Hey guys, looks like I'll be pulling the engine out of my 94 Lightning here this winter. I want to refresh the whole thing and do some upgrades, possibly a roller cam, roller rockers, plenum spacer, ultra thin head gaskets, 70mm TB. Anyways I know you need to be careful with cam selection otherwise the SD system won't like it. I've been reading lots of mixed opinions on it, some say if you stay under 220 duration at .050 and at 114 LSA you don't need to tune, others say you need to tune no matter what. Basically I've decided that if I add a cam I'll have to spend the money for a tuneable system. The question is does anybody on here have experience with FAST Multiport Retrofit EZ-EFI(link below)? Or should I go with a MAF swap? Any other advice you guys have would be greatly appreciated. I need to get this engine freshened up soon, leaks lots of oil, vacuum issues, and just not running as good as it should.
Multiport Retro-Fit EZ-EFI® Kit Fuelairspark.com

Thanks

 

Your truck has an E4OD so splitting up the engine and trans control with two separate systems needlessly complicates things IMO, and I'm pretty sure the Lightning PCMs have been mapped for use with the J3 port tuners like the Moates Quarterhose so if you need tuning that would be the way to go.

 

Yeah, I'm kinda shying away from those due to the fact that I really don't know how to tune for EFI. I can tune a Holley or Edelbrock carbs easy enough, but messing with fuel tables and what not is lost on me. And I don't really know of any reputable tuners in my area, and that seems like an extra expense that I could avoid when I do mods further down the road.

 

The factory ECU will still control the transmission as long as you tap into the 0-5 volt return that goes from the TPS to the FAST ecu.

I don't remember if the EZ EFI will work with the factory TFI, and if it doesn't, you'll be looking at buying a dual sync distributor and ignition box which is an additional 400-500 bucks.

 

Ok, I know I saw a write up a while ago on how to keep the trans controlled by the ECU, but I haven't been able to find it recently.
As far as spark goes the EZ EFI won't control it. I'm probably gonna try to rob a Duraspark II dizzy and harness from a junk yard. I already have a MSD 6A box laying around. I've heard setting it up is a easy task, only time will tell lol

 

If you don't use a dual sync distributor, then it's likely that you'll have to buy the crank trigger assembly for the fast ecu to use to fire the injectors.

 

Ok. I had kinda been wondering about that. I was planning to call FAST soon to verify what adapters and additional sensors/hardware I'll need to run it.
Also, do you happen to know how much valve lift is safe to run with stock heads and bottom end? I haven't been able to find any consistent answers. I just don't want to have to order a cam just to check clearance and find out I'll be bending valves

 

I personally wouldn't shove the biggest cam in that the stock heads will allow because the heads will be the bottleneck at that point.

 

yeah, im not going crazy with it. I'm gonna go with a Lunati Voodoo series cam. I love the way they sound, just enough lope to sound mean. Also Ive heard they have a nice wide powerband. This is the one I may go with. Is this too much lift? I'll probably end up calling Lunati's tech line tomorrow to get input there too. Trying to do my homework and cover all my bases so I don't dick it up
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam - Ford 351W & 302 H.O. 268/276 - Lunati Power

 

Also looking at all the wiring and BS I'd have to deal with running aftermarket EFI,(and the ugly price of everything) I'm considering just saying screw it, carb time. Until I can save up and do the EFI system right. I'm on a little bit of a limited budget(FedEx drivers don't get rich) cuz I just bought a house last summer....And the fiance is pushing me to actually get married this year.... But now that I have a garage I really wanna fix the issues and get more ponies. I only took it to the strip once and was severely dissapointed with a 15.8 and 2 16.0 runs. That needs to change lol

 

Most of the RPM recommendations on 302/351 cams have been related to a car...like a Mustang. In a truck, it will act differently because it's heavier.
I've noticed that for these trucks, the most cost effective non bolt-on/non-power adder upgrade is a Mustang 5.0 roller cam upgrade, advanced 2 degrees (with roller rockers), and a 2400 stall converter. With those upgrades alone, you wont need aftermarket EFI, or mass air.

 

I remember something told to me in my past, but I may be wrong. Doesn't the 302HO have a different firing order than the rest of the umpteen billion 302s Ford sold?

 

The 302HO from the mustangs does have a different firing order than regular 302s, it shares the firing order with the 351w. And I have heard that the 302HO roller works without tuning, but I've also heard that it doesn't. Some of what I've heard is that it may run and provide more power than the stock cam, but it won't run as good as it should. But then again that's just what I've heard. All the research I've done on it seems its about 50/50 if it will work right or not...

 

The Mustang 5.0 roller cam swap seems to work best with 1.7 ratio roller rockers and a 2 degree cam advance, in these heavier trucks. It's likely you wont need any tuning with Mustang roller cam swap alone, but it is important for you to invest in a fuel pressure gauge and a wideband O2 so you can monitor the fueling. With that cam swap, and other bolt-ons, you may need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator if the fuel pressure falls off and A/F ratios get too lean.

 

Ok, gotcha. Where should I look for the cam? I haven't seen any OEM replacements on any of the sites I've looked at so far. At this point too I'm still kinda considering a carb swap. I already have flat tappet lifters, so depending on how much the roller cam and lifters and wideband cost I may go that route. I'm not gonna make any final decisions until I see how my tax refund looks though.