Thanks.

I read back through the thread, and its not clear what transmission/engine the OP currently has. He seems to be looking for an external slave model, but may currently have a internal slave mounted to a small block. So what do you currently have OP?

 

He says in post #1 "'95 F250" and in post#2 "my 351"... so ZF5 & internal slave only.

 

Ah! Missed that I guess.

So the OP wouldn't have the rubber plug, or the external slave to measure, and furthermore, wouldnt be able to replace his ZF5 with an external slave model due to differing bolt patterns.

 

Sorry I was thinking of the M5OD in my ranger

 

As far as I know all I'll be towing with this rig is a horse trailer on occasion and a 1000 pound plus hay bail once a week or less and will be used to feed cattle and will be driven nearly daily when I start overhauling and possibly rebuilding my other trucks engine

 

Would an LUK brand slave be equivalent to the motorcraft slave? I can't seem to find a motorcraft slave anywhere.

 

Sachs is a division of ZF, so I'd imagine that is what you'd find OEM.

LuK is a good clutch in my experience.
I wouldn't hesitate to use it.

 

http://m.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Ford-Clutc...-/401025119284

 

Double check that part number, I think it was good to a build date of 8/94. Fordsparts.com will give you motorcraft numbers, then use those numbers to find your best price.

 

That's an external slave (for 460 & diesel trucks)

It's the damn internal (concentric) slave of the Windsor pattern gearboxes that make replacing it so troublesome & expensive.

 

Exactly, the truck I'm working on isn't mine so it is that much more important to do it right.

 

OK so I picked up a new master cylinder today gonna put it on tomorrow if the warm weather stays holding up. I found the bleed screw to bleed the system when I get the new master cylinder put on. Is there anything special I need to do to bleed the air out of everything or do I just need to have someone down below to shut off the bleeder and reopen it as I'm pumping the clutch?

 

NOPE, you do not "pump" the clutch and bleed like brakes. You need to read a manual or look at some u tube videos how to do this properly. Basically from memory you fill the reservoir and then go under and crack the screw to let the fluid trickle out (and allows the air bubbles to rise). I found that loosening the master cylinder bolts where the assembly went thru the firewall so that the line was tilted to allow the air bubbles to rise helped .....

 

That is news to me. That is how I have been bleeding these hydraulic clutches for 20+ years.




VERY similar to bleeding brakes. Just lay under the truck and have assistant in the cab. Have them push down the clutch pedal and as they start to push down, you open the bleeder. Once they bottom out the pedal, close the bleeder. have them let up and repeat. Keep doing until no more air bubbles(dont forget to check fluid level every 3-4 pumps)

 

I leave the bleeder open until clear fluid is flowing and then bleed the slave just like a brake caliper.

You don't need to stand on it, just hold the pedal down and push it to the end of its stroke before closing the bleeder.