Could use the help of someone with a tape measure and a creeper please.
#1
Could use the help of someone with a tape measure and a creeper please.
Happy holidays everyone. I'm finally getting back at my '65 F250 C.S. Been busy as ever for a half year or so and now have some time to get working on it again.
I have to replace both L & R floor pans as well as the front cab mounts. The problem I have is that mine are rotted out completely as well as the core support and I have no guide to tell me how far off the frame the cab is supposed to sit as the front of it was sitting on the frame. I am looking for some measurements so I can make sure my cab is sitting the correct distance off the frame before I weld in my cab mounts.
1. Distance between frame and cab cross member under the cab that runs right under the front the seat. The square brace that runs across the bottom of the cab.
2. Distance between the frame and cab at the rear mounts. My rear mounting points are solid, but the mounts are flattened out.
I figure if I have these two measurements I can put spacers between the cab and frame and then weld the front mounts in with the rubber mounts installed so that spacing is correct.
Hope this makes sense and I really appreciate anyone who's willing to take these measurements for me. I'd be happy to send a bottle of homemade wine to you for your troubles.
Cheers,
Rikk
I have to replace both L & R floor pans as well as the front cab mounts. The problem I have is that mine are rotted out completely as well as the core support and I have no guide to tell me how far off the frame the cab is supposed to sit as the front of it was sitting on the frame. I am looking for some measurements so I can make sure my cab is sitting the correct distance off the frame before I weld in my cab mounts.
1. Distance between frame and cab cross member under the cab that runs right under the front the seat. The square brace that runs across the bottom of the cab.
2. Distance between the frame and cab at the rear mounts. My rear mounting points are solid, but the mounts are flattened out.
I figure if I have these two measurements I can put spacers between the cab and frame and then weld the front mounts in with the rubber mounts installed so that spacing is correct.
Hope this makes sense and I really appreciate anyone who's willing to take these measurements for me. I'd be happy to send a bottle of homemade wine to you for your troubles.
Cheers,
Rikk
#2
I can't help with what your trying to do. Alternative is, I believe the cab mounts are reproduced today. By removing the spot welds and the old mounts you should be able to set new mounts in place, weld and have you back to square one. When I did my truck many years ago, reproduced mounts were not out there.
#3
I can't help with what your trying to do. Alternative is, I believe the cab mounts are reproduced today. By removing the spot welds and the old mounts you should be able to set new mounts in place, weld and have you back to square one. When I did my truck many years ago, reproduced mounts were not out there.
#4
Thanks for the input, but the old ones are rotted away and the floor pan isn't there either. So I have nothing to establish the height. I have both the mounts and the pans to weld in, but I can't tell exactly the height of the mount in relation to the floor of the cab to get the cab at the right height. The cab isn't level and it's causing issues with my clutch disengagement. I'm pulling out what's left of my hair trying to figure it out.
#5
Rikk, A little different direction, but you might want to consider, ALL floor pans 65-79 are basically the same. Depending on how yours is cut out you might want to look into cutting along the edge side and top and under the seat, then replace the entire pan.
There are differences in the humps but all other same.
John
There are differences in the humps but all other same.
John
#6
The mounts I bought were the one piece style, so I can try and see how they compare height wise to the two piece mounts if I can find the measurements and then use that seam for a guide.
John,
I had considered that, but the pans I bought are trim to fit and have excess sheet metal on all 4 sides, so that kind of screws me there too. THe biggest thing I am worried about is that I can't adjust my clutch because all of the adjustment is taken out of it because the cab has dropped down. I guess I could adjust the clutch to the middle of the adjustment and then lift the front of the cab until I get a happy medium of it looking like it's sitting correctly and the clutch is disengaging. (I've replaced all the bushings in the linkage as well as the clutch and flywheel, so that may work)
Sometimes working on old stuff is worse than new.
John,
I had considered that, but the pans I bought are trim to fit and have excess sheet metal on all 4 sides, so that kind of screws me there too. THe biggest thing I am worried about is that I can't adjust my clutch because all of the adjustment is taken out of it because the cab has dropped down. I guess I could adjust the clutch to the middle of the adjustment and then lift the front of the cab until I get a happy medium of it looking like it's sitting correctly and the clutch is disengaging. (I've replaced all the bushings in the linkage as well as the clutch and flywheel, so that may work)
Sometimes working on old stuff is worse than new.
#7
The mounts I bought were the one piece style, so I can try and see how they compare height wise to the two piece mounts if I can find the measurements and then use that seam for a guide.
John,
I had considered that, but the pans I bought are trim to fit and have excess sheet metal on all 4 sides, so that kind of screws me there too. THe biggest thing I am worried about is that I can't adjust my clutch because all of the adjustment is taken out of it because the cab has dropped down. I guess I could adjust the clutch to the middle of the adjustment and then lift the front of the cab until I get a happy medium of it looking like it's sitting correctly and the clutch is disengaging. (I've replaced all the bushings in the linkage as well as the clutch and flywheel, so that may work)
Sometimes working on old stuff is worse than new.
John,
I had considered that, but the pans I bought are trim to fit and have excess sheet metal on all 4 sides, so that kind of screws me there too. THe biggest thing I am worried about is that I can't adjust my clutch because all of the adjustment is taken out of it because the cab has dropped down. I guess I could adjust the clutch to the middle of the adjustment and then lift the front of the cab until I get a happy medium of it looking like it's sitting correctly and the clutch is disengaging. (I've replaced all the bushings in the linkage as well as the clutch and flywheel, so that may work)
Sometimes working on old stuff is worse than new.
Trending Topics
#8
I'm pretty sure those one piece cab mounts are made to slip over a mount that is just starting to fail and not very usable to replace a mount that has collapsed. I measured an old cab I have and the mounts are 9 inches from the lip on the firewall to the bottom of the mount and about 45 1/2 inches center to center between the mounts. You might want to consider removing the cab and sitting it on it's back to make those repairs. I know that sounds like a lot of work but it will save you a lot of time and burns in the end.
Thanks a million for the measurements, that is going to be a big help, especially with the info about the type of mounts I have.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JOSEPHU
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
3
02-21-2008 09:56 AM
71_4x4_390
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
12
04-11-2004 09:49 AM