I have a 2007 Ford F-150 SuperCrew Lariat (with Sunroof) that the Front Interior Dome Lights are not working in. I mention the Sunroof because there is a switch to operate the sunroof in the same panel as the front dome lights. The Sunroof switch works just fine though.

However, the back dome light does work. I would've thought these were on the same line but my thinking is probably wrong. So far I've pulled the front panel where the dome lights are located and checked the bulbs. The filiments are not broken at all and the bulbs seem to be good. I then went hunting for the Fuse box and looked through the user manual to see which fuse corresponds to those front lights. However, I've been unable to determine which fuse it is.

So I guess the questions I have are:

1.) Does anybody know why the front dome lights would NOT be working and the rear dome lights are? Are these not on the same line?
2.) Which fuse corresponds to the front dome lights?
3.) What relay corresponds to the front dome lights?
4.) Do I need to disconnect the battery before messing with any of these fuses or relays?

Troubleshooting steps at this point?

 

I have the wiring diagram for the 2004 (I can't say for sure it will be exactly the same for the 2007)

it would appear the vanity lights (in the visor mirrors) and the front and rear map lights (the ones that are switchable at the light) are powered by fuse 24 (through the battery saver relay) in the central junction box.

as for the dome lights (come on automatically) and the cargo lights (mounted to the back of the cab to light the bed) are all controlled by and powered through the instrument cluster microprocessor (and are all wired together)

power to the dome lights is a Black/Blue wire and power for the map lights is Light Green/Orange (the diagrams show them as separate bulbs I don't know if they actually are or just shown that way). I would start by checking for voltage at the bulb socket (when the rear dome lights are on) and then verify the sockets have a good ground (they all appear to be grounded together in the drivers kick panel).

I see no reason to disconnect the battery to check fuses/relays (i have never done it and have never had a problem)

the "roof opening panel" is a completely separate system.

I hope this is helpful.
-Brad

 

Did you find the fix for this? I'm having the same issue.

 

Mine had issues with connectivity. The plastic got pretty warped and when I got the truck I started on lights. I found my dome lights were not maintaining connection from the copper to the metal on the light itself, so I replaced one dome light entirely. Whatever you do, spend the money on LED's. They are so much better, don't get as hot, last longer and are brighter.

 

Be careful with LED's, especially cheap ones you might get at your local auto parts store, especially turn signal bulbs. This is because the flasher in most vehicles utilize relays that are designed for incandescent bulbs, and LED bulbs will require resistors in order to function and not cause electrical issues throughout the vehicle's electrical system. I've personally had issues swapping out old bulbs for LED's (especially turn signals and dome lights) causing other things to not work properly, like brake lights, cluster lights, etc..

Also, be careful swapping out to LED headlights. A lot of LED headlights are considerably brighter than standard halogen or even Xenon lights. The legal requirement is that headlights cannot be greater than 55 watts, but that was written before the advent of low-wattage LED's. Now you can get LED's with the equivalent lighting effect of a 100 watt bulb, which only actually uses less than 20 watts. I'm sure there will be changes to the law soon.

 

Yes, I had to add a resistor to the 3rd brake light because it was tripping the cruise control... gj FORD... so that was the best way they thought of to let you know your 3rd brake light is out... disable your cruise control... I suspect there are more models without a 3rd brake light and functioning cruise control because the average person would have no idea and just give up. Anyways... All other bulbs, the only other ones requiring a new relay was the turns and rear brake/turn lights which are all tied to the same relay under the dash above the parking brake. Real easy. As for the headlights, I only have the "brightest" version of standard bulbs. They are plenty good enough for me. But the interior ones was a simple swap. Even the dash bulbs.