DSII timing help needed
#1
DSII timing help needed
I have a 1984 f150 4x4 300 I6 4.9
I have converted to DSII using a distributor from a 1983 f150, a TP40 Napa blue grommet Ignition module and a brand new wiring harness from Painless. I have had the vehicle running since the install of these parts. I even ran it up the road and back to warm it up for timing. Once I got the timing light on it, I noticed that the scribe mark was only showing up if I shined the light at it from under the truck. After rotating the distributor I was able to get the mark to the very far edge of the damper and if I attempted to move the mark to anywhere within the damper marks the truck would die. I thought that it was possible that the rotor was off from top dead center. So I popped out the #1 spark plug, found the compression stroke and waited for top dead center. What I found was that my scribe mark (factory mark) was still under the truck where I found it with the timing light. After readjusting my rotor and distributor to point at the #1 tower I reinstalled the plug wires and gave it a shot. It wouldn't start. I double and then triple checked the same procedure and was never able to get the truck back up and running.
Here is what I know:
1. At top dead center my rotor is facing the #1 tower on the distributor
2. My plug wires are installed as follows 135624
3. I am getting spark
4. I have fuel
5. vacuum advanced is unplugged and capped on the carb
I cant seem to get her back up and running any help would be awesome. Thanks.
I have converted to DSII using a distributor from a 1983 f150, a TP40 Napa blue grommet Ignition module and a brand new wiring harness from Painless. I have had the vehicle running since the install of these parts. I even ran it up the road and back to warm it up for timing. Once I got the timing light on it, I noticed that the scribe mark was only showing up if I shined the light at it from under the truck. After rotating the distributor I was able to get the mark to the very far edge of the damper and if I attempted to move the mark to anywhere within the damper marks the truck would die. I thought that it was possible that the rotor was off from top dead center. So I popped out the #1 spark plug, found the compression stroke and waited for top dead center. What I found was that my scribe mark (factory mark) was still under the truck where I found it with the timing light. After readjusting my rotor and distributor to point at the #1 tower I reinstalled the plug wires and gave it a shot. It wouldn't start. I double and then triple checked the same procedure and was never able to get the truck back up and running.
Here is what I know:
1. At top dead center my rotor is facing the #1 tower on the distributor
2. My plug wires are installed as follows 135624
3. I am getting spark
4. I have fuel
5. vacuum advanced is unplugged and capped on the carb
I cant seem to get her back up and running any help would be awesome. Thanks.
#3
I agree.
The only thing I would add if you are wanting to time to the factory spec, is to make a piston stop so you can accurately find TDC (by bringing the piston up onto the stop from both directions, & marking the midway point on the balancer).
But if you are going to go for extra advance, or recurving the distributor etc, this isn't that important.
The only thing I would add if you are wanting to time to the factory spec, is to make a piston stop so you can accurately find TDC (by bringing the piston up onto the stop from both directions, & marking the midway point on the balancer).
But if you are going to go for extra advance, or recurving the distributor etc, this isn't that important.
#4
Perfect. Started right up. Thanks so much.
What I ended doing was ignoring the scribe on the wheel. I found the compression stroke, got to TDC and marked a line on the wheel at 0 degrees on the damper. Moved the rotor over to the #1 on the distributor and it fired up.
After it warmed up I timed it. It still has a very subtle stutter at idle. Do you think its a carb adjustment from there?
The carb is a brand new single barrel carb. I got it from national carb.
What I ended doing was ignoring the scribe on the wheel. I found the compression stroke, got to TDC and marked a line on the wheel at 0 degrees on the damper. Moved the rotor over to the #1 on the distributor and it fired up.
After it warmed up I timed it. It still has a very subtle stutter at idle. Do you think its a carb adjustment from there?
The carb is a brand new single barrel carb. I got it from national carb.
#7
Great to know. I will head to the parts store immediately and replace it. Any idea what causes something like that? Is just worn and old or is there an underlying problem somewhere else. I guess it makes sense that its out of balance the idle is loping along quite rough. Thanks again for all the help.
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#8
for optimum timng settings..
I would buy a vaccum gauge and set the timing...also adjust your carb for best vacuum...
it's a google'able concept..
upon re-reading.(unless your original post was a typo).I would change your plugs wires to illustrate the correct firing order...153624..it SHOULD run better.
it's a google'able concept..
upon re-reading.(unless your original post was a typo).I would change your plugs wires to illustrate the correct firing order...153624..it SHOULD run better.
#9
Harmonic dampeners, aka balancers, have an outer ring that is bonded to rubber, which is bonded to the inner hub. The rubber gets old and loses its grip on the metal, allowing the outer ring to move with relation to the hub. It is a very common problem with these old vehicles, and if it has slipped it is just a question of when, not if, it comes off.
#10
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