ok....since my ipr % isn't going over 65 and my icp isn't going over 95....and my newly rebuilt injectors are the common denominator in what has changed. I'm thinking they are the reason why my pressure will not build. The poppet valves......thoughts?

 

It's still not going higher than 70 or so psi? That's probably base engine lube oil pressure. I'm starting to think you may have a failed HPOP on your hands. Typically if an IPR fails, it will still allow pressure to build to the mid-200s or so.

 

I realise that but its a T500 that was intalled less than a year ago. Which leads me back to the poppet valves in the injectors. The injectors are the only that has changed.......Im taking them to the rebuilder tomorrow afternoon so hopefully i will know then.

 

Search: Cody test. That oil pressure is going somewhere, and the Cody test might point it out.

I crank no more than ten seconds at a time - to preserve the starter.

Is the tin nut still on the IPR?

Did you flush all white oil out of the system? You really need coolant-free oil, so it may take an oil flush to get it all out of there.

 

Thanks for the reply.....I will search for the Cody test

Actually the tin nut fell off around the time I installed the rebuilt T500. that was back in September/October of last year and has been off all this time.

I didn't actually "flush" but I let it drain overnight and I sucked out the hpop tank and refilled with fresh oil. the dipstick is still reading clean oil, no evidence of any milky oil left. now when I check the icp and the plug on the opposite head still had some dark oil, but it didn't appear to be milky.

 

OK.....so I read the test and I understand it. But now I'm questioning and I thought I asked this earlier.....when you are cranking are you supposed to see oil passing thru the injector spouts? Because I'm not seeing any oil movement in the heads and I'm not loosing any oil. And yes when I removed the icp and the other plug and cranked the motor oil "glugged" out not at a high rate.
I don't suspect my orings are bad since they are brand new, but I am questioning the "poppet valves" of my rebuilt injectors because of the fact that I am not building more than 95psi so yes as you said the pressure/oil has to be going somewhere. The valve covers are still off by the way.....

The test (which needs to be renamed by the way) is used to determine and help narrow down the source of a high pressure oil leak.

By removing one or both of the high pressure oil lines from the head (or the pump if one was so inclined), a person effectively isolates the oil rails from the rest of the high pressure system. By using compressed ("shop") air and a blow gun (preferably one with a rubber tip to minimize leakage), it's possible to hear a high pressure oil leak to diagnose injector or injector o-ring problems without first removing the valve covers. By doing this, the high pressure oil pump and injection pressure regulator are isolated and NOT tested (or botching the test). Besides, it's impossible to hear a leak with the engine cranking since there's a lot of noise present. Sure, a person experiencing low injection pressure (too low to allow a start condition) could remove the valve covers and watch for oil leaks....but that involves actually removing the valve covers and cranking the engine and watching for oil at the same time.

If there happens to be a high pressure oil leak on or near the injectors large enough to cause a no-start condition, using pressurized air is a quick and easy way to find out which side AND which hole is the culprit. Just be sure to cover the tip of the air gun with a rag just in case you don't find a leaking injector/o-ring....you'll be wearing 120-ish PSI of oil spray otherwise when you remove the blow gun nozzle from the oil line fitting.

 

After reading it again....I guess if I did this test and I don't hear any leakage then it's my hpop. and if its my hpop then it just coinsidently died at the same time my injectors died....ugh

 

No, no oil will exhaust from the deflector spouts until either ICP reaches 500 psi, or you've continuously cranked long enough for the PCM to assume a biased icp sensor reading, disregard the reading and send a fuel delivery command signal anyhow. That is somewhere around 15-20 seconds, and should set a DTC, P1209 I believe it is.

 

Or, could it have been the HPOP dying a slow death all along.

T500's are not prone to failure but when one does, Joey is top notch at fixing the problem.

It might be very helpful to fix the tin nut before diagnosing it as a T500 failure.

Also, check the torque on the shaft that the HPOP gear rides on. It is a friction only connection so if the bolt is loose then there will be minimal pressure.

 

OK...Thanks Pikachu....that is kinda what I thought. I'm not getting anything out of the injectors oil or fuel. My plan is still to take them back to the rebuilder and have a look.

Yes Joey is great, he actually rebuilt it in September of last year because I apparently broke a couple of springs and it was just outside of my warranty period. So I'm sure if it has failed again this quickly I will be sol. If the injectors check out good this afternoon then I'm going to pull the hpop and my buddy has a known good one and I will install his to rule it out.

I just want the damn thing to run again.........

 

So the saga continues.......pulled the injectors apart and they were full of water, very little oil. This makes no sense as I drained the oil and the hpop reservoir and refilled w/ fresh oil. So I'm going to drain it again....this time I'm going to suck out the head rails also. And stuff a small tube past the injector cup to suck out anything left in the cylinders...... Anything else you guys can suggest to make sure I completely drain as much old oil and water out of the system as possible? My injector guy suggested running some mineral spirits into the head rails and then adding air to force it thru back into the oil pan? Is this really a good idea?

Since the injectors are out, I'm also going to pressurize the coolant system just to make sure I do not have anymore leaking cups. I just rented a pressure tester from Autozone.

 

Hold on. Which part of the injectors was full of water, the oil side, or the fuel side?

 

crap....I don't know. When he pulled the poppet valve, the spring inside was full of milky water so I'm assuming oil side. He didn't say anything about the fuel side

 

Ok....I talked to him and he said the fuel side was clean. Oil side was mostly/all water. Any suggestions on getting any /all water out?

 

The guy opened up the injectors and didn't at least clean that mess out?