1979 F-150 Flareside - "Punkin"
#1
1979 F-150 Flareside - "Punkin"
Don't want it to sound too much like and AA meeting, but I've found most forum introductions are kind of like them.
Hi my name is Chris and I have a truck problem...
I'm relatively new to the world of old Fords as I have been a Jeep guy for the last 15 or so years.
I recently purchased "Punkin" off of Craigslist.
1979 F-150 Flareside. Originally had a 351, but it has been replaced with a 460 out of a mid 80's E-series. Heddman Hedders into Flowmaster Super-10's (these will be going away on Monday). Superlift suspension lift and brand new 35" MT Baja MTZ's.
Appears to have the original paint as the dash and door jams are all orange.
Couple of projects before I get to do much driving. The rag joint is shot (Jeff's BG has super fast shipping) and that is tomorrows project. PO apparently couldn't get the OEM dipstick around the header, so a bolt has been used as a plug... Battery hold down and hinge pins are also getting replaced. Only other glaring issue is the vent for the gas tank isn't venting, causing a very, very, very slow fill up.
No major rust to speak of. PPO had the cab and bed off, POR-15'ed the frame, and undercoated the body and cab floor. Even the original wood bed floor is in decent shape.
Been lurking on here for a week or so and you guys and gals have been a wealth of information!
Hi my name is Chris and I have a truck problem...
I'm relatively new to the world of old Fords as I have been a Jeep guy for the last 15 or so years.
I recently purchased "Punkin" off of Craigslist.
1979 F-150 Flareside. Originally had a 351, but it has been replaced with a 460 out of a mid 80's E-series. Heddman Hedders into Flowmaster Super-10's (these will be going away on Monday). Superlift suspension lift and brand new 35" MT Baja MTZ's.
Appears to have the original paint as the dash and door jams are all orange.
Couple of projects before I get to do much driving. The rag joint is shot (Jeff's BG has super fast shipping) and that is tomorrows project. PO apparently couldn't get the OEM dipstick around the header, so a bolt has been used as a plug... Battery hold down and hinge pins are also getting replaced. Only other glaring issue is the vent for the gas tank isn't venting, causing a very, very, very slow fill up.
No major rust to speak of. PPO had the cab and bed off, POR-15'ed the frame, and undercoated the body and cab floor. Even the original wood bed floor is in decent shape.
Been lurking on here for a week or so and you guys and gals have been a wealth of information!
#3
Nice rig, X2 on NOT original bed, but looks good anyway. Turn the gas nozzle upside down to help with the slow flow. Ck the fill tube for being flattened between the bed and frame.
79 grill 73-77 bumper, aftermarket mirrors. Do you need and "O" for your hood? I have a spare in the small parts drawer. Rag joint is common cause of steering slop, also ck the trac bar bushings. Did they use a adjustable trac bar or a trac bar drop bracket?
If the rag joint replacement only helps a small bit, it might be time to invest in a Red Head. RedHead Steering Gears | Expert Steering Gear Rebuild & Remanufacture
79 grill 73-77 bumper, aftermarket mirrors. Do you need and "O" for your hood? I have a spare in the small parts drawer. Rag joint is common cause of steering slop, also ck the trac bar bushings. Did they use a adjustable trac bar or a trac bar drop bracket?
If the rag joint replacement only helps a small bit, it might be time to invest in a Red Head. RedHead Steering Gears | Expert Steering Gear Rebuild & Remanufacture
#4
I was going to ask about the mirrors...
The first time I drove it, my first thought was,"these mirrors are about worthless." After poking around on here, I noticed that that style mirror has the bottom of the bracket just above the dent, not below it. Now it makes sense as to why they sucked.
Probably move them up to the proper position and plug or Bondo the holes. There are no other holes and no door sticker. There is a sticker inside the driver's door jamb.
Interesting info on the bed. Tomorrow is the first day I'll have to tear into it. I'll do a bit more sleuthing on the paint.
Side note- Does anyone carry hoop style steps (Carr-Bully style) for these? I've checked everywhere and even emailed Carr. They show availability for a Bronco of the era, but not the F- series. The reply was that "The F150's were different than the Bronco and the full size PU's. It would require cutting into the metal of the truck to make these fit."
The first time I drove it, my first thought was,"these mirrors are about worthless." After poking around on here, I noticed that that style mirror has the bottom of the bracket just above the dent, not below it. Now it makes sense as to why they sucked.
Probably move them up to the proper position and plug or Bondo the holes. There are no other holes and no door sticker. There is a sticker inside the driver's door jamb.
Interesting info on the bed. Tomorrow is the first day I'll have to tear into it. I'll do a bit more sleuthing on the paint.
Side note- Does anyone carry hoop style steps (Carr-Bully style) for these? I've checked everywhere and even emailed Carr. They show availability for a Bronco of the era, but not the F- series. The reply was that "The F150's were different than the Bronco and the full size PU's. It would require cutting into the metal of the truck to make these fit."
#5
Actually those look like a 80's style or aftermarket mirror. Want some correct ones, type 9's are what you are looking for. And yes mounted above the dent. Careful Ebay can have some OEM ones for $$$.
73-79 F-series and 78/79 Bronco for the most part are the same in the front clip, frontal cab and interior as well as the doors. So I would ASSUME that the 78/79 Bronco ones would fit a pick up truck.
Might even get away with a few years newer application working on yours??
73-79 F-series and 78/79 Bronco for the most part are the same in the front clip, frontal cab and interior as well as the doors. So I would ASSUME that the 78/79 Bronco ones would fit a pick up truck.
Might even get away with a few years newer application working on yours??
#6
#7
How in the world do some PO's not blow themselves up in the vehicles they sell us???
Two header bolts in either side. No bolts holding the power steering pump on (no wonder the PS doesn't work). A mess of old wiring. This wonderfulness under the dash:
Rag joint is in. New dipstick is in. Lots of wiring cleaned up.
Headed to Vatozone for pieces/parts.
Two header bolts in either side. No bolts holding the power steering pump on (no wonder the PS doesn't work). A mess of old wiring. This wonderfulness under the dash:
Rag joint is in. New dipstick is in. Lots of wiring cleaned up.
Headed to Vatozone for pieces/parts.
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#9
Don't get me started on previous owners and wiring. In mine po would strip a wire in the middle wrap another one around it then leave it bare! I had to replace my whole harness as one of those shorted and takes the main harness out. 700 dollars and a ton of time later I am running with all new wires. Like the truck good luck with it, great people here who have helped me a ton.
#11
No IMO, they are the last place to get some....but it you want cheap and now go for it. Dennis Carpenter, NPD, BG, Macs, BOTP...see the vendor list above?
http://www.flashbackf100s.com/stock_items
OEM ones on Ebay for $$$ and post a WTB add on here for some maybe not so much $$$. PM sent to you.
Short cut to the actual part #'s and maybe some old locations, and not in stock anymore, but worth a phone call. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10190966
http://www.flashbackf100s.com/stock_items
OEM ones on Ebay for $$$ and post a WTB add on here for some maybe not so much $$$. PM sent to you.
Short cut to the actual part #'s and maybe some old locations, and not in stock anymore, but worth a phone call. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10190966
#12
#13
Been a busy 6 weeks since I last posted on any progress. But I did give a Moose a Muffin...
So one of the first things I did was to schedule her in for exhaust. Headers into Flowmaster 10's (dumping under the cab with nothing beyond the muffler) was no bueno. Shop owner puts it on the lift and says he can give me a estimate, but can't weld due to a fuel leak. I got my first good look underneath and, go figure... Got home and immediately bought about 25 feet of fuel line and got to work.
The long lines have been replaced now, with the short lines to be done when I can get the truck turned around in the garage (backed in now). While working on these, I find that the PO(S) has installed an external fuel pump. I use the term "installed" loosely as it was hanging by the power wires, that the insulation was now pulled away from the actual pump. Ordered a new pump and, in the interim, start working on wiring.
Oh, good lord. I've never seen such a hack job. Wires where the insulation peeled back, another wire attached, and 4 pounds of electrical tape applied. The attached wires were then going to... nothing.
Gave up and ordered an EZ Wiring harness. Back half, dimmer, and steering column are done. Pretty straight forward. However, I'm running onto some questions about the key switch pigtail. I have looked and searched and drove myself insane trying to match the new harness into the old pigtail. Does anyone have a cheat sheet as to the mating?
I've also installed steps, grab handles, new wipers, battery tray, and seat belts.
To do yet is intake and water pump gaskets, washer bottle, radiator and heater hoses, fluid changes and a deep cleaning.
Hope to have it done before the snow stops.
So one of the first things I did was to schedule her in for exhaust. Headers into Flowmaster 10's (dumping under the cab with nothing beyond the muffler) was no bueno. Shop owner puts it on the lift and says he can give me a estimate, but can't weld due to a fuel leak. I got my first good look underneath and, go figure... Got home and immediately bought about 25 feet of fuel line and got to work.
The long lines have been replaced now, with the short lines to be done when I can get the truck turned around in the garage (backed in now). While working on these, I find that the PO(S) has installed an external fuel pump. I use the term "installed" loosely as it was hanging by the power wires, that the insulation was now pulled away from the actual pump. Ordered a new pump and, in the interim, start working on wiring.
Oh, good lord. I've never seen such a hack job. Wires where the insulation peeled back, another wire attached, and 4 pounds of electrical tape applied. The attached wires were then going to... nothing.
Gave up and ordered an EZ Wiring harness. Back half, dimmer, and steering column are done. Pretty straight forward. However, I'm running onto some questions about the key switch pigtail. I have looked and searched and drove myself insane trying to match the new harness into the old pigtail. Does anyone have a cheat sheet as to the mating?
I've also installed steps, grab handles, new wipers, battery tray, and seat belts.
To do yet is intake and water pump gaskets, washer bottle, radiator and heater hoses, fluid changes and a deep cleaning.
Hope to have it done before the snow stops.
#14