Hey guys! I'm sort of a newbie to this website, but the reason I'm here is because I was hoping to explain the way I plan on rebuildng my Ford 7.5 Liter 460 V8. I believe it came out of a 1976 Lincoln Continental, which I found out by decoding the engine blocks' casting number. I was hoping ya'll could give me your opinion on the build. Also, I'm hoping to get at least 400-500 horsepower out of this build. The motor will be going inside a 1985 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat Short-Bed 2WD Pick-Up Truck.

Listed Below Is All Of The Machine Work I Am Having Done:

- Block bored 0.040 over.
- Engine heads shaved, or decked 0.025, which I have been told is the maximum they can be done.
- Engine heads' exhaust ports ported.

* Also, I have engine heads with the D3VE-A2A casting number.

Besides what I listed above, thats all the machine work I'm having done besides things like having the block cleaned, new camshaft bearings installed, new freeze plugs, the heads overhauled with factory springs and valves, etc.

Listed Below Is The Parts I'm Adding Onto The Motor:

Internals:

- Keith Black Hyperutectic Pistons
- Competition Cams Umbrella Valve Stem Oil Seals
- Factory Connecting Rods And Crankshaft
- Melling High-Volume Oil Pump
- ACL Connecting Rod Bearings
- Clevite Main Crankshaft Bearings
- Sealed Power Premium Moly Piston Rings
- Scorpion Racing "Endurance Series" Roller Rocker Arms
- Summit Racing Pushrods
- 1969 Summit Racing True Double Roller Timing Set

* The reason I am buying a 1969 year timing set is because it does not have the crankshaft sprocket that retards the ignition timing 8 degrees, unlike the 1976 year timing set, which did it for emissions purposes and drained the horespower alot.

- Summit Racing Classis Camshaft And Lifter Kit

* This kit includes Summit Racing Hydraulic Flat Tappet Lifters. The specs for the camshaft can be seen through the link below.

Summit Racing® Classic Cam and Lifter Kits SUM-K3500 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Fuel System:

- Edelbrock "Performer Series" Street Fuel Pump
- Mr. Gasket Inline Clearview Fuel Filters
- 93 Octane Pump Gasoline
- Edelbrock 650 CFM Thunder Series AVS Off-Road Carburetor With Dual Fuel Inlet

Ignition System:

- Carquest Ignition Distributor
- Accel 8.8MM Spiral Core Spark Plug Wires
- Accel Distributor Cap And Rotor Button
- Accel U-Groove Header Spark Plugs
- Accel Super Stock Ignition Coil

Exhaust System:

- Hooker Long-Tube Competition Headers
- Dual Straight Pipes (Out The Side And In Front Of Rear Tires)

* I might possibly be adding some 24-31 Inch CherryBomb Glasspacks, or CherryBomb Extreme Glasspacks.

Intake System:

- Edelbrock 1-Inch Aluminum Carburetor Spacer
- Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap Dual-Plane Intake Manifold
- 14 Inch Chrome Edelbrock Air Cleaner Assembly
- Spectre Air Filter

Transmission:

* I will be having a factory 1976 Lincoln 3-Speed Automatic C6 Transmission rebuilt, but installed with an aftermarket torque convertor and shift kit.

- Transgo Performance Shift Kit
- Dacco Performance Plus 2300-2800 Stall Torque Convertor

If anyone could direct Paul Kane towards this thread please do so. I would love to have his opinion on this! Thanks guys!!!

 

Ditch the Summit cam and timing set. They both suck. Been there done that. Cam will have lots of lope but not so great power. Timing chain, mine was junk in 1000 miles.
For your intended power level, you will need proper full porting, not just exhaust side. Stock springs are most likley not going to be part of the plan either.
Your distributor is going to need to be recurved anyhow, so you might as well get one from Scott over at Re in"Car"nation High Performance - Home
He is also the man when it comes to porting heads.

I don't see upgraded rod bolts on your list, but it should be. With car rods 5500rpm will be the absolute Max. I would at the very least get yourself a set of truck rods to put in it.

 

If you want Paul or Scott you ought to post over at 460Ford.com

A few things...

Lose the high volume pump.
It's going to be a fresh engine, and hopefully *not* set up loose as a goose.
It will only increase pumping losses (like 10 or more hp)

Deck the block, not the heads.

That cam is *never* going to get you there.

You're going to need a bigger carb..

I also have some personal biases, but I won't tell you who's snake oil not to buy.

Your best bet is to buy an Ohio or Scat complete rotating stroker assembly.
Then you will not need pistons, rings, bearings, rods reconditioned, etc.

Ultimately, you would be time and $ ahead to talk to Scott and get a complete 'kit' from him with one of his custom cam grinds based on your chassis and needs.

 

Thanks for the info guys! The only problem is I was already halfway into this build whenever I posted this thread. I currently already have the bored 0.040 block, Keith Black Hypereutectic Pistons, factory connecting rods and crankshaft, ACL Connecting Rod Bearings, Clevite Main Crankshaft Bearings, the Mr. Gasket Inline Clearview Fuel Filters and the Edelbrock 650 CFM Thunder Series AVS Off-Road Carburetor With Dual Fuel Inlet. I was hoping to work around these already purchased parts. I'm also kinda on a budget. Is there any Comp Cam kit I can buy that comes with the camshaft, valve springs, timing chain, etc. that I can install and boost the horsepower. Also, the heads have already been decked 0.012 :/ Please help guys.

 

Your numbers just aren't going to happen with that combo.

Have you had your rotating assembly balanced yet?

How deep in the hole are those pistons now?

What's the CC volume now?

 

I have had my crankshaft turnt and balanced, but as far as my entire rotating assembly..no I have not. The pistons are going to have the same stroke as the factory, but they are no longer dish pistons, but flat-tops with only a single valve relief, which should boost compression there. I want the heads decked 0.025 so my CC will decrease for higher combustion. I don't know what CC the chambers are now, but I believe factory is like 70CC. I'm having the exhaust ports ported and not the intake, because those heads have the worse exhaust port designs ever. I figured if they were ported out a little and those "smog" pump bumps where gone it would increase at lease 20 horsepower. I actually only want 375-475 horses and like 400-500 torque maximum. I plan on ditching the Summit Brand parts and just purchasing a Comp Cams kit. The only thing...which one? As far as porting the intake side, why? It has a perfect design. Also, what is recurving a distributor? I don't plan running this motor over 4,500-5,000 RPMs max due to the fact it is a 460. As far as the Melling High Volume Oil Pump...are you saying its pointless to have one? I would deck the block, but I have already decked the heads 0.012. Also, is there anyway to make that carb work? I bought the carburetor brand new for a Ford 5.9 Liter 390 build I was doing, but I read how 550 CFM and 650-700 CFM carbs have fed a 460 just fine.

 

You need quench.
Which means you need to get the pistons to zero deck.
Either by decking the block or using a piston that is taller.
Now that you've already reduced the 92cc combustion chambers in the heads, flattops are a liability.
You need pistons with taller compression height and enough dish to come out at 9.5:1 max for pump premium.

Get a 750CFM carb, and the *regular* Performer RPM manifold.
Lose the spacer and all the chrome crap.
The stock engine has a 600+ cfm carb and runs out of steam with less than 225 horse on tap even with a straight up timing set.

Like mentioned, get some truck rods and GOOD bolts for the rods and mains (like ARP)
When you get a decent set of pistons have everything balanced -including the flexplate- because you need to spin it to make power.

Yeah the oil pump is just sucking horsepower and adding heat and is not needed for what you want to do.

D3VE A2A's are FAR from the "perfect intake port".
Get the non air gap RPM, install larger valves and then port the heads using Scott's templates.
The roller rockers are nice.

Forget 4, 000-5, 000 rpm. You'll be spinning 5, 800-6, 000 to make that kind of power with your mismatched components and stock(ish) displacement.

You can't just take a random bunch of parts and throw them together and hope to make horsepower.
Start with desktop dyno or the equivalent at one of the cam makers websites and *study* how different parameters affect the numbers and the curve.

 

I had a great reply typed, but my phone ate it while posting.
My engine is zero decked, but I am also using a 97 spec bottom end, which has a taller pin height, which means longer dwell time at tdc as well as better quench. This makes it possible for me to be nearing 9.5:1 and still be 87 octane friendly if need be.
Shaving the heads without addressing quench is going to turn it into a detonation monster.

No high pressure or flow pump is needed, the 65,000 mile old stock one in my engine makes 65psi of pressure at hot, 500 rpm idle, 1000+ its pushing 75, and on a cold start I often see 85.
I run this cam: COMP Cams Xtreme Energy 4x4 Cam and Lifter Kits K34-231-4 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
A performer 750 on top of a performer rpm, heads ported per Scott, Headers, properly curved distributor, really not a fancy build at all, but it is right around 425 HP @ 5500, 505 ft/lb @ 4500, and just rising over the 400 mark at 2000.
It behaves well, pulls 18" of vacuum at 500 rpm, and has good useable power at pretty much any rpm. It does not have any really noticeable lope if I bump the idle up to 750, at 500 it is barely there, so it doesn't have that big cam sound many associate with big power, but it also doesn't have the poor behaviour.
I would love to try this engine in a truck that was on a more sensible tire, with what it will do on 44's I think it would be a ton of fun on 35's.

Just because a 460 is a big engine does not mean it is a low rpm unit, it is still an under square engine, and by nature when the stroke is shorter than the bore is wide, RPM happens. Mine regularly makes use of its rev limiter, and not just the 2 step...

 

So what kind of pistons do you suggest ArdWrknTrk? I will keep in mind the valuable advice you have given me. I just bought a used Ford 460 out of a Ford truck today, so I plan on forgetting about the Lincoln 460 build and starting over.

 

Here's my new plans for the rebuild:


- Block bored 0.030 over.
- Engine block set at zero deck.


Along with the info provided below by DJ:


425-450HP 460ci

Intake System:

750cfm Holley DP professionally calibrated for your application
Edelbrock Performer Rpm Intake Manifold

Cylinder Heads:

D0VE head with mild port job, chambers polished, and port match
(315-ish/180-ish cfm @.600)
Intake valve size 2.08
Exhaust valve size 1.65
Roller rockers.

Short Block:

Comp Cam Custom Spec Hydraulic flat tappet cam or equivalent
Based on the Xtreme Energy Hydraulic Series
Intake Lobe 5443 and Exhaust Lobe 5203
(Specs:268/280 adv., 224/230@.050, .524/.544 lift, 110 LSA)
Compression around 9.5:1
Stock crank
Stock rods with good bolts
Standard volume oil pump
Stock oil pan with windage tray

Exhaust:

1 7/8" headers to dual 2.5" pipes with H-pipe. Good flowing 2.5" Magnaflow mufflers or equivalent.

Summary:

91-octane. Keep redline to 6000 rpm.


What kind of pistons should I use?


Since I plan on using that Dacco Torque Convertor I guess I'll be aiming for the high 6,000 RPM mark.

 

I see you found the big-block ford site.

 

No 81ChopTop, I was trying to work around the torque convertor since I can't return it, but whatever you suggest? I want a truck that will take right out of the hole. Can you please help? I'll trade in the torque convertor if need be.

 

You are not going to know what oversize to drill the bores to until first measuring them and determining out-of-roundness or other damage. Same goes for the crankshaft.

This is the kind of stuff you work *with* a machinist on.

 

Well I know it will be between 0.030-0.060. The motor only has 186,532 miles on it. As far as the crank if it is bad, or anything I have another crank I know is good. The motor was running whenever I pulled it out.

 

The people here are very willing to help you make the build right. There's a ton of experience on here. You seem to be all over the place in deciding which way you want to go. I realize you are excited about the build and am in need of a little help, but I think you need to really think about the build and don't get crazy on the parts/money just yet. Plan everything out first, then start buying parts. I'm sure just about every one has been in this predicament on one of their first engines, just slow down a bit and do a bit more research so we can give you valuable answers with recommendations to parts that we know first-hand that work. I'm not sure if you read my reply in the camshaft thread about parts before I dumped it, but I had a ton on info in there. Maybe I should have put it here.