Yes mine does anyway

 

Have you checked out the other thread that's going right now on putting a solid Dana 60 into an F-150? Some of the same issues, at least as far as leaf springs are concerned.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...questions.html

 

the rear end is a bolt in, same 3" rear leafs F250 and F150 4x4s


F250 TTB has no parts that interchange onto the F150 TTB.


ring and pinion might fit from an early F250 TTB but that's it! locking hubs would fit.


have seen several guys do 8 bolt conversions on the F150 TTB using early GM 10bolt and dana 44 3/4ton solid axle parts, some mods need to be made.


in my opinion, putting a TTB leaf front end in anything is a mistake but when you already have the parts that might be your best bet if you are trying to keep your costs down. box in the accordion frame rails and swap all your leaf TTB mounts onto your F150 frame.


once you have the front leaf spring mounts into your F150 its only a small step up to put a dana 60 front in there and ad the F350 lift block in the rear (later project of course )


good luck with the project. quite doable even if you are new to Fords.

 

Wonder i the best route is to hit the pull and save lot and find a 4.10 front end from a half ton. They are $95 locally if I can find one.

Have the day off Monday so at least I can look at all of this in the daylight and looks like it might even be slightly above freezing outside.

Frame swap would be a major pain in the behind. Parts rig is full sized bed, driver is short box and parts rig has a little too much damage that I don't want to mess with.

Appreciate the input on it from all of you.

 

if you aren't worried about 5 bolt wheels on the front and 8 bolt on the rear, just swap the front ring/pinion or complete centre section from a 4.10 F150.


you could have your swap done in a weekend.

 

Well thinking I could get it swapped out relatively easily by running 5 lug up front and 8 lug on the rear and then down the road figure out a way to get them both to a common lug pattern. Matching front and rear tire sized would seem the biggest challenge with that scenerio.

Downtime would seem to be minimal and my main goal in the whole thing is to get a limited slip rear under the 1/2 ton. Heavier springs would just be a little bonus.

 

if you were going with 33" tires there are a lot of option out there for 15's and 16s.


some 5x5.5 16" ford van rims (or Dodge shhhhhh) for the front and 8bolt for the rear would get you into the same size tire and switch to 8bolt wheels for the front when you do the 8bolt swap.


easiest way to match up your tire size..........................




cheers James


Ford should have built the F250 supercab shortbed before 96


only a handful built in the early 80s and late 70s but they never caught on.

 

Am sure this is a stupid question but what are the odds that the ring and pinion out of the 3/4 ton would be able to go into the 1/2 ton? Kinda guessing the axle splines would be wrong size and probably not enough space in the front differential but worth pondering I suppose before going on a field trip/hunt to the pull and save wrecking yard. Though I do love field trips there.

 

F250 TTB were made with a dana44 front but not sure how far into production, have owned a few, a 1985, a 1988 and a 1989. but haven't seen any built later than that. if they have the small locking hub mechanism same as the F150 TTB, the R&P will fit. if the F250 hubs are the larger ones its a dana 50 , nothing is the same.

 

i would swap the F150 body parts on the F250 frame before i would attempt to put F250 suspension under a F150 frame. it will be a much easier bolt on deal than trying to fabricate all the parts needed to bolt the F250 suspension in.

 

He did say that the F-150 is a short box while the F-250 is long (both Super Cabs). So swapping onto the F-250 chassis isn't as straightforward as it might be.

 

The 3/4 ton has much larger hubs but when I measured the diameter of the axle shaft that runs to the passenger side front wheel they appear to be the same diameter just under 3.5 inches. (measured them very scientifically with a crescent wrench)

The front differentials appear to be about the same size and of similar design with 10 bolts on each that appear to be in the same pattern. They are a solid axle on the drivers side but not solid on the passenger side. The passenger side axle comes out with a rubber boot around the axle shaft. Can't find any tag on the 3/4 differential.

Looking through different Axle id charts it was a bit confusing but it was kind of looking like for the 92 half ton 4.10 was not an option from the factory. Couldn't really tell if that was for sure the case or not though.

 

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Really what got me onto this thought was to get that limited slip rear differential in the half ton. It is not very good in the slick conditions. With the 3.08 rear differential it appears to me that they did not offer a limited slip on those trucks. The parts rig just so happened to have a limited slip in it but of course then the issue with the different ratios and the front end differences.

What I don't have the knowledge on is what parts interchange and play well between the ford models. Chevy.. I would have a better chance.

Skill wise I could probably do about anything that needed to be done and get it all rednecked up and funds wise... well that is the issue at our house. Would look at moving it all over to the 3/4 ton frame but then I would need to find a new bed among other things so that isn't a great option.

It appears the cheapest possible routes would be to find a rig (if they made it) in the wrecking yard with a limited slip 3.08 and simply swap that axle into the half ton. Find a rig in the wrecking yard with a 4.10 front end on a half ton or a bronco (if they made it) and swap it into the front of the half ton. Or, swap the rear from the parts truck into the half ton and do a ring and pinion swap for the front (if it would fit). The disadvantage of the last would be two different lug patterns which I could live with for now.

Either one of those options would end up with a cost of around a hundred dollars or less and could be offset by any usable parts I don't need being sold.

 

Please delete