No he did a full disassemble and cleaned them....they are all fresh and ready to go back in.

 

Oh, so you're asking about getting what's left in the engine out, yes? About the best you can probably do is drain the pan, HPO reservoir and possibly remove and drain the oil cooler. After it's been started, do another oil change. You'll need to watch the oil for signs of milkiness and change it again if needed.

 

Yes I was suggested after i suck and drain everything to pour marvels mystery oil in there and force air into the head rail ports to push it thru......should i do that?

 

If I was going to try that, I would just use the same type of motor oil I'd run in the engine. Whether to try to blow anything out or not, I'm not so sure I'd bother. I suspect it's just going to create a huge mess with little actual benefit.

 

So all I had time to do today was pressurize the coolant tank to 15psi and it leaked down pretty quick imo. Roughly within 30min pressure leaked out. So i plan to research this more, clean the cups and try it again and inspect each cup as the pressure is leaking down to see if I can see anything. And keep my fingers crossed I just need to replace the remaining 7 cups and be ok. Worst case scenario is a head gasket or cracked head......if the latter I need to decide to sell as is for a major loss or fix it. Not looking forward to the possibility of pulling the heads.......

 

update.....found 3 more cups leaking so I have pulled them all and cleaned all of the bores. I couldn't get new cups until today so hopefully this evening I can get them in. But while I was cleaning everything I decided to put shop air to the glow plug hole and blew a lot of milky oil/water out of the 3 suspect cylinders the rest of them were pretty dry. I couldn't get all of the water out but hopefully that was my problem. Keeping fingers crossed.........

 

You can't overestimate how clean those cup bores need to be. The factory installed them in a brand new motor with zero debris in there, so it behooves us to do likewise.








Cup Prep Brush

 

Thanks Tugly.....I have cleaned w/ a dremel wire wheel and brake clean, but I just could not get down to the very bottom. I used a screw driver and a rag after brake clean to get the old glue off but that brush you show there looks exactly what I need. I wonder if my local Ace Hardware would have something like that. Anyways.....I will look. I'm assuming I should not install these in cold temps sub 60degrees so looks like I'm going to wait another day or so to install them. LOL we got a cold front down here in FL and its freezing....its been in the low 60's all day.....lol But anyways I would think warmer weather would be smarter....its been down this long what's a few more days.

 

Yea good call mine did the same afte sitting with injectors out for awhile ended up bleeding air out by pulling hoop reservoir plug and then rear oil rail plugs in heads took many times before I figured that out

 

Before reading I didn't know the injector cup came in contact with the water jacket does anyone know if leaking cups could be the cause of losing All of your coolant into the oil all at once and shutting the truck down