OK looking for some help from all the straight 6 guru's on this sight. I and my 14 year old son and restoring an 82 f150 4x4 4sp w/od. We have a pretty solid plan overall for the truck but when it comes to the engine I could use some help. We bought the truck with the clutch was out and allegedly it has a jasper engine with 10k miles on it. It starts and runs with good oil pressure. Since we are restoring it we are going to check it out further, later but we are in the planning phase anyways. The block casting number is e1 so we know that is the correct era and is has no o2 sensor and dsII ignition . We already bought a set of Efi exhust manifolds and are planning to install them but that leads me to ask can i keep the egr and smog pump? The rear manifold has a tube connection but will it function correctly? Also assuming I have the correct head we would like to do the 1.73:1 rocker swap. Any issues with egr? Also I plan on doing the coolant heater on the stock intake and the 3g alternator upgrade to run his toys. Should a restrictor plate under the egr be considered? Looking for modest performance gains, decent milage and a cool truck. Any help is appericiated. And by the way I only posted after about 6 hrs of searching for answers. I hope I was thorough enough in my post.
Thanks

 

There is no reason you can't keep the EGR valve. The EFI and carbed engines both had the EGR valve. They were just different lay outs. You will need to modify or fabricate the supply tube.

Where you might have the issue is the coolant heater on the stock intake. I have tried the EFI manifolds with a stock intake. But I believe there might be some grinding on the intake needed to make clearance. And I think it's in the stock heat riser location.

 

Thanks Fordman75 for the reply. Do you think I'll need to recurve the dist timing due to the changes? And i was worried the egr pulling from only 3 cylinders vs. 6 may cause an issue. I'm OK with fabricating a tube. As far as the EFI manifolds i was under the impression they were a direct fit. If not if figure something out. Thanks

 

I would strongly advise you to get an aftermarket intake (I like the Offenhauser C-Series) and at least a 2v carburetor. It will require a lot more creativity to keep the EGR vs. the stock intake but really wakes up the 300. Since the intake has to come off anyway make it count.

An '82 head should have shafts for the rockers so the Chevy ones are an easy swap.

 

I appericiate the feedback, my concern is creating a gas hog. I really hope you are correct about the studs. I know it should...... but until I pull the cover I won't know for sure.

 

It's all about tuning. I got 19mpg out of a 600cfm Holley 4bbl.

The only time a 4bbl really becomes a gas hog is when you can't stop having fun with it.


The issue with keeping the smog pump and EGR is that they're integrated into the exhaust manifold, so the moment you go with EGR manifolds, headers, etc. anything but the stock manifold, there are no connections for either of those components any more. It will be all custom engineering.

 

Any time you make changes to the performance of the engine it's not a bad idea to do some experimenting with the advance curves. It will run with out doing it though.

The # of cylinder feeding the EGR valve is not a a problem.

I could be wrong on the fit of the manifolds. It wouldn't be the first time or the last time I was wrong. The stock intake is always the first thing I toss. So I've never tried it myself. Just don't be surprised if a little grinding is needed.

 

Wow that's impressive! I figure at 16 he will be lucky to get 12 lol. As for the Efi manifolds it has a port for the EGR tube is just have to bend a tube. I'm ok with that I was more worried about only pulling from 3 of the 6 cylinders and what it would do to the timing curve. Thanks for the reply

 

Yes, on both sets of EFI manifolds, there was some grinding required. It's not a lot, but it is vital. If not, you'll break things when you torque it all down.

Set the intake and exhaust together while off the head, and you'll immediately see what's keeping the ears on the intake with becoming flush with the exhaust. Grind off whatever it is. Generally, it's not a lot. Usually just raised ridges, or one of the elbows.

Oh, and you will need to remove one of the 3 extra bolt loops on the EFI manifolds. You can't use them anyway with your carb'd head so you'll never miss it.

 

Ok lol,
I hadn't considered an aftermarket intake but you guys are making a case. Lol
thanks again

 

OK thanks if I go with an aftermarket intake does the fitment improve?

 

I did one for the stock intake and one for the aftermarket and there wasn't a lot of difference. Honestly, it took me 5 - 10 minutes with a grinder to fix it. It's not a big deal. Just needs to be done.

 

A couple of hints:

I have used a corrugated home hot water heater stainless steel gas supply tube to fabricate an EGR supply tube. Available at home builders stores. Cheap. Rust resistant too.

As far as restricting the EGR with a plate, a more effective method is to restrict the vacuum supply line using an inline restrictor - in the .015" - .030" range. The further away from the valve the restrictor is placed the more delay you will get as far as EGR flow initiation, since the '82 valve is backpressure modulated. And with EFI exhausts your backpressure will already be reduced. Also consider a TVS valve in the thermostat housing to delay the EGR until the engine comes up to temp. Then you will have a sweet driving machine.

 

The Frenchtown Flyer I was hoping you would chime in. I have access to a tube bender and flare fittings so like I said no issues with the tube but great tip. As far as the inline restrictor is .015"-.030" an orifice size or a reference to in/h20 or in/hg. I just want clearification. On the TSV. I can only assume this is a heat switch cut into the circuit somehow? Again any clearification would be most appreciated. And a Part number if you happen to have one. 2 additional questions for you. What is your opinion of stock vs. Aftermarket intake. This is for a truck and we want off idle torque. Not top end horse power.
Also i was looking at the EFI lower intake and wondered has anyone every tried to make a plentem for a carb on top of them. Short runners typically improve low end power. just curious if that would work or if it's been tried?
thanks

 

Take a look at this link [regarding EFI lower intake]:

FORDSIX PERFORMANCE ? View topic - Multiple carburetors