When I did the rear sway bar, instructions were to be parallel to the ground. My front sway bar is not parallel to the ground, it's nose down. Does this make a difference? Is this a sign I need new end links? I do have a "thunk" which I assume are the bushings (althought they look perfectly fine and no play) but could this also be problematic?

 

How about some pics ?

What changed that made your sway bar different then stock ?

As far as the clunk, yes a clunk is usually a sign something is amiss. Best to find it and fix it. Could be anything from a shock to body mount.

 

The 4x4's usually wear out sway bar end links faster and the RWD's usually wear out sway bar bushings faster. Its not a bad idea to do both at the same time, thats what I usually do just for extra insurance.

 

As requested.




Front sway bar not level

 

This was on the truck when I got it, I do not know if it's stock or a replcement. It does not sit level and I don't know if that's a problem or not. The end links are not adjustable.

 

Can you grab the swaybar itself with 2 hands and move it left to right?

 

Not even a little bit. (just went out and tried). Where it attaches on the bar to the D shaped bushing you can see it has moved but I can not physically move it.

 

"Usually" if you can move it side to side its time for new bushings. Your endlinks "might" be toast if there is clunking. Its usually one or the other, or both. I had same scenario but it was my swaybar bushings and it was easy to see.

But really cheap/easy to change them anyway if you want to eliminate that as a possibility.

 

Mine looks very similar to yours, nothing looks wrong. Mine sits just a bit more level, probably because I have v-codes and it sits up a little bit higher I would assume?

 

Looks normal to me. Parallel to the ground side to side.... If you have a clunk, try loosening the bolts going to then frame holding the bracket and the stud going through the bracket. Tighten the stud first, then the two bolts going to the frame after that. Mine clunked after putting in new parts. It seemed to put things in a bind doing like I stated and I have no more clunk.

The biggest problem you should check for is making sure the oil pan has no scuffs on it. Some people make an interference with the pan and make a hole.....bad.

 

Or just remove the sway bar all together and take it for a quick test drive to see if it still makes the same noise, that is the easiest way to find out if the sway bar bushings or end links are even the source of the sound.

 

Here is where you can see some left to right movement.

Thanks for all the great advise. Reps a coming...

 

To verify that your clunking is coming from the sway bar you can disconnect the lower link to bar bolts on each side and then take it for a test drive with the ends wired up to keep them from dropping down, if your clunking is gone it's time for new/rebuilt links and new bushings, easy job.
I think nearly all stock 4X4 EXs have the same slightly downward angle on the ends of the front bar due to the 2" shorter (than Super Duty) front springs. Like was said above by 03EX V codes or other heavier/taller SD springs will set it more to level. With my modded X codes (+3 7/8" over stock) my front bar ends are slightly angled up.



As far as the sway bar to oil pan interference (which WILL crush the pan and eventually cause an oil leak) you MUST make sure that the front sway bar is installed with the center section (between the bushings) drooped down vs up. If you look at the above pictures you can imagine how with that bar flipped with the center offset sticking up how it would hit the pan. There have been a few members here that have had that happen following sway bar links/bushing replacement when the bar was installed upside down. If you have a shop do the work be sure to look under the truck to verify the correct position before driving away, it's an easy mistake to make as everything will connect either way.

 

Future reference, that's called the pillow block.

My end links were shot and I could shift the swaybar easily by hand side to side. New links and 45 minutes, no more movement and no more gawdawful rattling clunking madness.

Sometimes the bushings and joints can be bad, but the tension kept on things from the swaybar can be just enough to not exhibit signs when checked by hand. Mine were so toast that you could twist them back and forth quite easily.

 

I'd say you might need new front springs, jmo.