Exhaust back pressure valve noise?
#1
Exhaust back pressure valve noise?
I found the post below after researching the noise I have been experiencing. His description of my noise is right on. I saw some comments this may be related to the exhaust back pressure valve. My question, is the noise I hear just the valve functioning as designed during cold weather or is something broken or out of adjustment? Besides the hiss, the engine also sounds different while the hiss is happening.
"Old post"
This is stumping me... it only happens when it is cold out.. like below 40. Then, the colder it is, the worse it is. The symptoms go away when the engine warms up, unless it is below like 30 then it stays longer. Didn't happen all summer, now that it is getting cold again, it is back. It sounds like a really bad vacuum leak, and only during light acceleration or "maintaining" speed. If I accelerate hard, or back off to idle, it goes away. Today, when the sound came on, I tried to make it go away by accelerating and it was like there was no response to putting the pedal down for a while. I had to put it all the way to the floor to get more power-- and then it went away- until I went back to maintaining speed. I don't seem to be able to replicate it unless I am driving so it is a bit hard to diagnose. Ideas?
"Old post"
This is stumping me... it only happens when it is cold out.. like below 40. Then, the colder it is, the worse it is. The symptoms go away when the engine warms up, unless it is below like 30 then it stays longer. Didn't happen all summer, now that it is getting cold again, it is back. It sounds like a really bad vacuum leak, and only during light acceleration or "maintaining" speed. If I accelerate hard, or back off to idle, it goes away. Today, when the sound came on, I tried to make it go away by accelerating and it was like there was no response to putting the pedal down for a while. I had to put it all the way to the floor to get more power-- and then it went away- until I went back to maintaining speed. I don't seem to be able to replicate it unless I am driving so it is a bit hard to diagnose. Ideas?
#2
there basically is a butterfly valve in the exhaust side of the turbo that is the EBPV.
The whooosh and hiss sound are from it closing.
The reason the motor sounds funny is because its essentially running on natural aspiration instead of forced air.
You will have basically no power until it opens up because its blocking the turbo from spooling.
Since its oil operated in the turbo pedestal, its not instantaneous when it opens and closes thus thats why its so weird to drive when you have the issue.
The whooosh and hiss sound are from it closing.
The reason the motor sounds funny is because its essentially running on natural aspiration instead of forced air.
You will have basically no power until it opens up because its blocking the turbo from spooling.
Since its oil operated in the turbo pedestal, its not instantaneous when it opens and closes thus thats why its so weird to drive when you have the issue.
#3
Best thing to do, while the truck is cold, is to reach behidn the turbo and unplug the EBPV sensor and just wire the EBPV open with some wire.
That will stop it from trying to accuate it.
You might get a CEL on the dash, (dont remember)
The system is really ... well, bad.
It's a huge potential leak, plus the issues you are seeing.
Most of us just delete it.
That will stop it from trying to accuate it.
You might get a CEL on the dash, (dont remember)
The system is really ... well, bad.
It's a huge potential leak, plus the issues you are seeing.
Most of us just delete it.
#4
#5
Think of the EBPV like jamming a set of fish nets in your tailpipe, but rather up near the down pipe. The truck will make very little power since it can not exhale properly, but blocking the exhaust gasses assists in warming the motor. The EBPV solenoid should open the butterfly (actuator rod&piston) once it see an increase in oil pressure from idle, if its not opening unplug and wire open the butterfly, or replace the seals on the solenoid. I'd suggest deleting the entire unit and using a deleted pedestal if you go that route. Its actually cheaper than replacing the components with OE parts.
#6
#7
as mentioned, you accelerate/increase Engine RPM...oil pressure increases actuating the butterfly to open. If a seal has completely failed, then the exhaust pressure is opening the bf and the solenoid isn't doing anything. Unplug it and wire it open and see if this helps, takes a matter of 10 minutes.
Do I think functioning correctly, probably not since it was not doing this before, correct?
Do I think functioning correctly, probably not since it was not doing this before, correct?
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#13
You will appreciate a deleted pedestal come next time you have to take it out....
#14
unplugging it wont hurt anything and will save you a ton of headaches while driving like you're already experiencing.
#15
Easy to take off, im planning e-fuel in the not so distant future
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