

Just to let everyone know!! I did not have to pull my A/C lines to get the passenger valve cover off!! I did have to pull both the heater hoses off as well as push both wiring harnesses below the valve cover....But what I was able to do after that was to pull up while twisting the front of the valve cover toward the center of the engine and presto!! she came right off...So no need to remove a/c lines leading into the firewall!!!!

I did have to pull intake for drivers side...because of the EGR valve line/tube to exhaust...But I sprayed a good amount of PB blaster to the lower nut of the EGR line connection (let sit) to exhaust and then pulled the drivers side tire off to access the nut to remove it!!

The question that I'm having now is the alignment/lock down of the crank to cam??
I know (I Think) i turn the crank with the number one cylinder plug removed and turn crank until the number one cylinder is TDC and all timing marks line up with chain marks? At that point do I use the otc 6498 tools to lock down the cams/crank and then remove the chains?? and replace all timing components??

Thanks for any help guys!!

 

Number one cylinder s/b tdc ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE!