Scott's Hot Rods IFS installation
#1
Scott's Hot Rods IFS installation
As noted in another post I have going I will be installing a Scott's Hot Rods IFS in my '50 F1 so I thought I would do a running update as I do the install. So first is to remove the original suspension and in my case clean up the frame rails that the previous owner had 'butchered' installing a Chevy 327.
So I had to get from this
To this
Then the boxing plates were installed which led to the next surprise
Again it seems the previous owner needed to remove 1/4" from the top of each frame rail so when the boxing plates were welded in the remaining gap between the rails was 1/2" too wide. Two 1/4" plates fixed that
Next, measure measure and measure again, mark the center for the crossmember and clamp in place, measure again.
When finally happy, weld it in!! I suspended the frame from my engine crane to get access to the lower welds
Then I did a dry fit on the lower, upper A arms and stub axles to check for fit, all good
Continued the dry fit with the steering rack and seems I need to C notch around the steering gaiter
The roll bar fits well but need to remove one of the front frame crossmember rivets to allow the sway bar mount to sit flat on the underside of the rail.
More to come but overall the quality of the Scott's kit is very good so far!!
John
So I had to get from this
To this
Then the boxing plates were installed which led to the next surprise
Again it seems the previous owner needed to remove 1/4" from the top of each frame rail so when the boxing plates were welded in the remaining gap between the rails was 1/2" too wide. Two 1/4" plates fixed that
Next, measure measure and measure again, mark the center for the crossmember and clamp in place, measure again.
When finally happy, weld it in!! I suspended the frame from my engine crane to get access to the lower welds
Then I did a dry fit on the lower, upper A arms and stub axles to check for fit, all good
Continued the dry fit with the steering rack and seems I need to C notch around the steering gaiter
The roll bar fits well but need to remove one of the front frame crossmember rivets to allow the sway bar mount to sit flat on the underside of the rail.
More to come but overall the quality of the Scott's kit is very good so far!!
John
#3
#5
Update
So today I finished repairing the frame rails by cutting out the weak and replacing with new 1/8" plate, filling unused holes and much grinding!!
Then reinstalled the A arms and ant-roll bar one more time for a final dry fit.
Final thoughts on the Scotts kit, worth the money!! Now to find an Explorer 8.8.....
Then reinstalled the A arms and ant-roll bar one more time for a final dry fit.
Final thoughts on the Scotts kit, worth the money!! Now to find an Explorer 8.8.....
#7
Hey JTB
Nice work on the IFS - the rear is a lot easier. You made it look easy.
Just some info. on the Explorer 8.8..
There are numerous Ford vehicles that came with 8.8 axles - if memory serves me correctly the 97 - 2001 Explorers have the large
spline set up (stronger). Get the ebrake set up if you are missing one - it works fine.
2001 Explorer 8.8 axle Pluses:
o Disc Brakes
o 3.73 Gearing
o Positraction
o Stronger spline set up than Rangers, etc.
Negatives:
o You will probably need to use Spacers ($90) to get the wheels to look good in the fenders & to get the track width right. The 8.8 is a little narrow vs. stock.
You can also find the strong 8.8 in. axles on the Mountaineers of the same years. Some Volvos have them as well. Look for 3L73 on the tag for limited slip & 3.73 gears.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
Nice work on the IFS - the rear is a lot easier. You made it look easy.
Just some info. on the Explorer 8.8..
There are numerous Ford vehicles that came with 8.8 axles - if memory serves me correctly the 97 - 2001 Explorers have the large
spline set up (stronger). Get the ebrake set up if you are missing one - it works fine.
2001 Explorer 8.8 axle Pluses:
o Disc Brakes
o 3.73 Gearing
o Positraction
o Stronger spline set up than Rangers, etc.
Negatives:
o You will probably need to use Spacers ($90) to get the wheels to look good in the fenders & to get the track width right. The 8.8 is a little narrow vs. stock.
You can also find the strong 8.8 in. axles on the Mountaineers of the same years. Some Volvos have them as well. Look for 3L73 on the tag for limited slip & 3.73 gears.
Ben in Austin
1950 F1
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#10
So today I finished repairing the frame rails by cutting out the weak and replacing with new 1/8" plate, filling unused holes and much grinding!!
Then reinstalled the A arms and ant-roll bar one more time for a final dry fit.
Final thoughts on the Scotts kit, worth the money!! Now to find an Explorer 8.8.....
Then reinstalled the A arms and ant-roll bar one more time for a final dry fit.
Final thoughts on the Scotts kit, worth the money!! Now to find an Explorer 8.8.....
#13
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