Did some work on my truck today, friday was my birthday so I go to play with my truck while on shift at the fire dept.







These are the after pictures...

 

I was just shown how recently. I'll see how the cover on the servo pops off next trip out to the shop. tonight/tomorrow.

As far as timing goes, yeah, read the plugs make sure they weren't run too lean. Personally, I'd never go above 12* running premium gas.

 

I havent been able to pull the plugs yet especially with the holidays but I work at the fire dept this sunday and plan on doing that along with changing out the door and rear speakers (christmas present). I have come across a noticable "miss" at low speeds with little acceleration. Its very hesitant when driving from 25 to 35 mph and barely touching the gas. Its not a torque convertor issue that I can tell. It idles fine and runs smooth under normal accelaration but if going through a school zone or just normal traffic it runs rough. Any advice where I should try first? I plan on replacing the fuel filter because I ran my front tank almost completely out of fuel just so I know about how many miles I can get out of it for reference and can just imagine I may have picked up some trash out of the tank but any other ideas may be helpful.

 

Yeah, don't run these things low. It stresses the pumps besides the trash issue. Change out fuel filter & have a look at the engine on a damp night in the dark to see if there is any crossfire. If the wires are original, probably time for new ones.


Have you learned to run codes?

I looked at my box'o parts & the cable is not on the servo, don't know why I thought I had one. Sorry.

However the cable come free easily enough, unsnap the cable at the TB & on the case of the servo (over on fender) there is a black lock tab that you depress & turn. The inner cable is just wrapped around the servo motor stub shaft & held in place under tension with a lead slug crimped onto the cable end like a bicycle brake or shifter cable. Unwrap & go.

 

[QUOTE=Scndsin;15902060]Yeah, don't run these things low. It stresses the pumps besides the trash issue. Change out fuel filter & have a look at the engine on a damp night in the dark to see if there is any crossfire. If the wires are original, probably time for new ones.


Have you learned to run codes?

I have done some reading on here how to do it but have not attempted it yet. My CEL does not come on but I guess that does not mean anything. It does come on before cranking the truck so the bulb isnt burnt out but I am guessing there could be stored codes in there. The wires have been changed by the PO to MSD wires but will check tonight to see if there is a light show. As I said it runs smooth at idle and during normal acceleration, its just at low speeds and light acceleration that it is giving me a problem.

 

I just noticed you should have a OBDII, mass-air truck which is a plus in that your diagnostics are better, but you'll need to step up to a quality reader if you're going to keep the truck.

And yeah, codes mostly likely are stored even if there is no light. It never hurts to know what's going on in your trucks ECU. If its stumbling, there's probably something recorded.

 

I appreciate the info, I think I found the OBDII connection towards the pass side on the truck under the dash closer to the midline of the truck. I will have to look in to the pricing of the reader, until then I have a friend that is a mechanic and will ask him to read it for me to see what is there. Oh and I did read your message about how the CC cable comes off, I appreciate the info. Still no luck in getting one but that is because I haven't been out to a yard yet.

 

New question for my new idea....
I have been searching the forum for installation of aftermarket gauges but I am wanting to install them in the stock cluster. I would imagine they still make aftermarket gauges 2" or maybe smaller. I had a 76 Mustang II that I had installed gauges in, took the cluster out and made holes to mount the gauges in to fit in to the cluster. They worked really well but this vehicle is a different beast all together. I finally have plans to go to the pick and pull sat and have a list of things top look for and now I am adding another cluster to work on. My question is can I install mechanical gauges in to my engine although from what I have read these vehicles have sensors and so forth? And if I can will this cause my CEL to come on?

 

You know...most of the time I'm pretty happy to live in Canada...until you guys find gems like this, in such awesome condition for so cheap. That little truck is a beauty. Any hopes of finding something like that north of the border wouldn't sell for a dime less than $7000, which would be close to $10g USD nowadays.

 

I don't recommend hacking on the stock cluster since part of the charging system is keyed off it as well as a lot of your diagnostic & warning lights (Brake, ABS, airbag, etc.). Since it is a OBDII there are bluetooth devices as well as direct wire display stuff that can tell you more than just regular analog gauge stuff.

As far as check engine light goes, pretty much the only one is the ECT engine coolant sensor & not the sender for the temp gauge. (two different things). Unplug the ECT & you will get a light & code.

 

Thanks, i am really happy with her so far. Just trying to learn about her.

 

I want to try and find one tomorrow at the junkyard just to see if it is even possible along with keeping the wiring intact, well the overlay stuff on the back of the cluster. I would never just tear in to mind blindly. Would a Haynes or Chiltons have any of this information about the charging system as you stated or does that just come with knowledge of the truck. I would like to get some schematics of the trucks as well so as time goes on i can try and trace them down.

 

Best thing is a year specific ford manual on disc from ebay. You can sometimes get good used paper ford manuals/documentation. They are pretty reasonable. You can get some specific wiring diagrams from a hanes/chilton, but as one individual says "they're good for starting a fire with."

One of the biggest things about the cluster is a item called a PSOM. It drives the speedometer & has a lot to do with shifting in your trans. It doesn't hurt to grab any out of a late 93 & up trucks just to have as spares or trade goods.

 

Went to 2 different yards today. Barrys in Long Beach and another in Bay St Louis and to say that parts are scare is an understatement. Everything I was looking for everyone else had gotten BUT I did luck out and found an Eddie Bauer edition that has the Cruise still in it. $16.00 and I have cruise control on my truck now. Next weekend maybe I will go to Theodore, Al and Mobile and go to a couple yards over there. Pretty stoked that I have cruise now, I want to take a road trip

 

Well since I am on shift at the fire dept I figured I would do some work on the truck. My fiance bought me new speakers for the doors and rear so I replaced them today. Its funny to see how some others peoples handy work just isnt the same as others. The drivers side door speaker wires were being hit by the window regulator. I had noticed that sometimes when I rolled the window down the stereo would cut off and assumed this was the problem but wasnt sure.....Re routed the wires and fixed the spot. Also noticed that the tops of the door panels that the window seal attaches to was broken. After reinstalling the door panels I can see why. Is it possible to remove the door handle before removing the door panels???
I also replaced the fuel filter.....that was a huge pain in the ***. I had to use a pry bar to get the tool deep enough inside the fitting in order to release the clips. My truck has 322k miles on it and judging by the funk that came out of the filter and the look of the filter, one might wonder if it had ever been changed. With that many miles I sure hope it had.
Also messed with the timing a little more. I pulled #1 plug (which looked good) and brought it up to TDC. I wanted to check and see how accurate the harmonic balancer was since at 11-12 degrees it pings under a hard acceleration. I put a screwdriver in the cylinder and let the guy I am working with tell me when it would stop moving while I turned the crank back and forth. Noticed that the rotor is not pointing to #1 designated on the cap which tells me they someone did not stab the distributor correctly. I did not fix that today but will very soon. Balancer seems to be accurate since it was very close to 0 and I was not the one holding the screwdriver. Set the timing to 10 degrees and took it for a spin. 0-60 there was no pinging under hard acceleration so I an happy. Only thing I have noticed is that when my timing was at 15-16 degrees and pinging my mpg was around 14-15 around town. Since I lowered it last time it has dropped to 11mpg. I will go through both tanks of fuel and recalculate and go from there.