300 inline to 302 engine swap concerns
#1
01-24-2016, 05:26 PM
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300 inline to 302 engine swap concerns
Well i have pretty much came to the conclusion that it's time to just throw a 302 in place of the ole 300 six. I have a few concerns. I know the obvious things that have to be changed when doing a complete engine swap. Radiator,wiring etc. My biggest concern that I've noticed is the clutch. My truck is a 82 with the t18 4speed. Now the rod that goes into the clutch from the spring and bracket on the firewall goes into the engine on my 300 six not the Bell housing. Now if I swap to a 302 am I looking at having to get a different Bell housing or certain year v8 that have the same setup? Or do all 302 engines have the same setup? Any help would be greatly appreciated
#2
01-24-2016, 05:52 PM
Posting Guru
Well i have pretty much came to the conclusion that it's time to just throw a 302 in place of the ole 300 six. I have a few concerns. I know the obvious things that have to be changed when doing a complete engine swap. Radiator,wiring etc. My biggest concern that I've noticed is the clutch. My truck is a 82 with the t18 4speed. Now the rod that goes into the clutch from the spring and bracket on the firewall goes into the engine on my 300 six not the Bell housing. Now if I swap to a 302 am I looking at having to get a different Bell housing or certain year v8 that have the same setup? Or do all 302 engines have the same setup? Any help would be greatly appreciated
#3
01-24-2016, 05:54 PM
#4
01-24-2016, 05:54 PM
Logistics Pro
The 300, 302 and 351W all share the same bellhousing pattern, so any bellhousing that will bolt to one will bolt to the others as well. So it shouldn't be hard at all to get your trans onto a 302.
edit: That was a lot of reply activity all of a sudden!
#5
01-24-2016, 05:57 PM
Posting Guru
Produced at the Cleveland Engine plant in Brook Park, Ohio from 1964 through 1996, the 240 and 300 Sixes are well known for their durability. Simple design and rugged construction continue to endear these engines to a number of Ford enthusiasts to this day. Many have run 300,000 to 600,000 miles (480,000 to 970,000 km) without any more service than standard oil changes.[citation needed] The engine has earned the monikers "bulletproof" and "indestructible" by many. There are numerous claims of those who have purposely sought out to destroy one through abusive use, and were unsuccessful in doing so.
Albeit stolen from Wiki....it speaks true.
Albeit stolen from Wiki....it speaks true.
#6
01-24-2016, 06:09 PM
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Well the reason for the swap
is the 300 I've got has already been rebuilt twice and bored .40 over its got piston rings stuck in the first cylinder. I'm guessing because the front of the engine stays so much cooler. Also with the availability of performance parts for the 302 I can make alot more power not just in HP but in torque as well fairly cheap
is the 300 I've got has already been rebuilt twice and bored .40 over its got piston rings stuck in the first cylinder. I'm guessing because the front of the engine stays so much cooler. Also with the availability of performance parts for the 302 I can make alot more power not just in HP but in torque as well fairly cheap
#7
01-24-2016, 06:14 PM
Well the reason for the swap
is the 300 I've got has already been rebuilt twice and bored .40 over its got piston rings stuck in the first cylinder. I'm guessing because the front of the engine stays so much cooler. Also with the availability of performance parts for the 302 I can make alot more power not just in HP but in torque as well fairly cheap and when I say clutch rod its kinda hard to explain but the block itself is cast with a hole for a rod that connects to the spring on the outside of the engine its right in front of where the Bell housing bolts on
is the 300 I've got has already been rebuilt twice and bored .40 over its got piston rings stuck in the first cylinder. I'm guessing because the front of the engine stays so much cooler. Also with the availability of performance parts for the 302 I can make alot more power not just in HP but in torque as well fairly cheap and when I say clutch rod its kinda hard to explain but the block itself is cast with a hole for a rod that connects to the spring on the outside of the engine its right in front of where the Bell housing bolts on
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#8
01-24-2016, 06:19 PM
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I see what your saying now. Thank you for clearing up what I was concerned about . Now do all 302 blocks have the same threaded whole to mount this bracket?
#9
01-24-2016, 09:29 PM
Logistics Pro
....The only issue I had reinstalling the trans was that the replacement engine didn't have one of the bosses for the clutch linkage. After staring forlornly up at it from a creeper for a while I figured out a way to tie the missing mounting point into the bellhousing. It's not as solid as the original, but it's plenty strong in the direction it needs to be....
The jerry-rigged clutch link mount was tough to get a picture of, but here's a bad one. This picture is taken looking straight up from a creeper. The bolt that the green arrow points to is pointing straight to the left.
I started with a piece of thin angle iron, I think from an old bed frame. The lower end is attached with one of the bolts that holds the thin sheetmetal access cover to the lower front of the bellhousing. The top end provides a mounting point for one end of the bellcrank in the clutch linkage. I had to run the bolt "the wrong way" through the bellcrank mounting hole because there wasn't room for the nut where the boss was supposed to be.
The bracket does nothing to keep the bellcrank moving side to side, but other mounting points on the bellcrank hold it in that direction. And it does very little to keep it from moving front-to-back, but again, other points take care of that. The only motion it really stops is up and down, and that's what was missing.
The jerry-rigged clutch link mount was tough to get a picture of, but here's a bad one. This picture is taken looking straight up from a creeper. The bolt that the green arrow points to is pointing straight to the left.
I started with a piece of thin angle iron, I think from an old bed frame. The lower end is attached with one of the bolts that holds the thin sheetmetal access cover to the lower front of the bellhousing. The top end provides a mounting point for one end of the bellcrank in the clutch linkage. I had to run the bolt "the wrong way" through the bellcrank mounting hole because there wasn't room for the nut where the boss was supposed to be.
The bracket does nothing to keep the bellcrank moving side to side, but other mounting points on the bellcrank hold it in that direction. And it does very little to keep it from moving front-to-back, but again, other points take care of that. The only motion it really stops is up and down, and that's what was missing.
.... As you've discovered, the newer 302's (HO's) did not have the bolt hole for the clutch bell crank, but the Bronco vendors sell a bracket just for this... EFI Clutch Equalizer Bracket, 66-77 Ford Bronco, New - Toms Bronco Parts....
#10
01-25-2016, 06:21 PM
#11
01-25-2016, 06:28 PM
The picture below is the wrong year, wrong engine, but it does show a piece that looks somewhat like the proper piece in the Haynes manual. The picture at the tip of the sweeping black arrow at the bottom of the picture, is the six cylinder version with the stud directly into the block. If you look were the arrow starts, that is a picture of the v8 version. The "L" bracket I am talking about is part number 7A572 in the picture, in this case for a 360 or 390. The proper bracket for the 80-82 system looks very similiar.
#12
01-26-2016, 07:40 PM
Back when I had my '83, it came factory with the 300-6. When I put the 302 in it, I had to lathe the threads down and re-thread it for the 302 (I used an early block). Then, when I put the 351w in it, I found the correct bracket with the ball stud attached and used that.
#13
01-26-2016, 07:56 PM
You can get the screws in studs for 70s trucks, but there is presumable another bracket that goes into you would need.
Here is a repop part for small block mustangs.
Scott Drake D1ZZ-7A572-A - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Most pivots I've seen look just about identical from 60s through 80s. Bolt to same two bellhousing bolts and all about the same size. I never measured real close though.
Alternatively, this would be a good time to swap in a ZF5.
As for 300 vs 302... A 302 is much cheaper to get more power from. 300-350 HP doesn't really cost much more than a stock 225-ish HP rebuild. I'd at least be looking at a 351w if this is pretty much a bolt in deal (same frame mounts?), but honestly for the trouble of doing an engine swap I'd do a 460. Swapped my old 351w that was miserable to tow with for a 460 putting out in the neighborhood of 450 HP. and a boatload of torque. So much nicer for towing and unloaded it boogies pretty good for a 6000 lbs truck.
Here is a repop part for small block mustangs.
Scott Drake D1ZZ-7A572-A - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Most pivots I've seen look just about identical from 60s through 80s. Bolt to same two bellhousing bolts and all about the same size. I never measured real close though.
Alternatively, this would be a good time to swap in a ZF5.
As for 300 vs 302... A 302 is much cheaper to get more power from. 300-350 HP doesn't really cost much more than a stock 225-ish HP rebuild. I'd at least be looking at a 351w if this is pretty much a bolt in deal (same frame mounts?), but honestly for the trouble of doing an engine swap I'd do a 460. Swapped my old 351w that was miserable to tow with for a 460 putting out in the neighborhood of 450 HP. and a boatload of torque. So much nicer for towing and unloaded it boogies pretty good for a 6000 lbs truck.
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