Frame has a fresh coat of semi-gloss black. Now I can re-install the new driveshaft, make up some new rear brake lines, and finish the Mustang tank install, plus more.......
That is NOT overspray on the back of the cab!!! That is an incomplete paint job from 1999!

 

I need to order some parts to move this project along, but with the US$ doing so well, I now pay an extra $0.40 per dollar for any parts from the US. It hurts!!!

 

Well, maybe I can help with that indirectly. How would you like to take an 8 hour cruise? I still have some friends in my home town of Toledo Ohio. One of which is the kid who grew up next door. I'm 58 now and he's 49. I still talk to him every Wednesday night. He is a gearhead also. I can ask him tomorrow but I'M Sure he wouldn't mind accepting your parts shipments and having you stop by to pick the stuff up. Let me know Murc.




.


Distance to Toledo, OH

bing.com/maps


A
Greater Sudbury, Ontario, Canada

B
Toledo, OH


505.9 mi

8 hrs 31 mins

See turn by turn directions

 

That is mighty generous of you!
I already use an American shipping address in Sault, Michigan. It's about a 5-6 hour round trip drive. It costs me $50-60 if I take my wife's CRV. It does save me some money for shipping fer sure! It's just the Canadian$ vs USA$ exchange rate right now, that is killing me! I've thought about postponing my "projects" in the hopes that our $ would make a comeback and be closer to your $. But then I think, what if it gets worse?!

 

From what I hear, that's common thievery 'round these parts


I just stumbled on this thread. I've been off the grid for a while. Looks great, nice work!
Don't forget to get some 3/8" hard line for the fuel line. I used a 100 micron Aeromotive fuel filter coming out of the tank and a 40 micron filter up near the carburetor.

One thing you are going to notice the most about that shorter wheelbase is that truck will not try to go straight once the rubber gets smoking.

 

Ha, I'm copying your idea! Will a soft line suck itself closed? I hadn't thought of putting a filter between the tank and pump, is the filter between the pump and carb not good enough?

 

Probably, but two fuel filters makes my OCD feel better

 

It looks like your truck was lowered using DJM shackles. Don't you have to swap out your longbed springs for shortbed springs?

 

You edited your post. Were you planning to run rubber hose up to the in-cab tank line? I wouldn't recommend that. Too much to go wrong when a fuel leak occurs.

 

Nice job, keep up the great work.


As for our "Canadian Tire Dollar" count on it sucking for a long time now...it was 1973 the last time our buck was equal or more than the U.S. then again in 2010 onward, so that's 37 years of our being less than the U.S. so the way I see it could be another 30+ years again.

 

I did lower my truck with a DJM lowering kit, and the kit fit my original longbed springs fine. I have a thread on here about the swap.

 

I wasn't going to run regular 3/8" gas hose, but I was thinking of using a braided steel line with AN fittings. Or a hard line like you suggested.

 

Yeah, I figured as much, so I went ahead and ordered my parts from Dennis Carpenter and LMC today. $700.00 US costs $1000.00 Canadian......ask me how I know.......

My oldest son is 12, so won't be going to college for another 6 years anyway. Lots of time to put that money back in his college fund!

 

The rear crossmember on a short box is slightly ahead (forward) compared to the same crossmember on the long box. It will likely interfere with the top of the rear shackle. That's why swb trucks have a shorter spring. One option is to cut and notch the crossmember.

 

I always believed that longbeds and shortbeds used the same springs?

When I put the DJM shackles on my long bed, I had to cut one of the bed crossmembers to clear the shackles. When I set the new shortbed on the same frame, the shackles clear everything fine.