Alright gents.

Diagnosis: No WTS light. Tach not moving. OD light is on with KOEO. Cranks but no start. Batteries in good condition.

I disconnected the fuel bowl heater and replaced the blown #22 fuse. I also replaced the PCM power fuse, PCM relay, and disconnected my chip.
I replaced the CPS with a Ford CPS.

Once I knew all of those electrical components were new and good I put the key to the on position. I briefly get a WTS light but it goes out almost instantly. When I checked the fuse box fuse #22 was blown again.

I think that is all of the background. All of the fuses under the hood and in the cab of the truck are good and not blown. I checked with a continuity thing on my multimeter.

What do you think could cause the OD light to stay on? The check engine light doesn't stay on which someone told me was a sign of a bad PCM.

Do you think it could still be a bad PCM?

I hate electrical and need all the electrical gurus help.

 

Check your fuel bowl heater, they are notorious for blowing fuse #22

 

Alex for fuse 22 I think the wire going under the bowl might be bad and grounding out. I'd cut the wire st the plug on the pass side of the bowl and try again.

For the OD light you could have a bad wire in the lever

 

Try unplugging the transmission harness on the driver side inner fender. Turn the key to the run position, but don't try to start the truck. See if the OD light is off and the WTS light comes on like it should.

 

Wow, sounds like experience talking! LOL I am filing this one away. I hope you get it Alex!

 

Thanks guys. Hmm do I try the transmission harness first and risk blowing another fuse or cut the fuel bowl wires... Lol
Hate putting 3 bucks in it to turn the key and it blows.
I'll try tom after work.

 

Try them one at a time Alex. Don't cut all the fuel bowl wires. Just the green with red stripe over at the engine harness plug. Or, if you don't wannacut wires, just try unplugging the engine harness plug and turn the key on to see what it does.

 

I will disconnect the trans harness and try that first. Then I will move onto other things.

Which plug is the trans harness connector? I saw a grey one and a black one down there but they look like the ones at the rear of the truck for the engine brake too.

Got a pic?

 

3 bucks a piece on those fuses? You need to do what I did and go to harbor freight and get a assortment of those max fuses. Don't quote me but it couldn't have been more than a few dollars for the whole assortment. I bought a pack of the regular ones too. Has come in handy several times.

Sounds like these guys have you all on the right track though!

 

Don't like spending money when it isn't necessary, though in my opinion, fuses aren't the place to cheap out. I just simply wouldn't trust those to blow at the correct rating or time frame. Maybe they are OK, but that's not the way to bet.

 

Use your DVOM on the Ohm setting. Put one leg on the "out" side of the #22 fuse slot and the other on the engine block or battery ground or anything that is "ground", if you get a really low reading or a zero then you have short somewhere. No need to waste money on fuses before you do the free testing. I'll be free tonight so call me if you need help figuring this post out, lol.


EDIT: Not sure what Bill is after, but I'd like to know...

 

Better to have some fuses and make it home, than not have any and not. And then have to go through the whole rigamaroo to get some and get it fixed. They work just fine for my purposes, and seem to be of equal quality to the "name brand" ones.


For his purpose, he is testing, would you like to spend 3 bucks a pop until you figured out the solution? Not trying to be a jerk, just saying. Every car should have a fuse assortment on hand IMHO.


Ultimatly, I guess to each his own.

 

I'll have to try that. I understand your description. I think I haven't fully figured out my new multimeter someone gave me. Too fancy. lol

I may call though.

 

I'll go with that, good to have on hand for sure!

They "seem" to work OK though? The whole point is, you won't know they are junk until there's a fire or something expensive gets roasted. I got turned on to the el-cheapo fuse thing from an electrician buddy, who discovered their ratings were way off compared to good ole BUSS and Littlefuse. Like everything else these days, some of the brands aren't worth squat depending on who made them. To each his own, agreed. Jus' Sayin'.

 

Junk yards have lots of them