could a bad TPS cause it not to start?
like code 63- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) signal too low TPS.
Any way to chek the tps?

 

You have three digit codes.
You have no codes as the text below states.

116 636 114 116 636 114
OR
The code repeat so you just have114, 116 & 636.
They say the engine was cold when you did the test so disregard these three codes.
DTC 116 (ECT) or 114 (IAT) indicates the sensor is out of Self-Test range. The correct range is 0.3 to 3.7 volts.

DTC 636 indicates the output of the Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) sensor was out of Self-Test range. The sensor output shows a failure occurred at either the low or high end of the acceptable range. The correct range of measurement is from 0.76 to 4.69 volts for Escort/Tracer and from 0.21 to 3.50 volts for all other vehicles.

 

just pulled out 1, the TDC marks are the correct marks for TDC ssp it hasnt jumped off any. Put rotor on TDC and cap with plug 1 on tdc and still not starting

 

Before it all stopd working it ran like crap, idled like crap, and when ide tap the peddle quick itd die. I had my exhaust done at a cheap shop and they didnt disconect my negative battery cable so thats what fried all my electronics so far. So could the TPS cause it to not START at all?

 

You did not have a TPS code but if the TPS says wide open throttle then yes it would cause it not to start with the fuel injectors.
But you would still have spark.

 

just got a new TPS. Took plugs out and waiting gor gas to go away so i can put them back in since im sure it was flooded. Ive had spark ever since i replaced Dist. assembly since my Hall switch in it was fried. Ive now literally replaced everything in the ignition system that was fried by the dumb A welder at the shop. TPS, Computer, Dist assembly, Coil, PIP sensor. i Tried the new tps just now and it still wasnt starting so i decided to take out all the plugs and wait for the gas to go away and cleaned off the plugs because they where soaked in gas.

 

Sorry subford i just now saw your latest comments from refreshing the page. Ive thought i had 2 digit codes. Well i just reset the codes and its sayin 111 so system OK so i will try to crank after the flooded gas goes away

 

you should be able to start it when it is flooded. You crank the starter and after about a second, you go WOT and the ECU will cutoff fuel, should start within a few seconds if it will start at all. Just don't press the throttle until after you start cranking or before you turn on the key, it will throw the ECU off.

 

And just so everybody is clear. At the start of this page i did not have spark, BUT. After replacing the dizzy assembly i got spark again but still no start. I tested every plug wire and i have spark at 20kv on my spark plug tester, i dint test it at 30kv but i did test my coil at 30kv and it was a nice and pretty hot blue spark so its good too.

 

This is a stumper, at least over the interwebs. Do us a favor. Take some picture of the crank lined up on TDC, the rotor the plugs, and anything else you can think of. Maybe someone will see something that we're missing trying to talk this out.

 

Classic symptom of having the distributor 180 degrees out of phase. The crankshaft rotates twice for a complete combustion/exhaust cycle. Hence the term four cycle engine.

 

SOrry havnt been on in 2 days but i got it running on my last post after taking all the plugs out to air it out one last time. It cranked right up after replacing the TPS wich was the last possible thing the welder could have fried. Thanks guys for all the replys and help. No check engine light on now either after replacing everything and timed it to 10 degrees and runs like a boss

 

Thank you for letting us know what you found.