Rich,
I hear what your saying about 125k being no big deal, I just figured it was good to mention for consideration when trying to nail down an issue. I bought it in 2004 with 53k so I know most of the history as well.
My torque wrench arrived this week so I figure I will pull the valve covers and check the torque on the injectors and replace the glow plugs as cheap insurance along with checking out the UVCH. I did the .50 mod on both sides due to issues, the pass side actually came apart with the dealer wedge fix installed.
Once I button everything back up I will check for boost leaks and see where I'm at with the turbo after that. One question I have on the turbo, since the 38r seems to be a popular upgrade. The most I plan as far as fuel upgrades would be AC160/0 injectors. Would it make more sense to ditch the stock turbo, or would it (with upgraded wheel and a rebuild) be able to keep up with the AC injectors?

 

I was able to exceed the stock turbo envelope with just tuning and air in/out mods. The stocker needs a better wheel, swapped out, or de-tuning to handle bigger sticks. I can't speak to how much better you'll do with modifying the stocker - I have no experience with that.

 

Just got back from a ride with the red line unhooked and it made 27 lbs of boost, and it seemed to build boost a lot faster as well. I didn't get to log it, I will do that next time. I am guessing the PHP tunes aren't concerned with over boost since it didn't seem to attempt to limit it.

 

Now we're talkin'... I'd bet the soot factor and EGTs took a nosedive. I'd be curious to see how your EBP is holding up.

 

It was quite an eye opener to say the least, the seat-o-pants meter was real good.
I will log both the 40DD and 65DD tunes again with AE again and post results the next chance I get.

 

Now that I am able to make boost in excess of 23 pounds I noticed several codes being set in the PCM. Although none of set the CEL would there be any benefit to adding an OCR (other than not setting or seeing the codes) since my tunes already seem to be dealing with the over boost condition. On the other side of the coin, would the OCR have any negative effect on the tunes if they were written to deal with additional boost?

 

• I've had a cheapo zener diode boost fooler (came with the truck) - fail.
• I installed the OCR with stock sticks and turbo with a tune - win/fail. No more SES light, but I couldn't log my top boost on an OBDII application.
• With bigger sticks and a different tune provider, I removed the OCR to log top boost - fail. I broke my MAP sensor.
• Big sticks and OCR - win/fail. MAP sensor protected, but I have to use an external boost gauge to see my top boost - no logging without a video camera.

The SES light doesn't hurt anything, except maybe your Chi. I just called it lightning to go with the thunder. If you chose an OCR, the Riffraff Diesel unit has serve me very well for years. If I had a perfect world OCR, it would cap the pressure at about thirty two PSI instead of twenty two PSI.

 

Isn't that the whole point of the OCR though? If it didn't stop the boost at 22psi then you would get a check engine light.

 

The high-boost SES light triggers with some tune providers, but not all. I never had the SES trigger when I installed my Hydra and tunes, even with the OCR out of the picture.

 

Just returned from a test drive after the latest round of upgrades. The list includes, Rebuilding the turbo with an SPX complete 360 degree kit including a billet compressor wheel and a new turbine/shaft, balanced as an assembly by SPturboost, Rebuilt EBPV, Dorman Up Pipes, Riffraff FRx (gold spring), AIH delete, CVD, All new cac boots w/plenum inserts and all new clamps. Rebuilt complete fuel bowl/filter housing, and re-torqued all injectors to 120inch pounds. (All were around 80). Seat of the pants felt great, idles smooth and quiet. Graphs attached from AE before and after. I'm not sure if it was any one upgrade or a combination of many, but my 65HP DD tune is much improved from what I can tell with my limited AE experience.
Still couldn't figure out how to change FIPW from Seconds to MS, graphs attached. Let me know what you think.

 

Open the settings for the FIPW PID, go to "Scale Value", and set that to 1000.

Whoa-ho... your EBP and Boost are showing some real meat to the cheetah. Your tune is a touch "hot", you might try not quite flooring it - but feather the throttle just enough to keep your ICP at about 3000 and your IPR closer to 40%. Your FIPW is sneaking up on 4 ms (3 ms is optimal max), robbing some of the permagrin factor.

 

Will do,
I went back and re-read your previous post last night. I was trying to do it with the drop down list but it only has the option for seconds.