I know we have talked about the cracked bezels, but I am want to finally address my faulty window lock switch.

I have taken it apart and tried to find a wiring diagram, but have come up with nothing. Anyone ever had theirs fail and fixed it?

 

I would put money on the actuators, NOT the switch

 

I must have been in a hurry to post and left out some details. All 4 work from driver control with lock switch in either position. The individual controls do not work in either position.

 

THAT is very weird

 

Is it safe to assume say an explorer of that era may have a similar switch that I could look up the wiring diagram for? My chilton manual does not cover crew cabs and the reg cabs and SC's did not have the lock switch(at least in the manual).

 

The last one that I had trouble with on the right rear window was in the driver's door. It was a simple fix on this on as the connector was falling off of the master switch. Zip tied the connector back on and it has been working for a couple of years now.

 

You're talking about the master switch on the drivers door that locks out all passenger windows correct?

All windows get power from LT blu-blk wire, that switch turns that power on or off to all three other windows.

In each switch to run the windows up or down polarity is reversed. Power flows one way window goes up, power flows other way window goes down.

If it has no continuity in the "On" position then that switch itself is bad there really isn't much more to it than that.

My book doesn't show the diagram for the CC windows either and had no luck finding one posted on the WWW. So its possible a relay handles that load but you should be able to determine that without to much trouble. Ford wasn't big on use of relays for these trucks so the full load probably goes through that switch.

Easy enough to test each individual window (big fun pulling that many door panels off!), jump juice to the Lt Blu-blk wire at each one and try the switch. Or just jumper it around the lock out switch and try the other window controls and see if the windows move.

 

Yes

On the driver switch set in mine it has power in ACC, and ON. It supplies power to the main switch circuit(pictured). All four windows draw power from that wire in this switch set.

I'm going to avoid that for the time being.
Main circuit pin and lock cutoff contact and pin shown;

Underside shows LTblu/blk wire supplies power to main terminal for all for switches, and the lock cutoff circuit pin missing a terminal and a wire to send power to other windows?

Found a wire underneath that looks like it may have been tied/taped off in the past, because it just leads back to the same harness. Red/Ltblu wire. Ideas?

Gonna try a vid upload from my bucket to see if this works. Showing I do have power to the cutoff circuit.(I realize this isn't the problem)
http://vid1252.photobucket.com/album...331DFB6E22.mp4

 

my bad. I was thinking you didn't have function locks.

 

I need to do a little more tear down, but does anyone know if these wires go to any location besides directly to other the other Windows?

The removals on the ends of the wires look pretty complicated so I don't even know if I can make anything work for it. It kind of seems like the pins need to be removed to get a terminal around them.

 

Do you still need this? I just ordered the 1997 factory service manual on cd in pdf form. I can do a copy screen of the schematic for wiring if it's in there and you still need it

 

I completely forgot that I fixed this! It ended up being that red/LT blue wire that was disconnected and taped down to the harness. I couldn't figure out how to remove the back plate. I just cut the crossover tab that holds the terminal in place and made sure the crimp was tight. I would take a copy though!

And I still haven't figured out why it was disconnected when I bought it.

 

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