I am just starting on this project,
New to old fords, all help is better than non.

No spark,
Took distributor to philbingroup, had rebuild, install
(Correctly yes)

No spark at plug,

1. 6v positive to ground?

2. How to test all components.

3. Slow turn over ? Normal for old engines.

Happy news year.....

 

Welcome to the board! I find that when trouble shooting electrical that simple test light is my best friend. If I were in your shoes this is what I would do. If indeed you are hooked up positive ground, I would put the alligator clip on the ground cable or post. Touch the test light to the other post and make sure it is working properly. Next turn the ignition switch on and touch the wire going to your coil and see if it is lighting up, or better yet remove the wire from coil and try it. You should have three wires on the coil 2 small and one spark plug wire size. I am talking about the small wire coming from the wire loom. If it is hot your switch is ok, if not you have switch issues check this out and if need be we will continue on.

 

Slow cranking could be due to bad/insufficient grounds. I ran heavy ground cables (00) from cab to frame and engine to frame and it solved my slow cranking problem. Good luck.

 

Do all the above and if you get spark and still slow crank/no start then jump with 12 volts neg to neg, pos to pos. Sometimes after a long sleep these things get stiff and just running is the best medicine. Don't leave jumpers on after it starts, little bit ok. After it's all lubed and oily inside she should start on six. Good luck and let us know how it goes. Getting one of these old things running again is pretty much the second best feeling in the world.....

 

I can not argue with that number 2 position

 

Well after finding 6v positive to ground. I got spark .
Fix a coil problem. But tomorrow will be a full look over wires,
I think I have a ton to learn about the +to ground, push button switch, key switch, all sorts of things that I belive are getting faulty conection, any help on this, just sand and clean paint off all conection and old rusty pits, and ohh my all the wiring is brittle and is very worysome.

 

I believe I have a intermittent switch issue,

 

If it has been a long while since anyone has messed with this truck I would probably run the switch back and forth quite a bit to maybe get rid of some residue that is on it. The wiring in your truck is probably better than you think. At that time they used real wire on them. If you see some frayed areas or something real questionable I would tape them up for now. Wiring in these old girls is not rocket science and it is real easy to rewire them, however new wire looms are available. Did you get your motor to spin?

 

Yes I did get it fired up. Gas in carb and would run a few seconds. But would not start back up each time.
And like I said very slow cranking. It has been so long what should I set the carburetor at, full choke, full throttle.
Iv not messed with a carb in many years.

 

Full choke, 1/4 throttle. If you run an alligator clip jumper wire from the neg batter terminal to the neg on the coil, this will bypass the resistor. Lots of farmers bypassed the resistor on a permanent basis on ford tractors for easier starting. Points just don't last as long. It won't hurt if you do this for a while. Many vehicles had a built in bypass circuit just for starting. I hope you don't use the fuel tank as they usually have horrible crud in them. I use a 6 gallon outboard motor tank with a squeeze ball either plumbed into the fuel pump inlet or strapped to the roof and plumbed right into the carb, Model A style gravity feed. The pump ball is excellent for making sure the float bowl on carb is full.

 

The issue with old cars and trucks is rust and corrosion in the cables and ground connections. This is often a significant issue even today in just a few years, after 50, 60 or 70+ it's a wonder they work at all. Rule of thumb: If a connection is not clean and bright and tight, it's bad.

Also starters suck up excessive current when they have been abused or aged, couple that on top of all the corroded connections, and there isn't any juice left over for the ignition and it will start very difficult if at all.

 

[QUOTE=GB SISSON;15912293]Full choke, 1/4 throttle. If you run an alligator clip jumper wire from the neg batter terminal to the neg on the coil, this will bypass the resistor. Lots of farmers bypassed the resistor on a permanent basis on ford tractors for easier starting. Points just don't last as long. It won't hurt if you do this for a while. Many vehicles had a built in bypass circuit just for starting. I hope you don't use the fuel tank as they usually have horrible crud in them. I use a 6 gallon outboard motor tank with a squeeze ball either plumbed into the fuel pump inlet or strapped to the roof and plumbed right into the carb, Model A style gravity feed. The pump ball is excellent for making sure the float bowl on carb is full.[/QUOT





Thanks guys.

 

Slow cranking, starter drawing too much juice, nothing left to make spark, typical issue on old 6 volt vehicles. Back in the day we switched a lot of them to 8 volt, tweeked the regulator up and not enough to blow bulbs. I've even seen some AD chevy trucks a local mechanic put 2 batterys in and a series/parallel so the starter got 12 volts. Both band aid fixes IMO.
An old machinist fixed my dad's 53 International when I was a kid by turning a little off the armature so it didn't drag when warm. You might check the starter bushings and replace if the slow cranking still exists after making sure all the connections are good.

 

Thanks.
This is what I am leaning 2. Just bad conection, and possibly a starter rebuild. I will pull it in the next day or so and give it a bench test, see how she spins. She turns over in a lope. A few slow ones, than a good one few slow ones than maybe a few good ones all in a matter of 6 turns or so.

 

If you've never pulled this type of starter, remember that it WILL fall apart if you pull out the bolts the whole way. The bolts that hold it on also hold it together.