any update?

 

I think I found the my problem. I will update you guys once I am done. Thanks you all for all the help. I really appreciate it.

 

any updates?

 

Anyone know the OP? Some closure to this thread would be nice!

 

My head job is done and I replaced the EGR Cooler but I can't get the truck to start. My HPOP pressure dose not go above 70 and my IPR reads 83.9. These numbers don't change. I have checked my IPR several times and it look like it's not clogged. I have installed new dummy plugs, stand pipes and STC. All I can think of is that it has a leak some where. Where can I buy a tool to check for leaks? Or even make one if it is possible. Any advice would be greatly appreciate it. Thanks,

 

Did you try starting it with the ICP unplugged?

 

navistarnut,
what is the ICP?

 

I believe you have a later build, so your ICP should be on you passenger side valve cover.

 

I have not tried it. what will that do?

 

It will fake the computer into thinking you have enough HPO pressure to run the engine. The engine won't try to fire if it thinks pressure is low. It won't hurt anything to try it.

 

I disconnected the ICP and it still did not turn on. I am going to check for an oil leak. Just ordered the part to check. I will give you guys updates later.

 

Got my tool for check leaks. It's the one you install on the oil rail. I installed it on the driver side and I think it sounded good and no leaks, I think. Then I installed it on the passenger side and I hear air coming out down in the block. Is this normal or do I have a big leak deep in my block. Any advice or suggestions if its a leak or normal. Please help.

 

Air test should be no leaks. Make sure the IPR is closed, you may need to run 12v to it to command it closed.

 

Can anyone please tell me how to place 12V to my IPR. Do I need to buy a separate harness for it? How can I do it with out having to go out to buy tools or a harness. Thanking you guys in advance,

 

4 ways to close IPR

IMO the air test is not worth doing unless you hard pipe the air supply (ie the rubber tipped air tubing applied to the ICP hole is not reliable).

If you can't close the IPR valve for whatever reason, then it definitely is not worth doing.

4 ways to close the IPR:
1. Software like IDS to comand it closed (maybe AutoEnginuity will do it)
2. Buy an IPR connector and wire it up to apply switched power to close it: Red wire switched power Pin A: apply B+; Yellow/red switched ground Pin B: Apply B-
3. You can close it by having the key in the RUN position, and jumping pin #2 of C1381c (the middle of the three PCM connectors between the driver side battery and the inner driver side fender well which requires the battery cover removed to access) which will be a yellow wire with red stripe. This is the ground side wire to the IPR.
4. Tool to close the IPR: Automotive Tool Web-site - DenLors Tools; OTC 6764 Ford Diesel 6.0L IPR Controller / Tester

OTC 6764 Ford Diesel 6.0L IPR Controller / Tester | Multimeters, Amp Clamps, Test Leads tml


Don't hold the IPR valve closed for more than 2 minutes. I have been told it is OK to do it longer, but I don't want to put someone elses IPR valve at risk.