got the 9" stripped down and for the most part sanded .
next up is plasma cutting off the perches and shock mounts and relocating to the Bump measurements . perches are easy as the inner measurement perch to perch (78) was 42.25 which is the outer dimension for the bump perch to perch .

 

Any one have any tricks for getting the bolt loose for the Radius arm to I beam ?
I've tried everything but Heat so far .

 

Penetrating oil, a 1-1/8" boxed end wrench, a 6-point 1-1/8" socket, ratchet, a long cheater pipe and a lot of grunt.

If you can get a wire brush to the bolt threads that are sticking out, get as much dirt off of them that you can. This will help make it easier to turn the nuts, once they are broken loose. --there are two of these prevailing torque lock nuts on each side.

 

looking good.

I like the fan tower too.

 

thanks ultraranger
gonna have to keep trying
got the front brake shields stripped , need to weld a couple cracks by the mount bolt holes , then they are ready for self etching primer .

 

You're now seeing a lot of the reason why I and HIO Silver have said that if someone is wanting to install a '75-'79 Dentside factory front sway bar, along with converting to front discs, you need to have the sway bar assembly now. To find one and go to put it on later means having to do this all over again, in ordrer to get the C-Brackets onto the I-beam/radius arms for the endlinks.

 

thanks again , For now I am just taking the front end apart for cleaning and Painting . Front Discs won't be installed till after the Rearend goes in .
I ran into a problem , Guy that has the donor truck is off his meds or something , wanted me to cut up the Truck with a torch to get Brake booster bracket . I told him to KMA so i'll have to find that bracket to move forward , or can i use like a 1970 front discs booster/master cylinder ? then i wouldn't need the bracket .

 

Bell crank style booster brackets are different from non-bell crank brackets.


.....a torch??????? There are (4) bolts that attaches the brackets to the firewall --2 on each side. I guess the guy thought Ford welded the brackets to the firewall (?). --or, like you were implying, he's let the coo coo out of the clock.

 

He wanted me to cut up the rest of truck with a torch , in exchange for getting the Bracket I left behind .

 

I have the same style bell crank booster in my stash of spare parts.



I was bead blasting the bracketry, got them primed and sprayed a top coat of Ford Semi Gloss black on them.





The primer went on fine but, it rained early this morning and there's a lot of humidity in the air today. The Semi Gloss Black blushed and turned into a milky, muddled gray. Now, everything that was painted black will have to be resprayed after the humidity level drops.



The bell crank components at various stages of being cleaned and refinished.



There were various boosters and bracket configurations, with most of the variations being in the Dentside applications.

These are three primary booster bracket styles that were used. The one on the far left is the most common (it's like the brackets that are on the dual diaphragm booster I have in my truck). The bracket in the middle is for the bell crank style booster. The bracket on the far right seems to be less common (I believe it was used on the '78/'79 models with a revised brake pedal ratio) and puts the booster at more of an upward angle when mounted up.



A non-bell crank style booster (single diaphragm or dual diaphragm) will require a hard plastic boot that goes between the firewall and the back of the booster. This will be a donor vehicle part since I don't know of anyone reproducing the hard plastic boot.

Small diameter single diaphragm booster with the plastic boot.


Dual diaphragm booster, brackets and plastic boot.


Booster brackets and the plastic boot for a non-bell crank booster.

 

So is there any reason why I can't use a 1970 Disc brake booster /master cylinder ?
This would be more like my original 68 set up right ?

 

There's no reason you couldn't use a '68-'72 booster assembly.

This is just from my point of perspective: (left to right), I have a small diameter single diaphragm booster from a '68 F250, a small diameter single diaphragm booster from a '73 F100/F150, (2) dual diaphragm boosters from '74 model F350s and a large diameter single diaphragm bell crank booster from a '78/'79 F150.





I could have installed any one of these boosters in my truck. I went with the F350 dual diaphragm booster because it's the most powerful of all these boosters shown. If I was going to go to the trouble of installing power brakes, I was going to use a booster that had a lot of oomph behind it. --I was going to install a BOOSTER, know what I mean, Vern?

The donor dual diaphragm booster, brackets, boot for my truck actually came from a '75 F350. I turned the booster in as a core on a newly rebuilt unit (O'Reilly 54-73112). BrakeBest Brakes 54-73112 - Power Brake Booster | O'Reilly Auto Parts

The '75 F350 booster input rod was a direct connection to my '69 F100 brake pedal.
I installed the booster (2012) about a year after I bought the truck --I was still running 4-wheel drums when I put the F350 booster on and I was running a new, conventional cast iron MC then. (ugly factory lines ....I knew that I would definitely be redoing the lines at a future date).


When I converted to front discs last year (nearly 3 years after installing the booster), I pitched the cast iron MC for a modern one that doesn't rust on the inside (or outside) and doesn't pollute the brake system and plumbing with rust scale and debris. (Shown here, in the process of fabbing up the brake lines for the new MC and the newly added disc brake setup).

 

just ordered my New spring perch's
only ones I could find that matched original specs of 3.25" tube and 2.25"pad width
Currie p/n CE-7000b they also have a CE-7000bx (boxed) but i couldn't find anyone that had them in stock .

 

Leaf Spring Perches - 3.250 in. Axle Tube Diameter (in) - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
Looks like 3.00 inch is the most popular size and cheaper.

 

Instead of a power brake booster, how about going with a hydroboost setup? AWD Astros are a good source... made by Bosch for Ford and GM applications so technically, it's not mixing and matching brands... just like Dana axles amongst all the brands.

Booster: $40
16mm and 18mm to -6 AN fittings: $35
Hose: $40
... and ya don't have to mess with booster brackets, pushrod length, etc.