OK guys, I am in some deep do-do. 94 F150 with 5.0 motor. Replaced the motor with a 2000 Mountaineer 5.0. Sold the entire top end & using my injection, distributor etc, as if replacing a "long block" so I can stay w/OBD1. Can't get it to run, tried both firing orders, tag on core spt says 1,3 etc. Won't even try to run with a shot of juice. Since the firing order is determined by the cam, is it possible the injectors have to be reprogrammed or something? I'd think it would pop/fart/do something with a shot of ether even if that is the case. Frustrated & desperate in Balto*****.

 

Thats a toughie. So all efi components swapped over? Sounds like no spark if starting fluid doesnt at least get a sputter.

Perhaps the pip in the distributor is bad, or the distributor is installed way out of timing/180 out/not on the compression stroke. Its easy to set it 180 out when setting it at top dead center.

 

Forgot to mention there IS spark at plugs. Tried setting dist 180 out "just in case" and then tried both firing orders. Swapped everything over except block & heads. Tks for the quick reply!

 

You need to use the 1 - 3 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 8 firing order. If you're using that firing order, have spark at the plugs, and it won't even make a pop using starting fluid - you have timed the engine incorrectly.

 

OK, I have it running, using 1-3-7 sequence. Just got lucky I guess. BUT- the timing mark is nowhere to be seen, & I marked it in white. Now, when I brought it up to TDC watching the valves, the mark was right there. I used the balancer off the 94, is it possible that is marked wrong for this engine? Seems to be fairly smooth for a first start up.

 

If the SPOUT connector is still connected, the timing will be all over the place. You must make sure it's disconnected. If it's disconnected and the timing is still no where near the 10*BTDC mark, there are two possibilities:

1: Your timing is still way out
2: The outer ring of the crank pulley has spun on the rubber damper (fairly common with older engines)

 

The engine finally ran, after I kept turning the cap to get a pop, then advancing the rotor "chasing" it. as it turns out, it runs fine BUT- it is with the factory timing mark approx. 150 degrees off. Naturally, you can appreciate the problem this caused, because we brought it up to TDC thinking it would be close to the factory mark before we assembled the top end. So, problem may be slipped ring as suggested, or 2000 Mountaineer motor has a different relationship between the keyway and the mark than my 94 damper. (I never got the 2000 damper w/the engine). Since timing by the mark is really an approx. setting at best, I'm doing it the "old way"- run it, stop & advance it a smidge, run it, etc till it pings on hard pedal then back it down a couple of degrees. Then I'll make my own "custom" timing mark for the future. Tks for all the help, you guys are the BEST!!

 

Maybe you ought to buy a cheap timing tape (for the diameter of your balancer)
Bring cylinder #1 to TDC and stick the tape to '0' on the timing pointer?

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-163594/none/images

 

+1 since you have a franken-motor

 

Thought about the tape. But there is so much crap in the way of getting to #1 valves it's a PITA. Second, w/o using a dial indicator, TDC is still just a very close guess. This is a daily driver, not a hot rod. Cripes, not even a warm stick............
Tks all!

 

A dti isn't too much help.
Simple piston stop and divide in half between the marks.

I don't know about you, but it would be well worth $5 to me to know where the hell I am.

Good luck w/ your truck!