1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Is my truck worth fixing?

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  #16  
Old 12-12-2015, 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BogginDave
Thanks! Yea I know it's very steep. I'm going to negotiate with him, or I'll move on to another mechanic plain and simple. I plan on keeping my truck until it blows up. I've already pulled the cab and bed off, sand blasted and coated the chassis, replaced all body/frame bushings. There's zero rust on this truck. It just really runs like crap, rough idle at startup, pisses fuel like a fraternity brother at the end of a long night. Truck is very sluggish until she's really warmed up, and I mean slower than a snail (exaggerating) but you get the point. I'll take your advice and try to work out some kind of a deal. Thank you for the advice!
That's hard work man. You should be able to handle the fuel system hpop and injectors. Might as well do the cups too since you're gonna be elbow deep. Lots of stuff sounds or looks scary until you get in it.
Get a factory repair manual read it and get comfortable. If you were in so cal near me I would come give you a hand.

Have they actually told you how they came to the conclusion you need all that work? If you have a weak hpop the injectors aren't gonna fire right. So you could have a bad hpop but injectors could be good. Or maybe the cracked fuel lines are sucking air making it run funky.
Did they do any tests on the truck and what were the tests performed and the readings or just pulled the diog out of their butts. I would ask how they figured all these things are bad.

Good luck. I hope you get it fixed for a reasonable price
 
  #17  
Old 12-12-2015, 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by BogginDave
Ok, so let's just say for the sake of being positive that my injectors are fine, and the hpop is fine. Besides my fuel leak, what would cause my truck to romp at startup, smoke while in reverse, have surging issues (best way I can describe it), be slow until she's warmed up, and shake at idle? All these things concern me. I'm just not ready to give up on my truck but I definitely don't want to sell myself short either. If all those parts are ok, what else "could" be the issue(s)?

These trucks really aren't mechanically complicated; if you can read and watch youtube ect ect you CAN fix the truck yourself, now I myself am slightly daunted by the electrical system but seeing as how your still actually running and driving give it a shot.. Start with a simple fuel bowl rebuild; it'll be confidence inspiring and give you a little momentum or do it in conjunction w the hpop IF its bad. You can do it.. Also, something I'm not understanding is, yes 5k is steep but why are you looking at Rosewoods and hotrod hpops? You can do the repairs more cost affectively..
 
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Old 12-12-2015, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 2001F350dualwheel
That's hard work man. You should be able to handle the fuel system hpop and injectors. Might as well do the cups too since you're gonna be elbow deep. Lots of stuff sounds or looks scary until you get in it.
Get a factory repair manual read it and get comfortable. If you were in so cal near me I would come give you a hand.

Have they actually told you how they came to the conclusion you need all that work? If you have a weak hpop the injectors aren't gonna fire right. So you could have a bad hpop but injectors could be good. Or maybe the cracked fuel lines are sucking air making it run funky.
Did they do any tests on the truck and what were the tests performed and the readings or just pulled the diog out of their butts. I would ask how they figured all these things are bad.

Good luck. I hope you get it fixed for a reasonable price
I honestly think they pulled the diagnostics out of their butts. They said they pulled the covers, and checked the solenoids, then performed a flow test on each injector. I don't really believe him. I'm going to try and work on my truck, you guys are giving me the hard push I need to fix my truck on my own. Thanks!
 
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Old 12-12-2015, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by coreyallan01
These trucks really aren't mechanically complicated; if you can read and watch youtube ect ect you CAN fix the truck yourself, now I myself am slightly daunted by the electrical system but seeing as how your still actually running and driving give it a shot.. Start with a simple fuel bowl rebuild; it'll be confidence inspiring and give you a little momentum or do it in conjunction w the hpop IF its bad. You can do it.. Also, something I'm not understanding is, yes 5k is steep but why are you looking at Rosewoods and hotrod hpops? You can do the repairs more cost affectively..
I just want more power than stock. If all goes well I want to intercool the engine, get a bigger turbo, install a built transmission, and chip her. I just want to have a truck that has the pick me up I want
 
  #20  
Old 12-12-2015, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by z31freakify
Dont be intimidated on working on your truck, we all started from not knowing anything like you for example you learned how to install a brick walls and what not, same concept in a vehicle.
As I mentioned earlier with our guidance you will be one with your truck and know what true love is i mean know your way around the 7.3 and wont have to deal with pesky mechanics. As for your injectors maybe the leaky fuel bowl has something to do with the injectors acting up (air in the fuel system) Just lets us know brother were here to help your in the OBS brethren now
You're absolutely right! Maybe I'll start by fixing the fuel leak? What kind of tools should I have handy? And should I replace the blue lines with oem Ford parts?
 
  #21  
Old 12-12-2015, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BogginDave
You're absolutely right! Maybe I'll start by fixing the fuel leak? What kind of tools should I have handy? And should I replace the blue lines with oem Ford parts?

The blue lines are actually good, well, when their new.. Check out the fuel system parts here... Ford - 94-97 'OBS' 7.3L - Fuel System & Related - Fuel System O-rings, Sleeves & Hoses - Riffraff Diesel Performance
Also, if you can get your hands on a E-version or physical oem manual that really helps.
 
  #22  
Old 12-12-2015, 10:49 PM
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set of flare nut wrenches
socket set
Extensions
Ratchets.
Pliers
Needle nose
Screwdrivers Phillips/flathead
Back then they used metric and SAE bolts.
There is a special tool you can rent to do the cups if you're gonna do them. You don't need Mac tools or Snap On. I use Husky or Craftsman, my truck tool box is full of HF wrenches sockets and ratchets. Simply road tools. If I lose a socket it's 2 bucks for another one.I would look on YouTube on a how to. It's a good idea to buy a good repair manual.

Here is a schematic of the basic workings. ALL the workings need to be checked for function. Unless the shop can tell you exactly the test they did and HOW they came to the conclusion of all these items being bad (ALL at once conveniently) i wouldn't trust them and pretty much assume they are just throwing parts at it.
It could be as simple as a loose ground or dirty connection maybe a weak cam sensor





 
  #23  
Old 12-12-2015, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by BogginDave
I honestly think they pulled the diagnostics out of their butts. They said they pulled the covers, and checked the solenoids, then performed a flow test on each injector. I don't really believe him. I'm going to try and work on my truck, you guys are giving me the hard push I need to fix my truck on my own. Thanks!
I wouldn't believe them either. In order to do a flow test the injectors would have had to come out. Then find someone that has the setup to test them which is rare. 2 years ago I pulled the motor out of my truck. Last December I put it back in. I did a complete rebuild on the motor plus everything in my sig. I am not a mechanic but with some help from this forum and a friend I pulled off my first rebuild ever. Everything else looks like child's play lol. It's not complicated, just overwhelming
 
  #24  
Old 12-13-2015, 07:53 AM
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Um, ok. You definitely do NOT need to do the cups. That's putting the cart way before the horse. If you do like most of these guys said, you can do the work yourself. The best advice here is this. Read the tech folders. There are many good write-ups on doing injectors. Watch Youtube as well. There are a few good how-to vids on the 7.3 and all of the work that you are being told needs to be done, though I highly doubt as well that you need all of that at 94K miles. Cups are not an easy task and the tool itself costs a good amount, unless you rent it. If your cups are bad at that mileage, you have more serious problems, but again, I'd bet my truck they are fine.

Also, from what I understand, don't bother getting a manual. They are not near as comprehensive and too generalized for our trucks. The tech folders and Youtube will tell you much more concerning the 7.3 and the OBS. I'd very strongly encourage you to do the work yourself. These engines and the systems are really pretty simple. I knew NOTHING when I got my truck, but 2.5 years later, you can look at my sig and see all the stuff that was done by me with the help of the brethren on here. I even traveled to a buddy's house and got help with my injectors just to make sure it was done right, but I'd have zero problem now doing it myself. And when I say "help", I did one side and he did the other. I would just check with him along the way so I didn't pull a newbie move.

So yes, do it yourself. You will be stoked when it's done and we will help in any way we can. Start with the fuel bowl. I did and it gave me a world of confidence.
 
  #25  
Old 12-13-2015, 08:08 AM
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I think before you do anything other than fix the fuel leak, we need to know again exactly what the symptoms are. You mentioned a shaky idle and a surging. Need to do a few simple tests before you go all out and start pulling injectors and HPOP and all that out of a 94,000 mile truck!! Especially the injector cups for goodness sake! Get the fuel leak fixed, and let's just go from there and start at the beginning with the basics.
 
  #26  
Old 12-13-2015, 08:24 AM
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As others have said, fix the fuel leak first, it could be the cause of the other issues.
 
  #27  
Old 12-13-2015, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ReBilld
I think before you do anything other than fix the fuel leak, we need to know again exactly what the symptoms are. You mentioned a shaky idle and a surging. Need to do a few simple tests before you go all out and start pulling injectors and HPOP and all that out of a 94,000 mile truck!! Especially the injector cups for goodness sake! Get the fuel leak fixed, and let's just go from there and start at the beginning with the basics.
Just for my own memory; does using the wrong coolant compromise the injector cups?
 
  #28  
Old 12-13-2015, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by ReBilld
I think before you do anything other than fix the fuel leak, we need to know again exactly what the symptoms are. You mentioned a shaky idle and a surging. Need to do a few simple tests before you go all out and start pulling injectors and HPOP and all that out of a 94,000 mile truck!! Especially the injector cups for goodness sake! Get the fuel leak fixed, and let's just go from there and start at the beginning with the basics.
You said what I was trying to say much better! LOL!!!


Originally Posted by coreyallan01
Just for my own memory; does using the wrong coolant compromise the injector cups?
I read a few reports on this and the short answer is yes, it can corrode and begin to eat away at the brass, but it takes awhile, not 94k miles.
 
  #29  
Old 12-13-2015, 09:24 AM
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If its your daily driver then that complicates things. Rent, borrow or steal another ride and do it yourself. The attitude I take are two things: if you screw something up we can help or you were going to take it to this guy anyway and I also pretend I'm working on Mt. Rushmore, one chip at a time. Don't get in a hurry, take pictures and we can help. These guys are great, they have gotten me out of a lot of jams!
 
  #30  
Old 12-13-2015, 09:59 AM
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Where in the bay area are you and what shop is trying to extort you like this. Seems like they are not sure what to do and want to do everything. I would do this stuff myself if needed. Take it slow and save your money for upgrades.I know a shop that can deal with flow testing but your injectors could be fine. I am in Sonoma btw.
 


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