Re-thinking Adding A/C
#1
Re-thinking Adding A/C
I really don't like the idea of hanging an additional accessory on my beautiful Flathead and I really haven't seen any "A/C Kits" I liked the look of.
Vents hanging under the dash are not very flattering to our old trucks look.
Not only converting to 12 volt but an alternator in place of the generator. I don't know. The generator is also part of that "look". And I like that look.
I like the sound of a 6 volt Flathead cranking over.
BUT...................It's winter here in AZ. right now. And this is how I feel....................right now.
When it hits 100 I "might" change my mind........... DAMMIT!!!!!!!!!!
Vents hanging under the dash are not very flattering to our old trucks look.
Not only converting to 12 volt but an alternator in place of the generator. I don't know. The generator is also part of that "look". And I like that look.
I like the sound of a 6 volt Flathead cranking over.
BUT...................It's winter here in AZ. right now. And this is how I feel....................right now.
When it hits 100 I "might" change my mind........... DAMMIT!!!!!!!!!!
#2
I would honestly expect that it could end up costing at least $3k to add it, even making some of the brackets yourself and doing some clever stuff. Unclear how you could kick up the idle when the compressor engages, or the electric fan.
It gets plenty warm here in the summers, but I'm generally not out driving around when it's 100. As long as the truck is moving, it's comfortable enough even in the high 90's. My white roof helps.
It gets plenty warm here in the summers, but I'm generally not out driving around when it's 100. As long as the truck is moving, it's comfortable enough even in the high 90's. My white roof helps.
#4
I have used solenoids from older carbureted cars that were for idle up. I'm sure I could make it work. Just don't think I really want to.
I have a Toyota steering box and pump "in case" I decided on power steering. Don't think I'm doing that either.
I think I've decide to stay "mainly" stock. I did stick a T98 and a Dana 60 in it though.
A dual reservoir master cylinder will make it safer. Might go discs up front if I need brake drums. Seems to be hard to find drums.
Maybe I can mount windshield squirters on the INSIDE so I can take advantage of our DRY HEAT and have EVAPORATIVE COOLING!!! Like patio misters.
I actually have all the 12 volt conversion stuff too.
I have a Toyota steering box and pump "in case" I decided on power steering. Don't think I'm doing that either.
I think I've decide to stay "mainly" stock. I did stick a T98 and a Dana 60 in it though.
A dual reservoir master cylinder will make it safer. Might go discs up front if I need brake drums. Seems to be hard to find drums.
Maybe I can mount windshield squirters on the INSIDE so I can take advantage of our DRY HEAT and have EVAPORATIVE COOLING!!! Like patio misters.
I actually have all the 12 volt conversion stuff too.
#5
I really don't like the idea of hanging an additional accessory on my beautiful Flathead and I really haven't seen any "A/C Kits" I liked the look of.
Vents hanging under the dash are not very flattering to our old trucks look.
Not only converting to 12 volt but an alternator in place of the generator. I don't know. The generator is also part of that "look". And I like that look.
I like the sound of a 6 volt Flathead cranking over.
BUT...................It's winter here in AZ. right now. And this is how I feel....................right now.
When it hits 100 I "might" change my mind........... DAMMIT!!!!!!!!!!
Vents hanging under the dash are not very flattering to our old trucks look.
Not only converting to 12 volt but an alternator in place of the generator. I don't know. The generator is also part of that "look". And I like that look.
I like the sound of a 6 volt Flathead cranking over.
BUT...................It's winter here in AZ. right now. And this is how I feel....................right now.
When it hits 100 I "might" change my mind........... DAMMIT!!!!!!!!!!
PowerGEN
#6
There are remote mount electric AC compressors that would let you keep your engine compartment clean JEGS Remote Mount Electric A/C Compressor | JEGS Performance Products and you might be able to mount an aftermarket under dash unit behind or under the seat. You would still need to mount a condenser in front of the radiator.
#7
There are remote mount electric AC compressors that would let you keep your engine compartment clean JEGS Remote Mount Electric A/C Compressor | JEGS Performance Products and you might be able to mount an aftermarket under dash unit behind or under the seat. You would still need to mount a condenser in front of the radiator.
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#8
These are very popular in some parts of the globe, especially with the sporty car guys. A couple of things to look at if you are thinking about a remote compressor: they run on electricity so be sure your have enough juice coming out of your alternator to handle the load and they are not as efficient as a belt driven pump...look at the BTU ratings and consider the amount of cubic feet of air space that you are trying to cool before you commit. I looked into these a couple of years ago and the sparkle dimmed just a bit as I learned more about them. Almost forgot...do you know what a refrigerator sounds like, get used to having that sound somewhere in your cab every time you run your A/C.
#10
I'm going to continue my build without A/C and see how it goes this summer. I'm not sure how the carburetor is going to do in the heat either.
My daughter's 66 Mustang doesn't do well on the super hot days. This oxygenated AZ. gas just boils off in this heat. And that's after insulating the fuel line, insulating carb spacer and electric fuel pump.
I may need an old school cool can. A 5 gal bucket size cool can.
This summer will be the deciding factor. Thanks again for all the feedback.
Scott
My daughter's 66 Mustang doesn't do well on the super hot days. This oxygenated AZ. gas just boils off in this heat. And that's after insulating the fuel line, insulating carb spacer and electric fuel pump.
I may need an old school cool can. A 5 gal bucket size cool can.
This summer will be the deciding factor. Thanks again for all the feedback.
Scott
#11
When I'm working on one of our fireboats I'm wedged in between a pair of Cummins 903s - tight fit and hotter than hades in the summer. About six years ago I bought a Coolshirt, basically a t-shirt with 40 some feet of small surgical tubing stitched on it. Came with a fanny pack that holds a small plastic bottle of water that you freeze and a tiny pump, powered by a camcorder battery, that circulates water through the tubing. Extremely effective but only good for about fifteen minutes. I've since pitched the fanny pack, attached the pump and a Makita 7.2v battery I had laying around to a mini Igloo cooler that I tote with about 6' of hose attached. Good for a couple hours now. I wouldn't pay the ~$600 they want for it (work tool allowance paid for mine) but they're easy enough to rig up yourself. A couple no-leak quick disconnects and you're golden. Or stitch the tubing to an easy to slip on/off vest and forego the disconnects. Added bonus is being able to wear anywhere - yardwork, boating, fishing, etc.
Or... I have seen a couple guys rig up compressors that were driven from a pulley mounted on the driveshaft as it exits the trans. Mount the evaporator under the seat. Works pretty well, until sitting in a traffic jam...
Or... I have seen a couple guys rig up compressors that were driven from a pulley mounted on the driveshaft as it exits the trans. Mount the evaporator under the seat. Works pretty well, until sitting in a traffic jam...
#12
I have added A/C to my 53 sedan with disappointing results. I did this to a 215 six powered sedan so your install would be different, but hopefully I can add some thoughts based on experience.
I also refuse to install an alternator. They just look wrong. I found a 60 amp 12V generator and matching regulator on ebay. These come up once or twice a year. That solved my 12V with lots of amps issue.
Next I needed an evaporator that didn't look terrible in a 53 sedan. I have it better than you do since the car has a wider dashboard and chrome looks OK in the Customline interior. I found an under dash unit from a 63-64 Galaxie. It looks ok, but if I was to do it again (and I will get to...) I would purchase the reproduction Mark IV.
Next was the compressor. I used a heavy duty Sanden compressor that I now think is larger capacity than ideal. Now I would use the small displacement unit typically recommended for hotrod use. I have seen a good looking install of a Sanden on a wide belt flathead. Make your own brackets and install the compressor below the distributor on the passenger side. Hard mount the compressor so that the belt lines up with the fan pulley. Use the fan for belt adjustment. Paint the brackets and compressor black and it all fades into the background a bit.
For condenser I used a modern high efficiency parallel flow condenser. It does a great job of cooling the R134 down. It also does a great job of blocking air flow through my radiator. Before installing the condenser I was running a 195 F thermostat just to get my six to warm up to 180. Now I am running a 160 F thermostat and I have to turn off the A/C if the outside temperature gets over 85. Basically, if it is hot enough to want air, I can't run it. I have since purchased an old design single path copper A/C condenser with the idea that it won't block so much air to my radiator. Time will tell if I get satisfactory air in my tour car.
One of my friends in Houston has an entirely different experience with A/C on a flathead. He has a 1941 Mercury fordor sedan. This is basically the biggest car Ford Motor Company ever bolted a 239 flathead into. My friend installed the budget flathead kit with the three outlet plastic bodied evaporator, modern aluminum condenser in front of the radiator, and alternator. At first he had hot running issues like I did. However he simply moved his condenser forward a foot in front of the radiator (there is that much room between the radiator and grill in that car) and everything works great now. I rode in the car last June and was comfortable in the back seat.
My apologies for such a long post.
I also refuse to install an alternator. They just look wrong. I found a 60 amp 12V generator and matching regulator on ebay. These come up once or twice a year. That solved my 12V with lots of amps issue.
Next I needed an evaporator that didn't look terrible in a 53 sedan. I have it better than you do since the car has a wider dashboard and chrome looks OK in the Customline interior. I found an under dash unit from a 63-64 Galaxie. It looks ok, but if I was to do it again (and I will get to...) I would purchase the reproduction Mark IV.
Next was the compressor. I used a heavy duty Sanden compressor that I now think is larger capacity than ideal. Now I would use the small displacement unit typically recommended for hotrod use. I have seen a good looking install of a Sanden on a wide belt flathead. Make your own brackets and install the compressor below the distributor on the passenger side. Hard mount the compressor so that the belt lines up with the fan pulley. Use the fan for belt adjustment. Paint the brackets and compressor black and it all fades into the background a bit.
For condenser I used a modern high efficiency parallel flow condenser. It does a great job of cooling the R134 down. It also does a great job of blocking air flow through my radiator. Before installing the condenser I was running a 195 F thermostat just to get my six to warm up to 180. Now I am running a 160 F thermostat and I have to turn off the A/C if the outside temperature gets over 85. Basically, if it is hot enough to want air, I can't run it. I have since purchased an old design single path copper A/C condenser with the idea that it won't block so much air to my radiator. Time will tell if I get satisfactory air in my tour car.
One of my friends in Houston has an entirely different experience with A/C on a flathead. He has a 1941 Mercury fordor sedan. This is basically the biggest car Ford Motor Company ever bolted a 239 flathead into. My friend installed the budget flathead kit with the three outlet plastic bodied evaporator, modern aluminum condenser in front of the radiator, and alternator. At first he had hot running issues like I did. However he simply moved his condenser forward a foot in front of the radiator (there is that much room between the radiator and grill in that car) and everything works great now. I rode in the car last June and was comfortable in the back seat.
My apologies for such a long post.
#13
#14
#15
Thanks Fred. What's probably going to happen with me is I'll want A/C when it's 100 friggin degrees here.
I have pieced together systems before and they have been working for years in my kid's cars. If I see a unit I can hide under the dash I like I may pick it up. I like your idea of mounting the Sanden below the distributor. I can make my own mounts and hoses.
I think I'm going to drive it without and when I'm roasting in the summer either suck it up or park it until it's cooler.
The hot summers will be what motivates me to design a system I like and install it if I just can't handle the heat. I have other trucks to drive.
I guess we'll see this summer how much I really like driving my F3.
Thanks for the ideas everyone.
Scott
I have pieced together systems before and they have been working for years in my kid's cars. If I see a unit I can hide under the dash I like I may pick it up. I like your idea of mounting the Sanden below the distributor. I can make my own mounts and hoses.
I think I'm going to drive it without and when I'm roasting in the summer either suck it up or park it until it's cooler.
The hot summers will be what motivates me to design a system I like and install it if I just can't handle the heat. I have other trucks to drive.
I guess we'll see this summer how much I really like driving my F3.
Thanks for the ideas everyone.
Scott