My truck is getting to the age in months (a May 2010 Job 1 build) rather then miles (~83K) that a coolant change is in order. I did buy the truck used and the OASIS really doesn't tell me much other then the CAC was replaced and new coolant installed under warranty at about 23K miles. That's the secondary system so don't know if the primary was changed as well.

Looking around the internet plus here, really couldn't find much in the way of a well written procedure. Lots on the 7.3/6.0/6.4 but the 6.7 seems o be 'forgotten'. Yeah, I could take it to the dealer - but the chances are that he would open a couple radiator pet***** as well as I can, then refill, leaving a bunch of old stuff in the rest of the system then charge me $2-300 or more for that 'service'. I know that there are block drains, but where. I know that I can flush with distilled water but also know that that will leave the same amount of fluid as coolant in the system and then without any decent freeze protection. I know that a vacuum coolant 'inductor' is desirable and will end up with someones low buck version. The coolant I will be using will be the orange Prestone Dex Cool to the Ford spec WSS-M97B44-D plus distilled water as they are available anywhere on a Sunday afternoon if needed

Sooooo with all that said, is there a procedure anywhere that I missed?

 

I don't think there is anything really out there. Did you check youtube?


I think if it were me, I would drain as much as you can. Fill with distilled.


run it till hot, drain it again and then refill. Test for temps and call it a day.


To get to the block plugs, I think one is where you would have to take the starter out?

 

Oh yeah, Scott - You Tube - 6.0 and 6.4 trucks.

Even if I can get one block plug out, that will be a big plus. I was amazed as to how much coolant and crud came out of the low miles 5.0 in my street rod with the way set back engine when I pulled the block plugs

 

If you drain and replace the coolant it would be the perfect time to add a block heater element. That is if you don't already have one and live in a place where you need one.

 

It has a block heater tho seldom used as the truck is garaged.

A note - according to what I've read several places on the 'net, they all come with a heater element. All you have to do is add the cord.

 

I think they stopped adding them at some point. I've searched mine a few times and all I've found is a slug in the block where the element goes. After researching a bit I found that they only add it as an option or standard as the region of sale dictates.

Just guessing, but I remember it being 2012/13 when they stopped adding them as standard equipment.

 

1. Drain both coolant systems and refill with distilled water. Drive truck with heater on until coolant gets hot and drain. Repeat these steps until the fluid that drains out is completely clear.
2. After your final drain add 15 quarts of Ford Red coolant (total capacity 29.4 quarts) and top of with distilled to bring your primary cooling system to a 50/50 mix. On the secondary system add 6 quarts of coolant (117.7 quarts)and top off with distilled water to bring it to a 50/50 mix.

 

I am going to add to what Troy said. My dealer did a flush on my 2011. They used a chemical flush (VC-1) as they put 6.4 additive in by mistake. If you wanted a really really good flush I would add that step. And you get to add it and distilled water, run it up to temp, dump it, and then you do the refill with distilled, bring it up to temp, dump it, then add coolant and top off as Troy says...

I really don't know how necessary this step is, but that is what they did.... And because they messed up the first time, they did coolant tests often and for free. It always tested out fine. (and I watched because if it was borderline then I was entitled to them doing another flush and fill)

 

I was hoping that there would be a well thought out method to do coolant change beyond the drain the radiators, run lots of water through it then add new orange coolant,(not red) to Ford spec, WSS-M97B44-D. Based on a lot of other vehicles and doing it as a (minor) part of my living years back, you just can't get enough gallons of antifreeze back in the partially flushed system to meet the needed 50-50 ratio for my corner of the world.

Sounds like I need to continue my search while waiting for spring and warmer breezes and build up my stash of $$$ coolant and distilled water.

Thanks for your suggestions though

 

It is what it is... When I change mine in AK, I won't be doing 50-50... closer to 70% coolant to water. Which is what you are supposed to run in arctic conditions. Just like I want to go to a 0W-40 oil as there is the possibility I might see -40F or lower temps.

 

Wow that's cold...


BTW... I looked at the jug of Ford Motorcraft orange coolant and it says a 50% concentration protects to -34F and also says not to exceed 60% concentration.


But yes there's not many options when changing the coolant except for the addition removing the engine block drains which I don't think the 6.7 has, but creates a bigger mess and is more work IMO. The last time I did the above procedure on my 6.0PSD I want to say it took 3 flushes with distilled water and the third drain was clear.

 

Things are different in the Arctic/sub-arctic for sure...

Here is a temp at the local Fred Meyer in Fairbanks... The thermometer was working too. Not windchill, actual air temp.

 

Is that -62 C?


That almost hurts to see temps that low and takes your coolant quality to a whole different level. Wow....

 

First off you shouldn't be changing your coolant without a coolant vacuum pump. It's not possible to get out all of the air of the coolant system without one. Those days of simply draining and refilling are gone.

If you have a decent air compressor you can do it your self. Simply search any auto site for coolant vacuum pump.


Secondly use any coolant that meets the ford spec. You don't have to use ford motor craft. Prestone dexcool can be had very reasonably.

 

Go back and reread my OP as well as, I believe, the 9th - I'll be using Ford spec orange antifreeze (Prestone) plus someones vacuum gadget to evacuate the air.