A normal DRW type Budd, generally 20" x 5" or 6", will have 4.75" to 5.00" positive offset for DRW spacing. If the plan is to have the truck be SRW it won't matter, except that the combat wheels will move front and rear track that much outward on each side. On a 2wd truck that might create fender rubbing, but not so likely on a M-H given taller stance. There will I suspect be differences experienced in steering geometry. Stu

 

I ended up having to run the adapter plate on the inside of the wheel. With it mounted on the outside, the bolts/nuts that hold it in place would contact the brake drum and cause mounting interference. With the plate mounted inside the wheel how it is, the inboard side of the wheel lip (the outer edge) is exactly the same distance from the frame as the stock wheel was. So frame to wheel clearance hasn't changed any. Also, the wheels do not stick out past the body. They are almost even with the fender now.

 

Let's get the rubber on the road and
then see for sure what you got.

 

The elimination of the DRW offset has been made up for by the added width of the 10" rim. Which is why the rim to inner frame clearance remains near stock. The wheel and tire thus sits that approx 5.00" further outboard. Looks like it works. Stu

 

Patience my friend..... patience. Currently lots of irons in the fire. The F6 is just a small side project when I have a couple free minutes here and there.

 

Looking good!


Thanks for the updates
Bobby

 

The lower valence was cut/notched and then they welded 3/8" round stock to the now cut edge, giving it strength and it added a nice (hand/wire) friendly round soft edge. I think they did a pretty clean job with the modification. For the grill they clearance cut the center (globe??) and welded a flat plate to cap the open bottom off.

 

My 51 F5 MH has the same mod (3/8" rod formed inside of all outside edges, including fenders) and they cut the center tooth too, but didn't weld a cap in place.
whats the make and model of the winch? love the look of it up front, but thinking i'm going with a newer hydraulic one as my tranny PTO will most likely drive a pump with a remote reservoir in the cab. Any pics of your PTO setup? trying to figure out linkage for when I get my spacer back from the shop.

 

That's a very clean installation, almost too clean for M-H. In other examples we've seen M-H wasn't so concerned about cosmetics. Wonder if the winch was actually installed by a second aftermarket installer prior to the truck's delivery to the original buyer. Stu

Edit - well maybe not if CaptPayne's is so similar. Stu

 

Stu, any idea how many F6's were converted to fourwheel drive by Marmon-Harrington?

 

Somewhere I have an email, probably lost on a phone or laptop now gone, an email from Chuck about build numbers. In a nutshell, he says there were very few small half tons and then more as the models got bigger. He says about 200 half tons a year. My axle number archive says 300-400 a year of F-2/F-3s. The F-4 was an in between size and seems to have been rare, I've seen pictures only of two. The F-5s/6s/7s/8s were done in much bigger numbers given the variety of heavy commercial needs they met. Chuck had no idea of how many were done, and all factory records were trashed. Stu

 

Here's a pic of my lower front valence. Was cut back so far they held the two halves together with a piece of angle iron.



Looking at the drivers side (passengers is getting a patch, and the link they added isn't helping things.





Detail showing the edge of the sheet metal rolled around the rod and then welde in spots.

And also the friend era are done this way too. Makes them a lot stiffer I find.

 

While I have the grill out, I decided to fix a couple things on it. There was a couple small dents to smooth out. And there was two pop-rivets by the headlight bezel holding absolutely nothing. So I wanted to pull the rivets and weld the 1/8" holes shut.

The center tooth that was modified always kind of bugged me. When they cut and welded on it, it didn't follow the round contour of the winch drum, or the contour of the horizontal bar in the grill. The cap plate was just kind placed on to the modified tooth and stuck out some in the top front and on both sides. The welds weren't that great looking either. So I cut off the plate, and made a new one with the same contour to match the center grill bar and had it follow it evenly at 2" out. Yeah, I know it was unnecessary......sometimes its the little things.

 

It says Braden Winch Co. Tulsa Oklahoma.

The only numbers I could find on it are " MU5-12F-R " which was stamped in the main housing.

 

Your picture of the welded patch fits what I said above of M-H's "quick and dirty" fixes for modifications. Here's their fix for the splash pan that hits the front diff. Stu