**clutch** pedal...

 

Yes it sticks but does spring back when I put my foot under it and pick it back up with my foot and yes I have checked the fluid and it's full. I've read possiblely the plunger in worn in the master cylinder and letting fluid back past it?

 

Would a performance clutch be worth the money? If so what kind would ya recommend?

 

That sounds like a problem with the pedal assy. It should stay up on its own when you lift it.

 

It sounds like you simply need to bleed the clutch better and you may be back in business. The other thing it could be is play in the pedal shaft, brackets. There is also a nylon bushing when attaching the piston rod to the pedal assembly. The only way to know is get under there and see if there is any play between the parts .... If you check all those things and repair a firmer pedal at the top should reappear ...

 

Like others have said. Sounds like air in the system and or the pedal itself binding

 

You did remove the rubber cup under the cap when you checked the fluid in the master cylinder? If you didn't and it looked full, I realize somebody would have had to add fluid above the cup.

In my experience when the slave cylinder goes bad the fluid will leak out of the slave cylinder and a fast rate.

 

Yes I did removed the rubber cup. I have noticed fluid dripping from the tranny near the bellhousing. For a little while if you'd double clutch it'd work but now it won't work at all and it takes way to long to feel any resiatence at all when pushing the clutch in

 

I never had a master cylinder fail on one of these, so I don't know if they can fail and not leak the fluid out.

If the linkage to the master cylinder looks good, you can pretty well check it out by sticking your head under the dash and watching the rod that goes into the master cylinder while pushing the clutch pedal down with your hand, I would be inclined to replace the master cylinder before tackling the slave cylinder. Just my opinion of course.

 

How about measuring the throw of the slave

It needs to have 1/2" of movement

 

How do I check that?
I may replace the master cylinder (45$ so that's a good place to start if you ask me) then work my way from there if a new master cylinder doesn't fix it

 

Remove the rubber plug in the bell housing and look at how far it moves

 

Do the bigblock/diesel pattern with external slave have a rubber plug? I don't recall the small block patter zf having one, but maybe you could still see it behind the bleed port for the internal slave. I may be mistaken.

 

External slave trucks only have a rubber boot around the release arm.
For external slave applications the spec is ~5/8" (.625) *at the slave*

 

Heard centerforce is good but you will pay for it. I went with a LUK clutch kit and flywheel because it was only about 200 total, and LUK make the motorcraft clutch components.

Are you competitively pulling sleds or towing above GCVWR enough to make a stock clutch slip?