Does anyone know if a bronco courtesy lamp will work in an f150? I like the bronco one more than the f150 one. It's got the two spot lights on it with the dome light.

 

I am pretty sure that a 78/79 bronco dome light (front and rear) was just like a 73-79 truck. One piece cover that gets brittle over the years and is easily replaced with a new LED version.

So are you talking about a newer style truck/bronco dome light? That has the 2 fish eye spot lens and the smaller inner dome light and a off and on switch on the housing. Sure it should work, just wire it up.

Normally "courtesy lamps" are what we call the light under the dash.

 

Yes that's exactly the one I mean.

 

The newer one should have a constant hot since it has the switch on it, the old ones that only come on when the doors open or the head light switch is rotated to full left have a switched power source.

Switched being the door plungers and the head light switch rheostat. Should not be to hard to wire it up.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-question.html

 

Not positive on this one (no pun intended), but I think the door switches are on the ground side, and there always is 12+ to the light itself. The map lights have their own switch on the ground side to the mount screws, so I "don't think" you have to even add a wire.

 

The bad thing about this swap is that the 2 map lights pretty much point at the upper windshield (or out the back window) when installed. Depending on how you mount it. The mounting surface is at a different angle in the F series, that throws it off.

 

This is what I got from FMC400 when troubleshooting my dome light issues.


For the domelight wire, hot-at-all-times power comes goes to the headlight switch as a GREEN with YELLOW stripe wire. Domelight power comes back out as a BLACK with BLUE stripe wire. The same color scheme is used at the door jamb switches. BLACK with BLUE stripe runs out to the actual domelight. BLUE with a RED stripe is instrument panel illumination. It comes out of the headlight switch to the fuse box, leaves the fuse box again as the same color and is distributed throughout the dash. There is no ground connection to the domelight switches or the headlight switches. These switches switch power, not ground.

1)Make sure you have 12 volts on both sides of the courtesy lamp fuse.This circuit is hot at all times, so it doesn't make a difference what position the key is in. If you have power on only one side, replace the fuse. If you don't have power on either side, then there is other work to do first.

2)Pull the domelight switches out and remove them. Make sure the terminal for the GREEN with YELLOW stripe wire in the connector has power.

3)Check the domelight switches for continuity. With the plunger all the way out (switch CLOSED), the switch should be shorted. With the plunger pushed all the way in (switch OPEN), the switch should be open. If not, replace theswitch.

4)With power to the switch proven to be good, and the switches proven to be good, the domelight should light up. If the domelight does not lightup, remove the cover and check for power at the domelight (not the side that's permanently grounded to sheetmetal) with the door OPEN. If you have power here, yet the bulb does not light up,replace the bulb.

Thiswill prove out the door-side; if you get to the point that the doorsturn thelightonbut the headlight switch will not, then we can cross that bridge.

 

What 77&79F250 said.

I had to run another wire for hot at all times on my '78 to a Chevy Astro Van Dome light I stuffed in place of the stock domelight. I painted the grey or beige plastic black, but was easy to mount and wire. Now I have a nice map light with switches to light up my dash cos all the expensive LEDs I used are burnt out :I

 

Not wanting to steal the thread but are there any more options for replacement dome lights?