Urgent! Need help! no start missing oil!
#17
ok update guys, so last night i installed my new lpop, when i took the old one out i found a good amount of oil behind the harmonic balancer retaining bolt, and the seals looked trashed. replaced the pump topped off oil in the truck not the reservoir and in about 10 seconds she started up, so this to me is a great sign because the old pump would not do this, now today i will be pulling the down pipe off a bit to see if i have any wet oil. and a reminder o do not have any leaks that i know of. radiator level is great no oil, oil is not milky, not burning any smoke, she is powerful. i will bring update after that!
#19
I still don't understand how the oil disappeared unless it was getting into the engine and being burnt off, in which case you should have seen blue smoke. If the HPOP or LPOP were leaking there would be one heck of a mess in and around the engine bay or if the drain plug were leaking you would have a huge puddle of oil or at least a trail of it as you were driving down the road? Oil doesn't just disappear, especially on the amount your taking over the time frame you mentioned?
#21
#22
Have you checked the torque on your injectors? If one is really low (IIRC 50 inch pounds is considered the lower limit to replace the orings anyway) it may give some direction as to which injector could be causing issues. (If one is loose anyway)
I would replace all the rings if i was going to the trouble of pulling one injector anyway, at least you reduce the chance of chasing this rabbit again in the near future If another print failed. At least you have a decent starting point for all then.
I would replace all the rings if i was going to the trouble of pulling one injector anyway, at least you reduce the chance of chasing this rabbit again in the near future If another print failed. At least you have a decent starting point for all then.
#23
#26
#27
Copied and pasted from another thread
The test is used to determine and help narrow down the source of a high pressure oil leak.
By removing one or both of the high pressure oil lines from the head (or the pump if one was so inclined), a person effectively isolates the oil rails from the rest of the high pressure system. By using compressed ("shop") air and a blow gun (preferably one with a rubber tip to minimize leakage), it's possible to hear a high pressure oil leak to diagnose injector or injector o-ring problems without first removing the valve covers. By doing this, the high pressure oil pump and injection pressure regulator are isolated and NOT tested (or botching the test). Besides, it's impossible to hear a leak with the engine cranking since there's a lot of noise present. Sure, a person experiencing low injection pressure (too low to allow a start condition) could remove the valve covers and watch for oil leaks....but that involves actually removing the valve covers and cranking the engine and watching for oil at the same time.
If there happens to be a high pressure oil leak on or near the injectors large enough to cause a no-start condition, using pressurized air is a quick and easy way to find out which side AND which hole is the culprit. Just be sure to cover the tip of the air gun with a rag just in case you don't find a leaking injector/o-ring....you'll be wearing 120-ish PSI of oil spray otherwise when you remove the blow gun nozzle from the oil line fitting.
The test is used to determine and help narrow down the source of a high pressure oil leak.
By removing one or both of the high pressure oil lines from the head (or the pump if one was so inclined), a person effectively isolates the oil rails from the rest of the high pressure system. By using compressed ("shop") air and a blow gun (preferably one with a rubber tip to minimize leakage), it's possible to hear a high pressure oil leak to diagnose injector or injector o-ring problems without first removing the valve covers. By doing this, the high pressure oil pump and injection pressure regulator are isolated and NOT tested (or botching the test). Besides, it's impossible to hear a leak with the engine cranking since there's a lot of noise present. Sure, a person experiencing low injection pressure (too low to allow a start condition) could remove the valve covers and watch for oil leaks....but that involves actually removing the valve covers and cranking the engine and watching for oil at the same time.
If there happens to be a high pressure oil leak on or near the injectors large enough to cause a no-start condition, using pressurized air is a quick and easy way to find out which side AND which hole is the culprit. Just be sure to cover the tip of the air gun with a rag just in case you don't find a leaking injector/o-ring....you'll be wearing 120-ish PSI of oil spray otherwise when you remove the blow gun nozzle from the oil line fitting.
#28
I tried the Cody test when I was chasing my issue. It makes a mess. If you can make a connection that threads into the oil port and put a quick connect on the other end it would be good. Others have done it. It is hard to get the rubber nozzle down in there and then when u do it will either shoot oil back into your "blow gun" or all over your engine if you don't have a tight seal.
#29
Join Date: Sep 2014
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There is nothing wrong with the suggestion of the "Cody Test" or conducting it. JT250 offers good advice. However, if your fuel filter is black, then a trip under the VC's is in order. There is no way around it. Then check the torque on each hold down bolt. I any are below 65 in/lbs you should replace that/those one/ones. My personal cut-off is 70 in/lbs at this point because those injectors have been hopping up and down on each compression/ignition stroke. The o-rings are meant to be in a static environment. While you are doing that you may as well replace all of them as mentioned above.
If you pull the injectors, I would go ahead and check the torque on the upper bolt as well. If any are loose, I would seriously consider cleaning the bolts and holes and using some loctite.
Assuming you have to do this, make sure you lube the o-rings and injectors really well before reinstalling them. Then after the initial torque, do a hot torque or else you'll be living in a groundhog day scenario with the injectors.
I don't like the job either.....
If you pull the injectors, I would go ahead and check the torque on the upper bolt as well. If any are loose, I would seriously consider cleaning the bolts and holes and using some loctite.
Assuming you have to do this, make sure you lube the o-rings and injectors really well before reinstalling them. Then after the initial torque, do a hot torque or else you'll be living in a groundhog day scenario with the injectors.
I don't like the job either.....
#30
Here is a link to my Cody test a few years ago. I had several bad external o-rings after a new re-manufactured set of injectors was installed. I too was using oil at an alarming rate 1 gallon every 60-90 minutes of driving time. also had several bad internal o-rings. There were several bad kits with bad quality o-rings delivered at that time, to many injector builders. I just got "lucky" that I was 1 of the customers who got some. The Cody test can be messy, but is very informative. Use the rubber tipped air gun, but ABSOLUTELY make sure that you wrap the tip with a rag once you place it in the hole. Then it won't be bad.