Found a guy selling a ready to bolt in swap for my 1997 F250. (my ttb-50 front is making awful noises)

It's from a 1990 F350 Custom. 4.10s kingpin. He's also including the track bar, track bar bracket, driver side u-bolt plate, steering linkage, 350 springs, 350 driveshaft, and t-case yolk.

Only problem is the truck is a DRW and the guys doesn't have an adapter (which i guess is just a different knuckle?)

My question is (and i remember reading it somewhere) is can i put my TTB 50 knuckles on his D60 and then run my brakes on his axle? Or is this not possible?

Also ABS, my truck has it, will i lose it or what's the deal with that axle?

Thanks!

 

Sounds like a good deal but I don't think you will be able to put your ball joint knuckles on that King pin axle. Also your truck is abs on the rear only. Hopefully someone with more info will chime in

 

That's pretty much it.


I think the difference is the spindles and wheel hubs though, not the knuckles.
I could be wrong.

 

Remove the wheel bearings and dually hubs from the D60, but leave the spindles. Put your hubs and bearings on the D60 spindles, and use the rotors and brakes from the D60. The t-case yoke will not work on your t-case. The 1990 has a 1356 t-case, and your 1997 has a 4407 t-case. You will need this yoke.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/4407-TRANSFER-CASE-YOKE-F5TZ7B214B-1330-CV-/300996468910?hash=item4614c9a0ae

 

Thanks guys! You guys are the best.

Hey Bill, do you know what year transfer case I could pull that yoke off of? The guy I'm buying from has multiple trucks I believe. Might be able to grab one from him
for cheaper.

 

It would have to be from a '96 or '97 F350. Those are the only two years with the 4407 t-case.

 

Thank you.

Last question for now. Am I going to need to put bigger blocks in the rear to keep the truck level after putting this in?

I'm also in need of new tires. Should I upgrade to stock size 350 tires or maybe a size bigger?

 

Yes, you'll want the 4" blocks from the 350.

 

Ok Cool.

The chronicles continue;

Moving the truck around the yard earlier driving about 5MPH down the driveway, i went to drive over the driveway onto the lawn and drove into a 6" ditch or so (where all the water runs down the side of the driveway.)

Felt my steering wheel jerk a little, and then my foot went to the floor on the brakes as if i just popped a brake line (brakes were totally fine before this). The front hub (the piece where you turn it to lock the hub) blew out and an awful grinding noise followed. Obviously i haven't been driving this on the road because of the front axle but this brake issue concerns me.

Why would i instantly lose my pedal when the front axle got even more wonky? If i pump the pedal like 3 times real quick i have a pedal for a split second that'll stop the truck and then it'll go all the way to the floor and hardly stop it. Doesn't matter if the truck is running or shut off. Pedals the same. I don't see why this would be related to my front axle grenading.

I'm picking up a D60 kingpin Sunday that'll be going in but i'm concerned about my brakes now. There's no fluid leaking anywhere and the reservoir is full.

 

If you are sure you have no leaks, about the only other thing left is the master cylinder. It sounds like the internal seals are toast. I'd install a new one, as they are not that much difference in price over rebuilt one.

 

You could also have a stuck caliper.

 

Ok. After searching craigslist high and low i realized these axles are hard to find. They're $800-1,000 and that's just the axle. No leafs, steering, etc etc, and even still they're hard to get.

So i figured why not buy an entire truck? Use what i need, part the rest, make some of my money back.

I found this gas job on craigslist. I can see in the pictures that it's a D60. Question is how do i know if it has 4.10s? (Link below)

97 ford f350

Thanks!

 

Jack it up and rotate the front wheel with the hubs engaged. For one revolution of the tire/wheel, you should count just over 4 revolutions on the driveshaft (or yoke if there is no shaft) to have 4.10 ratio.
If you count about 3 and a half turns it's 3:55, etc.

 

I thought that only worked on axles with a locker/LSD.

Just asked him to send me a picture of the door jam sticker.

 

No, but you need both hubs locked in, otherwise just the spiders spin inside.
At least it's always worked for me.